AstinaGT Forums - View Single Post - HOW TO: Installing Whiteline BA Astina suspension 'package'

deruss · 22-02-2005, 11:29 PM

About four months back I decided to do the full Whiteline handling package made famous in Hot4's magazine No 39 (Apr 98). I purchased all the parts suggested in that article and installed them myself, with a little help from others (okay, a _lot_ of help from others

).

Now that it's almost finished (camber bolts still to go), I wanted to write up my experiences to help out those who are thinking of doing the same.

I have virtually no mechanical experience or coordination, and relied on my brother-in-law to show me how to do stuff, supply tools, and to double check everything I did. But by the end of completing this project I felt confident enough to do the final strut entirely on my own. If you're keen to learn about your car's suspension, and develop some motor skills along the way, then this is a good project. But pay attention to details like replacing all nuts - get it wrong and it falls apart at 100kph, look out!

My car is a 1995 1.8L DOHC BA Astina, and the parts and procedure are for that model only. Other models, like the V6 hardtop have different parts, and probably slightly different procedures.

Keep in mind that I have written this from memory, several months after I began the project and I haven't bothered to double check any of this by looking at my car's suspension, so I'm sure there are plenty of mistakes, assumptions I've left out, and other boo-boos. I wish I had taken photos! I've tried to include as much detail about my experience as possible, because I think that would be more reassuring to people who are in my position - a total n00b when it comes to car modification. If you have corrections for this post, please PM me and I'll fix them up. If you have any specific questions because you are in the process of actually doing it, PM me and I'll be happy to help you out as best I can.

So here goes...

Parts and Prices
----------------

Some of the part numbers have changed since the Hot4's article was written. The shocks are Koni brand shocks, and I've listed the Koni part numbers.

HTML Code:

Part No.    Qty    Price(ea)  Description
-----------------------------------------
KCA412      2      82.90      Camber bolts
BMR53       1      183.00     Sway Bar - Rear
70069/70    1/1    169.00     'Control' Springs - Front / Rear (alternatively, 'Flatout' Springs 73106/79127)
1300211/311 1/1    428.00     Shocks - Front / Rear (Koni Part Nos: 86-2557/86-2558)
SPF1406-20  1      13.90      Sway Bar Bushes - Front

I purchased my parts from Meltow in Tullamarine, Victoria, who are the Whiteline recommended distributors for Melbourne, and the prices shown are the RRP prices given on my invoice. However, I forgot to buy two packs of camber bolts and when I went back they charged me $85 - guess the price went up in two weeks

I ended up paying $1400 for my first order, plus the $85 for the second pack of camber bolts, for a total of $1485. Due to a mixup in my order I waited roughly two months before I got my hands on the goods.

Additionally, you will need to have a wheel alignment done to dial in the new camber bolts to the desired settings. Full wheel alignments cost around $70. However, you can't safely drive your car with unadjusted camber bolts so you will want to install them and align them at the same time. But to have a workshop do this will cost upto $100 extra! You could avoid this extra cost by putting the bolts in yourself then crawling to the wheel alignment place, but I don't know about the safety of this - perhaps you could install the bolts yourself in the carpark of the wheel alignment shop

.

Why is installing the camber bolts so expensive? Well, I argued with a Beaurepairs guy about this because I assumed that they could install each bolt (which takes about 2-5 minutes each) while the wheel is off for the wheel alignment. So I figured they could do it for free, or at most $20 extra. However, this is not the case. The Beaurepairs guy told me that they cannot safely change the bolt while the car is mounted on the wheel alignment machine. Instead they would install the bolts as a seperate procedure - raising the car, removing the wheels, installing the bolts, and replacing the wheels.

Despite the extra work I think $100 is still over the top, so I'm going to install the bolts myself the day I take it in for wheel alignment - this should take me about half hour or so.

Note that the Koni shocks are called 'inserts' - that means you need to cut apart your original struts and insert the new shocker into the strut casing. Other branded shock absorbers may include the the full strut assembly, and would therfore be a full replacement and a much easier job. But where's the fun in that?

