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10-08-2008, 08:24 PM | #1 |
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Random Question thread..
saw this somewhere else and thought it was a good idea, because i often have questions that i feel dont deserve their own thread but i still want to ask..
please feel free to delete this if you think its a waste of space... anyways my 1st question.. im thinking of redoing all my suspension so that when i go to the track i can be real quick and flat through the corners.. but my worry is that i will have to go stupidly fast to get it loose in the skid pan? are my worries justified or is it just a matter of undoing the front sway bar and off i go? cheers
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10-08-2008, 09:45 PM | #2 |
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if its a skid pan, then a hand break is all you need to get your car loose. the suspension won't stop that. you don't need to undo the front sway bar.
ryan |
10-08-2008, 10:01 PM | #3 |
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yeah but at the moment all i need to do if lift off and i get a nice little bit of oversteer.
do you use a hydraulic handbrake?
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http://www.astinagt.com/forums/vbpic...?do=view&g=433 Last edited by Putonyourshoes; 10-08-2008 at 10:03 PM. Reason: spelt something wrong |
10-08-2008, 10:04 PM | #4 |
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nope i use the normal hand brake.
if you stiffen up the suspension, the lift off oversteer will only increase. |
11-08-2008, 10:31 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
for some reason i thought stiffening up the suspension would make the weight shift less, which in turn kept it planted. cheers mate
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10-08-2008, 10:10 PM | #6 |
Veni, vidi, vici
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Location: Brisbane
Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8
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ye especially if by stiffening suspesion you shorten the vertical travel
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10-08-2008, 10:23 PM | #7 |
AstinaGT Regular
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skidpans are soo fun.
I'm doing a motorkhana at deca in October............. assuming my car survives Winton in September.
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14-08-2008, 08:27 PM | #8 |
AstinaGT Regular
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ive got a random quick question
do i need a wheel alignment after installing any of the following - rear sway bar - front/rear strut brace - new clutch and flywheel if i dont need wheel alignments after installing these i think ill do them one by one to try feel the difference, otherwise theyre all going in at the same time to save some wheel alignment money LOL |
14-08-2008, 09:03 PM | #9 |
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i didnt get one done for sway bar/ strut braces or new clutch and when i finally got one done after putting new wheels on they said it was pretty close to perfect so no. i dont think so
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14-08-2008, 09:11 PM | #10 |
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- rear sway bar no
- front/rear strut braceno, unless installed weird - new clutch and flywheelyes, but not urgent |
14-08-2008, 09:36 PM | #11 |
AstinaGT Regular
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thanks for the quick info guys
looking forward to picking up these mods |
15-08-2008, 12:49 PM | #12 |
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this is a massive longshot.. but are the mazda 3 and astina coilovers similar enough to fit lol
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15-08-2008, 02:49 PM | #13 |
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No. The Mazda 3 rear suspension is a very different design. The springs don't mount to the shocks they sit more inboard (similar to the Mazda 6).
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15-08-2008, 02:43 PM | #14 |
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im sorry but why not just buy astina coil overs??? alot easier...
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15-08-2008, 04:54 PM | #15 |
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hahaha yeahh i thought so. thanks guys
yeaah im looking for some but i cant afford to dish out the cash for brand new ones
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15-08-2008, 08:45 PM | #16 |
The Hairy Mod
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and mazda 3 ones would be any cheaper??? anythin you get cheap that involves coilovers is luck...most likely if their cheap its for a reason, be it there rooted or they need a rebuild...
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15-08-2008, 10:16 PM | #17 |
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Car wont start.... thought it was starter related (thought might have chewed pinion gear or something)...pulled out starter, starter = fine. Works fine when provided with 12v when outside of the car (throws the pinion out, spins the gear). Teeth are all fine. When back in the car, just get a "click" then the noise of the starter spinning.....no engagement with ring gear by the sounds....
Given that the starter is 100% aok....do you reckon chewed up ring gear? I have run out of ideas. |
17-08-2008, 09:01 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Earthing problem or power problem run direct power use jumper leads if you can. or the starter is dieing just becuase it spins under no load - does not mean it's okay. Or the relay to power it to switch it has lost it's ability to transfer it. I had mine reqired to a external relay for this reason. Eibachs in a BA Drive Concord road - now tell me can you live with that road. Then say your car is so stiff that it's not uncomfortable if you have say shocks to hold them like KYB's at minimal. But lets just say handling is ultimate but the ride is Very compromise. It's not totally stiff it's Firm. YOu know you hit ripple a bump. Powerlines The basketball? / I'm guessing you mean mean insulators on the end of the lines - the cermaic/ glass things ? all they do is insulate the power from the pole. |
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18-08-2008, 10:42 AM | #19 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
any other tests for a starter to see if its b0rked? |
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16-08-2008, 11:03 AM | #20 |
Senior Member
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I have one!
Why do car manufacturers choose one bulb type of another? Like our astina's had H3 and H1, then later on they switched to both H1. Is there any advantage to the different types? Obviously H4 is so they only need one bulb.
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