1992-2000 2.0lt 626 +sp20
 

guys i have been doing alot off snooping an have discovered that the 2.0lt in the 626 is the same fs block that our sp20's run
now the only thing that i can see that my 1994 626 block dont have that ours do, is the thread in the block for the knock sencer to screw into , but later ones mite have it , also the head take a dizzy where as ours have a cam sencer and a crank sencer instead off a dizzy

I think it's kinda like the BP engine is found in both the 'stina and the Mx-5. Two very differend applications.
Early BP engines had holes near the back of the block drilled, tapped and stopped with bolts, on the newer engines these holes are only drilled and tapped for turbo models (oil and water feeds) if mazda can avoid some machineing on 10,000 blocks then they save money.
It would probably be cheaper to use a 626 block than an Astina SP20 block although they are the same. Ask your engine tuner if your ECU could use the knock sensor, it may save a repeat of your recent woes.

the sp20 block had the knock sensor in it , didnt make jack difference to the rod destroying but
an your rite 626 blocks are everywhere but sp20 motors are still rare for now , so that makes a big price difference to buying a motor

the reason im passing on this info is because there may be people out there that want to work over a block to make it go like hell an be bullet proof and this is a cheap way to start

from what i can gather the block itself is the same (appart from the knock sensor part), but everything else is different. different head etc

OK did I miss the a string somewhere. Rod did you blow up your motor ???
I thought this was a safe as low boost setup ???

Mal -> http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5359

yes mal i did too but guess what no so was only on 4psi so i guess i had sum other problem inside maybe , i want no till i strip it down an have a good look ,i suspect i may have had a fatigued rod, as at only 4pound even the standard rods should have stood up to that

If the SP20 blocks do have a knock sensor, what the hell is it doing?? If I run mine on anything lower than 98 RON fuel on a hot day it sounds like I am shaking a tin can full of marbles around. Is the knock senseor only dropping the timing or is it doing anything at all??

if you do rebuild an old 626 block, will you have trouble getting a modplate or anything for it coz its an older engine than the car it is going into? or coz its nearly the same itll be a bit easier?

It's still an FS block. With any luck next year I hope to start building an FE3, essentialy it's still an FE so I hope it goes under the Vic Roads radar :rolleyes: and is considered a one for one swap.

KIA-YO

:P

awesome plates

If the SP20 blocks do have a knock sensor, what the hell is it doing?? If I run mine on anything lower than 98 RON fuel on a hot day it sounds like I am shaking a tin can full of marbles around. Is the knock senseor only dropping the timing or is it doing anything at all??

to be honest im not sure what it does , but i no i had run my sp20 on unleaded an never herd it carry on like your discribing
our motors have a cam sensor , a crank sensor , an a knock sensor so im thinking if your motor does what u say maybe its not tuned rite

also the mx 6 92 model up is running the 2.0lt block in sum models
so this is good valuable info for us 2.0lt owners , we are able to sorce a block from either a 626 , mx6 , or sp20 , as they are all 2.0lt running 83mm bore and 92 stroke now if you want to go 20thou oversize it will be 83.50mm x 92 stroke now im currently sorcing forge pistons an billet rods hopefully cheaper then s in oz tbc
oh yer these pistons an rods are tested up too 42psi of pressure

The first gen Mx-6 twin cams were an FE3, all but 26 were NA. Yes that is twenty six and no zeros. The GD and GE 626 were also FE3 I think. The big difference will be the head and accessories.
You now have me thinking.... damn.....

yer thats rite i havent said anything about heads or acc just the 2.0lt block fs
i no about the fe ect but im only talking about the ones conpatable with our sp20 2.0lt block so as if anyone needs 1 or wants to build something up an keep there own block they have a chioce
most would probly think as i did myself i have to find a wreck sp20 but our options are far greater, heads n the ones i looked at but the bolt pattern is the same , so as in my case its simply build a strong bottom end out of this block then put all my gear on , engine mounts , drive sharfts an mounts , alt , starter , air con , power steer mountings all the same

Wow if only you could go FE3 bottom have seen some mad piston and rod combo's for the FE3 using Chev rods and the like. The mind wanders ......

fe3 = sweet. best piston engine mazda made

i have not seen the fe maybe i should they could be the same too
rod the one you r talking about is the turbo one yer also wasnt it a 2.2
mal im in the process off sourcing forge pistons an billett rods that run 9.0c/r and are test to with stand 42psi not that im going to run anything like that
just thinking it will be bullet proof at 8 - 12 psi

Na,
The 2.2 turbo is a SOHC 12 valve F2 motor.
It's a very rare FE3 turbo made only for sport racing in Japan. It exists but is too rare to think that you will ever get one (If you wanted one (which you don't ;) )).

well not now as i have a block to play with