Some notes, and other useful things
-----------------------------------

- I had a LOT of help from brother-in-law, who is a mechanic and who took me through this procedure. You will almost certainly need a two people, with one person quite strong, particularly when installing the front springs.
- The words 'shock', 'shocker', and 'damper' all refer to the same thing - the new shock insert.
- Some other words I've made up to describe parts that I don't know the proper name, like 'stabiliser arm'. You'll know what I mea when you're looking at it.

- When undoing or doing up bolts where you have access to both sides (like the castor bolts), place a ring spanner on one side while you undo the other side. This will prevent bolt from spinning.
- We used an air-pressure rattle gun to do most of the bolts - I highly recomend the investment, it will save you some considerable time.
- I bought a trolley jack and two car stands for about $60 - well worth it.

Raising the car
---------------

If this is your first time using a trolley jack (as it was for me), familiarise yourself with the raising and lowering mechanism. The lowering release valve can be touchy - the first time I lowered the car I twisted too fast and the car dropped to the ground, narrowly missing my head! We had a laugh, but there was potential to damage the car (or my head!).

Before jacking up the car remember to place chocks behind the wheels on the opposite end of the car, and pull the handbrake. eg. When raising the back, place the chocks in front of both front wheels.

The whole backend can be raised by placing the jack in the centre of the car somwhere between the rear wheels. Once raised, place both stands under the car, one on each side slightly in front of the rear wheel. Avoid placing under the car's external chassis - find a strong point just inside the edge of the car. Remember to lower the jack so that the weight is on the stands.

The front end needs each corner lifted one at a time. There is a nice place to jack up with the trolley jack near the foot of the suspension. Again, place the car stands in a strong spot, slightly in from the chassis, and slightly behind the front wheels. When raising the second side, be mindful of the stand on the opposite side - it may slip a bit but that's okay so long is stays standing upright.

To lower the car, place the jack in the same spot, raise a little, remove the stands, then lower the car gently.

