The numbers I mentioned in my previous post are a little more then what an FP will safely do day in day out. This is because a FP rod is 129.9mm long and a BP rod is 132mm long thus the rod ratio is better on a BP then a FP and can handle a few hundred rpm more then a FP :)

@Cookie, a forged rod won't stretch like a stock rod and will handle the loads better etc. You will still however run into issues with piston speed. But failure due to piston acceleration or side loads etc wont be an issue till much later.

Depending on you view and expectations from the motor depends how high you can go really. If you want the engine to last, you wont exceed the maximum you would on a stock rod. The extra strength being there for longevity. i.e. FS engine literally starts to fly apart around 7400 rpm (It will rev that high but not for long, the loads and forces are pretty stupid), with aftermarket forged rods max rpm for safety would be 7400-7500. Even though the extra strength means you might be able to handle 7600 or 7700.

If you use longer rods, i.e. push the wrist pin further up the piston you can extend your rev limit safely. e.g. on my engine ~7600-7700 is where about safe would end if a stock rod of same length was used. As I want the engine to last a while my rev limit is set for 7800. Kinda moot really given my peak power was over 1000rpm ago but *shrug*

At this stage im running 256 cams so I'd run out of legs before 8k rpm.
It looks like you'd need to go to a smaller base circle to go big, or machine the head for clearance? 270something and 10mm lift would be nice..

7,600rpm is safe limt for BP, will still go higher tho. cams wont breathe above that anywayz.

There's something on the....
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1798

AAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!

How well does that wall handle with the cusco brace fitted?

Haha! handlles like its stuck to ground. The brace would make a cool towel rack?

http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1811

One slight hiccup, I forgot to order new stem seals.

edit: The supertech spring seats fit over the stem seals so no need for new ones

I've just finished wiring my alternator plug. I'm using an internal regulated 65amp unit from an early mx5. The plug was labeled S and L and I ran the L terminal up to the charge light in the dash, the S terminal to the main distrbution post on the fuse panel.
That is correct isn't it? L is charge lamp circuit/low alt output sense, and the S terminal is the voltage sensing circuit?

Yer man thats right hey :)

http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1822

while the head has been off I have been neatening up all of this stuff.
The clutch reservoir is a billet ring bros. item ,sitting low in its bracket, you can see what im planning here. I'd need to plug the original barb on the brake reservoir there. The problem was the clutch res. line swept around the booster and gets too close to the sausage filter so I've tried to thread it straight up over the booster and fit the custom res. there. I need a 45* barb fitting to make it work.

The alt. mount is a small block chev kit that I got for cheap and hacked up to suit.
I might need a check valve in the booster line there and the whole thing might need to be reconfigured yet if I decide to run a map sensor too.
keeping at it guys.

Most of the wiring is complete. Thankfully nothing went up in flames, only a couple of plugs in the engine bay and it will be ready to start calibrating sensors and stuff.

Sorted the injector port plugs after having another set machined to fit.
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1856

The engine is wired save for the crank sensor. Its from a later astina/lazer and has blue/brown/pink wires. I need to know which color wire is 12v+, ground and signal. Testing resistance(2000k range) across wires yielded these results:
Brown/blue =265k
Pink/blue =1093k
Brown/pink =293 .

.....bloody trick or treaters....

Where was I? Oh right. Can anyone help with which wire is which?
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1857

So close to running...got to pull my finger out!

Do you remember what model?

BJ had a crank sensor. Will take a look when I get to work :)

It seems to be the blue wire is signal, pink is 12v+ as the crank trigger is giving regular pulses to the 440. The reset signal on the cam is a wide tooth so a little hard to accurately dial in.
I ended up marking the crank pulley in 10* increments and when the trigger flags flashed on the f11 window in wari, I then just adjusted the cam sensor (by turning cas body) as close as I could. Still working on trigger setup.
This bit will make me sound dumb (so whats new!), I couldn't figure why the cranking rpm was so low and the main circuit breaker kept tripping until I realised my 'ghetto' rigged battery was feeding the cranking amps through the c.breaker not going straight to starter!! I was supposed to be feeding one cable to c.breaker (for main panel) and one straight to starter but yeah got that part figured now....my stupid broken body keeps intervening and saying no to working on car.

wow man that looks so good :)

where did u get the loom sock from???

Cheers man. Looking forward to parking it next to your hardtop for some photos.:cool:
The loom tube is from jaycar, called pps expandable braided sleeving. Part no.s# WH-5588 for 15mm and # WH-5587 for 10mm, WH-5585 for 6mm.
It's a bugger to work with but comes up neat and provides a heat/abrasion resistant shield to your wiring too.;)

MAD thanks man.. i'll get some today.


and yes one day when they are done :)

also are those -8 fittings on ur rocker cover???