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ghetto3 01-02-2014 01:12 PM

awww, c'mon! Wheres the love?

ghetto3 01-02-2014 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hammo (Post 332536)

Aaahhh, there it is!

Rupewrecht 01-02-2014 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghetto3 (Post 332537)
awww, c'mon! Wheres the love?

No love, when Mazda versions are easier to find :p

ghetto3 01-02-2014 01:52 PM

http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1676

SCREW YOU GUYS. Im goin' home.;)

Rupewrecht 01-02-2014 02:05 PM

LOL. I have a nice custom MX5 one that i made that you should use instead :p

TheMAN 01-02-2014 03:34 PM

seriously, I'm curious... the toyota COPs seems to fit perfect?

ghetto3 01-02-2014 07:25 PM

Yeah, lengthwise they are perfect fit, i had to remove a little bit of alloy to seat the grommets flush on top of the cover though.

Humor me with a pic rupe?

TheMAN 01-02-2014 09:19 PM

what year kia and car?

ghetto3 01-02-2014 09:22 PM

95 ford laser lynx;)

Rupewrecht 01-02-2014 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghetto3 (Post 332546)
Humor me with a pic rupe?

Can't seem to find a finished version...but it is finished since the link below, just needs paint IIRC.

Dev pics here though to give you an idea.
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showt...t=13777&page=9

ghetto3 02-02-2014 01:33 AM

They both are temping, i'll hunt for a mazda cover just to please you puritans soon enough:cool:

Anyone know if i can use an s3 fbox starter on a gbox? They fit but the gbox one is 'uuuuge.

TheMAN 02-02-2014 08:25 AM

yes it fits and is stronger

ghetto3 04-02-2014 07:01 PM

Wiring is progressing, im still trying to find accurate cop wiring. Miataturbo site directly conflicts with andy from adaptronic. Who do i believe? One lists cop pin wiring as ground,trigger,tach,12v+. The other reversed.
Need to find an internal reg. alternator and crank pulley bolt, woodruff key and bottom cam sprocket, on a roadtrip south in a couple of days so i will be taking every opportunity to hunt. Lets hope i don't need to go all the way to Dural (mx5mania).

ghetto3 05-02-2014 05:18 PM

Got my trackspeed engineering 12/1 crank trigger wheel turning up soon and chasing up an mx5 cas to chop up for a home signal. Still going crazy researching...you gotta start somewhere.

Mad Mat 05-02-2014 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghetto3 (Post 332662)
Got my trackspeed engineering 12/1 crank trigger wheel turning up soon and chasing up an mx5 cas to chop up for a home signal. Still going crazy researching...you gotta start somewhere.

Why only 12/1 why didnt u get a zm-de 36:1 off mazda??

ghetto3 05-02-2014 06:31 PM

Plug and play product that i could order then, there.
I was considering others but this one bolts straight on, uses original mx5 sensor and has quite enough resolution to do a better job than stock gear. Also it could get to me quick.

I just love finding the hard way to do things.

ghetto3 08-02-2014 11:55 AM

http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1677

This is turning into a dogs breaky.
Aaah i'll cover it with loom tube and keep an extingiusher handy!

TheMAN 08-02-2014 01:33 PM

so, no more A/C?

ghetto3 08-02-2014 01:40 PM

Nah, it's gone. Only the blower for the front screen.
Have to get busy with the fibreglass to connect it up to the screen ducts. My dash vents are all filled now too.

ghetto3 09-02-2014 03:57 PM

I'd be happy if i never saw another wire again.
Got my headlights/parkers etc all working, indicators, ignition circuit and other stuff.
Looking at doing it all over again with a Painless universal kit when i have more time. I can get it to work with some reliability but making it look neat is another matter entirely.

TheMAN 09-02-2014 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghetto3 (Post 332741)
Nah, it's gone. Only the blower for the front screen.
Have to get busy with the fibreglass to connect it up to the screen ducts. My dash vents are all filled now too.

you might be able to buy the factory non-aircon duct? much easier than making one ;)

Mad Mat 12-02-2014 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMAN (Post 332759)
you might be able to buy the factory non-aircon duct? much easier than making one ;)

they have such a thing???? if so i would be keen too.

ghetto3 12-02-2014 08:35 AM

You can get them on euro' models, not sure over here but it'd require the big centre section of the hvac box to stay in situ.
I'm using only the blower part.
Never played that much with fibreglass, looking forward to learning a new skill.
Idle mind---devils playground.

Rupewrecht 12-02-2014 09:05 AM

Why not just plug/cap the bits you don't need in the vents? Seems like a much simpler option.

project.r.racing 12-02-2014 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rupewrecht (Post 332826)
Why not just plug/cap the bits you don't need in the vents? Seems like a much simpler option.

what dan said.

or use some flexi pipes and clamps from blower box to vents.

ghetto3 12-02-2014 07:23 PM

use some flexi pipes and clamps from blower box to vents.[/QUOTE]

This pretty much. I'll try and make fibreglass couplings.;)

Id describe the car as pretty naked now, i'm stripping everything i can down and making it is basic as possible. I may lose intermittent wipers soon...