22-02-2005, 11:29 PM	#1
deruss Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Melbourne Car: 1994 BA Astina 1.8 Posts: 103	HOW TO: Installing Whiteline BA Astina suspension 'package' About four months back I decided to do the full Whiteline handling package made famous in Hot4's magazine No 39 (Apr 98). I purchased all the parts suggested in that article and installed them myself, with a little help from others (okay, a _lot_ of help from others ). Now that it's almost finished (camber bolts still to go), I wanted to write up my experiences to help out those who are thinking of doing the same. I have virtually no mechanical experience or coordination, and relied on my brother-in-law to show me how to do stuff, supply tools, and to double check everything I did. But by the end of completing this project I felt confident enough to do the final strut entirely on my own. If you're keen to learn about your car's suspension, and develop some motor skills along the way, then this is a good project. But pay attention to details like replacing all nuts - get it wrong and it falls apart at 100kph, look out! My car is a 1995 1.8L DOHC BA Astina, and the parts and procedure are for that model only. Other models, like the V6 hardtop have different parts, and probably slightly different procedures. Keep in mind that I have written this from memory, several months after I began the project and I haven't bothered to double check any of this by looking at my car's suspension, so I'm sure there are plenty of mistakes, assumptions I've left out, and other boo-boos. I wish I had taken photos! I've tried to include as much detail about my experience as possible, because I think that would be more reassuring to people who are in my position - a total n00b when it comes to car modification. If you have corrections for this post, please PM me and I'll fix them up. If you have any specific questions because you are in the process of actually doing it, PM me and I'll be happy to help you out as best I can. So here goes... Parts and Prices ---------------- Some of the part numbers have changed since the Hot4's article was written. The shocks are Koni brand shocks, and I've listed the Koni part numbers. HTML Code: Part No. Qty Price(ea) Description ----------------------------------------- KCA412 2 82.90 Camber bolts BMR53 1 183.00 Sway Bar - Rear 70069/70 1/1 169.00 'Control' Springs - Front / Rear (alternatively, 'Flatout' Springs 73106/79127) 1300211/311 1/1 428.00 Shocks - Front / Rear (Koni Part Nos: 86-2557/86-2558) SPF1406-20 1 13.90 Sway Bar Bushes - Front I purchased my parts from Meltow in Tullamarine, Victoria, who are the Whiteline recommended distributors for Melbourne, and the prices shown are the RRP prices given on my invoice. However, I forgot to buy two packs of camber bolts and when I went back they charged me $85 - guess the price went up in two weeks I ended up paying $1400 for my first order, plus the $85 for the second pack of camber bolts, for a total of $1485. Due to a mixup in my order I waited roughly two months before I got my hands on the goods. Additionally, you will need to have a wheel alignment done to dial in the new camber bolts to the desired settings. Full wheel alignments cost around $70. However, you can't safely drive your car with unadjusted camber bolts so you will want to install them and align them at the same time. But to have a workshop do this will cost upto $100 extra! You could avoid this extra cost by putting the bolts in yourself then crawling to the wheel alignment place, but I don't know about the safety of this - perhaps you could install the bolts yourself in the carpark of the wheel alignment shop . Why is installing the camber bolts so expensive? Well, I argued with a Beaurepairs guy about this because I assumed that they could install each bolt (which takes about 2-5 minutes each) while the wheel is off for the wheel alignment. So I figured they could do it for free, or at most $20 extra. However, this is not the case. The Beaurepairs guy told me that they cannot safely change the bolt while the car is mounted on the wheel alignment machine. Instead they would install the bolts as a seperate procedure - raising the car, removing the wheels, installing the bolts, and replacing the wheels. Despite the extra work I think $100 is still over the top, so I'm going to install the bolts myself the day I take it in for wheel alignment - this should take me about half hour or so. Note that the Koni shocks are called 'inserts' - that means you need to cut apart your original struts and insert the new shocker into the strut casing. Other branded shock absorbers may include the the full strut assembly, and would therfore be a full replacement and a much easier job. But where's the fun in that? Some notes, and other useful things ----------------------------------- - I had a LOT of help from brother-in-law, who is a mechanic and who took me through this procedure. You will almost certainly need a two people, with one person quite strong, particularly when installing the front springs. - The words 'shock', 'shocker', and 'damper' all refer to the same thing - the new shock insert. - Some other words I've made up to describe parts that I don't know the proper name, like 'stabiliser arm'. You'll know what I mea when you're looking at it. - When undoing or doing up bolts where you have access to both sides (like the castor bolts), place a ring spanner on one side while you undo the other side. This will prevent bolt from spinning. - We used an air-pressure rattle gun to do most of the bolts - I highly recomend the investment, it will save you some considerable time. - I bought a trolley jack and two car stands for about $60 - well worth it. Raising the car --------------- If this is your first time using a trolley jack (as it was for me), familiarise yourself with the raising and lowering mechanism. The lowering release valve can be touchy - the first time I lowered the car I twisted too fast and the car dropped to the ground, narrowly missing my head! We had a laugh, but there was potential to damage the car (or my head!). Before jacking up the car remember to place chocks behind the wheels on the opposite end of the car, and pull the handbrake. eg. When raising the back, place the chocks in front of both front wheels. The whole backend can be raised by placing the jack in the centre of the car somwhere between the rear wheels. Once raised, place both stands under the car, one on each side slightly in front of the rear wheel. Avoid placing under the car's external chassis - find a strong point just inside the edge of the car. Remember to lower the jack so that the weight is on the stands. The front end needs each corner lifted one at a time. There is a nice place to jack up with the trolley jack near the foot of the suspension. Again, place the car stands in a strong spot, slightly in from the chassis, and slightly behind the front wheels. When raising the second side, be mindful of the stand on the opposite side - it may slip a bit but that's okay so long is stays standing upright. To lower the car, place the jack in the same spot, raise a little, remove the stands, then lower the car gently.