see funny thing is it wont make a difference
because the air box before would bring in the same cold air
reason ur wasting ur time is
the pipe that comes from the throttle body that goes 2 the airflow meter which goes 2 the pod the pipe that comes from throttle body is restricting the flow

4/5 of bugger all
but you get to hear that induction roar at WOT
sounds great up around 6500rpm

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/378/file0109.jpg
is there a reason for this piece to be siliconed in?

The black D shaped plastic on the airflow meter is sealed to protect it from moisture and dust. I don't know about Tasmania but in Vic it can cost you $10,000 if you fiddle with it or even just remove the cover.

it just seals the wires and circuit board from water
:plol i have my seal off the d pieces of plastic when i fixed the afm;)

No don't remove that, it is a resonance chamber, it will have a detrimental effect on the way the engine operates and may even lose power

Go to Autobahn or Repco etc. get one of those alloy 90deg elbow sections(I had an 80mm elbow left over from a turbo install on my Landcruiser that I had made at an exhaust shop), and a couple of the silicon/rubber connector hoses and some hose clamps (to connect the elbow to the AFM and Pod)
Below the air box is a big empty space.
Remove the airbox and the cold air intake tube that runs into this space. I took the black cold air intake tube and cut the it at the bottom in the centre of the "U" section and re fitted it(it's tight but it will fit down beside the pod) this will get you cold air into where the pod is
Fit the elbow to the pod, drop it into that space and then fit the elbow to the AFM.

All you need to do then is tie the AFM to something to stop it rattling or moving about(I used cable ties)
I then cut a piece of rubber sheet to fit around the elbow and cover the space where the pod sits

I know I'm bring back an old thread, but I fitted a pod into my BG yesterday and I just cut some of that piping going to the thottle body and the main section, I only cut about 3cm of each give or take a few cm's then just reconnected everything like normal and there was just enough space for the pod to fit if you put the pod in then connect the AFM to the pod, it does work quite nicly

how does it sound now? and hows the fuel consumption?

sounds good when your next to it, but when driving cant really hear it because my exhust is quite loud, as for fuel it depens what I run 91 or 95, put $50 of 91 in yesterday and drove like a good 100km and it went down to half from just below 3/4, when running 95 it last a whole lot long can probs. do a good 150km and it'll be at half from the same point...

I also relised my Revs have gone down about 400RPS doing 100km/h

Not unless you you change a gear ratio in the trans.

well yea... but sitting in 5th gear and doing 100km/h it use to sit on 3500RPS and now sits on about 3100RPS

I got a pod on my SP20... Sounds awesome :D although i have noticed it rev harder at higher Rpm but has lost a lil torque down low compared to the stock air filter. i still get 500k's per tank which is funny cause i drive it a lil harder so i can hear the pod LOL

500 Is that elusive number for me. Never been there in mine lol. Get halfway being economical then drive hard for 20kms and its gone haha. 480Is the best I've done without pure highway...

best ive done is 540 and man the needle was so far in the red i was worried id make it out of the driveway LOL

For those having trouble with pod filter adapters... the pod filter adapter (Part number 9007) actually won't work on the BG, so you'll either need to make a rubber gasket (Which I'm doing, got a cardboard gasket right now) to cover up the gap or use a pod filter adapter for the VL Commodore. It'll save you $20. Also do not forget to get the clamp... Zip Ties only hold for so long...