Think simple hotrod circuits, bare bones interior, just what you need to legally drive.
No wussy interior light.:D

When i filled the dash vents i removed all the cr#p behind, brackets, etc in the pile.
In previous photos you can see the filled vents and the blower fan box left of the ecu /fuse panel. Thats pretty much all that remains aside from the screen vent itself.

project.r.racing 12-02-2014 10:56 PM

That wussy interior light is a rwc requirement.

ghetto3 13-02-2014 08:23 AM

Thats why it has earnt that affection.
It was kind of tongue in cheek..

If you've got the s3 wiring diagrams you can chase my circuitry in the photos.
Its a mirror of the oem setup.Theres a Bus bar before 100a main, and after, for mounting auto reset circuit breakers. I've condensed ig.2 and accessories into one fuse panel etc.
Crucial circuits like headlights have c.breakers.

Have a squizz at the two fuse boxes and the color of the ignition switch wires that are powering them...blue/black and red/black iirc.---ign.1/1g.2.

ghetto3 15-02-2014 03:13 AM

http://www.astinagt.com/forums/pictu...pictureid=1681

Progress shot.

ghetto3 15-02-2014 05:05 PM

in that above shot I've hooked up the block/radiator to air separator lines back to front and neglected to hook up my oil/air separator lines too!
The wildwood clutch reservoir is just visible (not mounted yet) behind the mambo overflow bottle.
I got the engine timed up perfectly, my cas sensor and crank trigger wheel mounted and soon the whole setup with adaptronic begins. reading several different manuals from different ecu manufacturers has helped to have a better understanding of what needs to happen and why.

Mad Mat 17-02-2014 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghetto3 (Post 332897)
in that above shot I've hooked up the block/radiator to air separator lines back to front and neglected to hook up my oil/air separator lines too!
The wildwood clutch reservoir is just visible (not mounted yet) behind the mambo overflow bottle.
I got the engine timed up perfectly, my cas sensor and crank trigger wheel mounted and soon the whole setup with adaptronic begins. reading several different manuals from different ecu manufacturers has helped to have a better understanding of what needs to happen and why.

im very interested in how you are going to be able to change the trigger pattern from dizzy to CAS on the 440D. keep me posted :)

ghetto3 17-02-2014 09:58 AM

Im reading about 'nyehs' right now! This is the only part of the build where i'm struggling- the ecu conlfiguration.
I plan to use the two tooth wheel in the mx5 cam angle sensor as a reset signal and the 12 tooth (every 30*) wheel for ignition event. The trigger wheel has an extra tooth which i would remove.
Garanteed if/when i get it sorted i'll help you out.
The itb wire in hasn't been too hard, it relies on only a few sensors...cam/crank trigger, air/coolant temp, tps and thats about it. Compared to rewiring the car it is a breeze!

Mad Mat 17-02-2014 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghetto3 (Post 332937)
Im reading about 'nyehs' right now! This is the only part of the build where i'm struggling- the ecu conlfiguration.
I plan to use the two tooth wheel in the mx5 cam angle sensor as a reset signal and the 12 tooth (every 30*) wheel for ignition event. The trigger wheel has an extra tooth which i would remove.
Garanteed if/when i get it sorted i'll help you out.
The itb wire in hasn't been too hard, it relies on only a few sensors...cam/crank trigger, air/coolant temp, tps and thats about it. Compared to rewiring the car it is a breeze!

ow wow your using an mx5 CAS trigger nice. i have the 36-1 wheel on my car and i have been told i can get away with just using that. will be interesting to see haha.

ghetto3 17-02-2014 10:09 AM

I was hedging my bet so to speak by grabbing the cas sensor.
I'm pretty sure you can use just the trigger wheel though.

ghetto3 21-02-2014 10:12 AM

The electric water pump hydro circuit has been tested and looks to be sweet. Also cranked engine over for 440 configuration. Much to do though.
Had an electric frypan of sorts under the engine with coolant sensor dangling down immersed in 125*c oil to do a temperature sweep for 440 to learn the resistance values.
Was definately an unnerving experience given the precarious setting.

ghetto3 04-03-2014 08:56 AM

Still hard at it. Though it has been more of a forced chore than a pastime of late.
I went back to the orig. brake/clutch reservoir as i couldn't find an adequate mounting point for the wilwood reservoir.
Been researching the whole cops/cas/trigger wheel thing and think i've got it sorted, still a good chance it'll be a 20G bonfire though.

Ice88 04-03-2014 10:21 AM

Feel free to post up your config/take a pic and I will see if I can help you work your way through it.

ghetto3 04-03-2014 03:54 PM

I'm playing with the setup wizard and triggering settings, still trying to find reliable information on my exact setup: 12+1 (or 12, or 12-1 by way of dremel) trigger wheel, cops, sequential ignition, direct fire coils, modified cas for reset signal.
Specifically which would be better option pertinant to trigger tooth specs (to dremel or not) which tooth to remove if need be and whether i'd need to clock the single tooth left in the cas to a specific angle in regard to trigger wheel.

Dang i miss carbys...well not really!
Your offer of assistance has kick started me again, thanks mate.

Ice88 04-03-2014 04:03 PM

Can you take a photo of the trigger wheel, and cas wheel pleasums?

Will moc it up sometime this week, see if our settings match.

ghetto3 04-03-2014 04:14 PM

Mounted in place? I haven't got the correct crank trigger sensor mounted as yet but can take shot of crank wheel and cas (opened up) sitting at tdc.
will this help? Theres a good chance the cas could be 180* out of sinc.
Or did you mean screen shots?


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