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18-07-2013, 03:14 PM | #101 |
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Those brakes. Hot. Those calipers. Need that colour. Did you paint them??
Funny about the hoist. When i got tyres not that long ago, took them longer to figure out how to get it on the hoist. In the end they just jacked it up manually haha. |
18-07-2013, 03:57 PM | #102 | |
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Yah cept im not an idiot just blonde...
Quote:
Here's hoping there awesome! They were rather expensive, would recommend getting mazda6 brakes over them purely for this reason alone...
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18-07-2013, 05:01 PM | #103 |
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Hahaha
Glad the issue is all sorted now |
18-07-2013, 06:32 PM | #104 | |
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Quote:
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19-07-2013, 09:10 AM | #105 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
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it was a can i had from back in the day when i did my brakes. its an awesome looking blue
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19-07-2013, 09:20 AM | #106 |
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^^ This.
Will take a look at the can when I get home Updated first page to reflect current status of the car.
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19-07-2013, 09:55 AM | #107 |
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Looks like Cyan Blue to me
Good to see the car progressing now Kris, whats the plans for your old springs/struts? (not in the market, just curious)
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Last edited by marcs_sp20; 19-07-2013 at 10:18 AM. |
19-07-2013, 10:00 AM | #108 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
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you forgot to add sp20 rims and standard exhaust to the list
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19-07-2013, 10:55 AM | #109 | |
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Quote:
But so far im liking the lack of roll. Prolly wont go any stiffer then current settings though 18-22. Id prefer to retain as much DD in my suspension as I can So yeah, not sure what to do with them. Problem is there a good bit of gear but have cost me 600ish to setup and are only ~6k old.
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28-07-2013, 11:33 PM | #110 |
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Some new photos curtious of Mad Mat.
Brakes still looks small inside of the wheels: Ohh and teaser pic of engine: https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...54155347_n.jpg (Mines the one on the right) Hope to start assembly soon Link to mad mats photo page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Ph...48018501935506
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29-07-2013, 07:26 PM | #111 |
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Hey man,
Pretty easy, biggest thing is to take your time when prying them open Just followed the guide here loosley: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...ack-out-for-P5! Only differences is I used 600 wet to sand it followed by 800 wet. Then painted it with black paint, no primer. Then just multiple light coats. Couple more shots of the headlights after they were complete: The test harness that was whipped up to test the lights: The result:
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Last edited by Ice88; 29-07-2013 at 07:29 PM. |
06-09-2013, 12:42 PM | #112 |
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Quick Update. Looks like the threads are rooted in the block, installing the head last night and the head studs just stripped the thread on the block, trying to re torque the studs just results in the studs never getting tight. Taking the engine back to the guys whom did the bottom end, going to put two helacoils in the two stuffed threads and investigate using a bigger bolt for the others
Have some photos of the build process. Also looks like my compression is more then 11:1. Its anywhere from 11.6:1 - 12.14:1 Compression. Logically if these are K1 Pistons with a larger wrist pin then this accounts for the increased compression. Only thing is my rods are 1mm longer. *shrug* So long as the valve recesses are big enough that the engine rotates, I'll be happy. Does mean I need to look into ECUs sooner rather then later. Still hoping, that utilizing the MSF ECU will give me the ability to put around while I work out the wiring etc. Have some photos that I'll upload ASAP but not having alot of fun trying to upload from phone...
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Last edited by Ice88; 06-09-2013 at 12:43 PM. Reason: EDIT: Speeling |
06-09-2013, 05:06 PM | #113 |
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Last edited by Ice88; Today at 12:43 PM. Reason: EDIT: Speeling
hahaha, sucks about the threads man |
06-09-2013, 06:43 PM | #114 |
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Yeah. If all the threads are ****ed then the engine will really need to be disassembled before helacoiling the block.
Then reassemble. fml. If threads arent ****ed then the torque wrench we are using is way out. Im kinda hoping its the latter as that will bar *far* less painful.
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08-09-2013, 12:27 PM | #115 |
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This is the source engine from which I stole the nuts off for the Oil Pump, Water Pump and a few bracket bolts. Its a friends old engine that he had the unfortunate disposition of hyrdo locking during the floods IIRC
Cleaning the Block surface ready for the head: Engine with water pump, oil pump and some of the pulleys: Check out the flushness yo: One of the bolts shortly after stripping the thread in the block:
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08-09-2013, 05:23 PM | #117 |
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which brand of bolts you used? or what brand of studs you used? do you have specifics? it's kind of hard to stuff the threads because this is an iron block
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08-09-2013, 09:15 PM | #118 |
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Yeah was googling for potential solutions. Cause other then taping a new thread and using bigger bolts I couldn't think of anything
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08-09-2013, 11:04 PM | #120 |
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Yeah that's prolly what will be happening for the two that we stuffed. But if all the threads need doing then the engine needs to come apart to ensure cleanliness of engine etc.
Hoping two helacoils + some bigger bolts will do the trick...
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