Procedure to replace alternator on V6

Doctor Shifty · 12-10-2013, 09:34 AM

Can somebody tell me the procedure to replace the alternator on the V6? There doesn't seem to be anything on the forum that I can find, except a post that says the V6 is easier than the 4.

I've got ramps but no stands, and am on leave for another week. Now that we're home again I can look to getting this thing fixed.

BrownDog · 12-10-2013, 01:51 PM

Should be pretty close, undo the belt tensioner so the belt is loose enough that u can slip it off the pulley. Then remove all bolts holding the alternator to the motor, remove all wires and then hurt your arm and wrist trying to menouver it around everything so you can get it out.

After that, have a break and some lunch then just reverse

Doctor Shifty · 12-10-2013, 06:12 PM

Thanks BrownDog, but does it come out from the top or the bottom?

The posts about removing the 1.8 alternator talk about removing it from underneath and taking out the subframe and drive shaft. The V6 is probably a tighter fit than the 4 so I thought it worth getting some details before I decide to do it myself or take it to the mechanic.

The last time I had to do an alternator was on an old Ford Escort - a bit Jurassic now I think about it - but there was lots of room.

Cosmo Dude · 12-10-2013, 08:15 PM

The 1.8 alternator is in a difficult position and I could understand questions like this but the V6 alternator is in plain view when you lift the bonnet. And Brown Dog I'd remove the wiring before removing the bolts, the wiring will last longer and you will be chasing fewer electrical faults.

Clean_Cookie · 13-10-2013, 09:53 AM

I4 is a prick. Had to remove the cv to get it out... V6 comes straight out when I did it.

BrownDog · 13-10-2013, 09:56 AM

I swapped a alt from underneath before and hate doing so, much easier to remove the intake and grab it from the to

I normally do the wires first, just didn't type it that way as I typed it all and forgot about the wires and didn't wanna start over

Doctor Shifty · 17-10-2013, 06:51 PM

Thanks for the responses everyone. Although the alternator is in view, it's obvious that it doesn't fit through the gaps in an easy upward direction.

However, we suddenly had some other stuff come up at home and decided to drop the car at the mechanic. He had to removed the radiator to lift out the alternator. Turned out that the regulator was dead and the armature windings were starting to fail, so a whole new part went in.

The car is now back to normal, my wallet is lighter, the mechanic and auto electrician can eat out on the weekend. Two out of three wins in there.

Clean_Cookie · 17-10-2013, 08:50 PM

At least it's fixed. Win win win. Worse if you were still troubleshooting and they were eating out

12-10-2013, 09:34 AM	#1
Doctor Shifty Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Newcastle NSW Car: V6 Hardtop & Outback Posts: 36	Procedure to replace alternator on V6 Can somebody tell me the procedure to replace the alternator on the V6? There doesn't seem to be anything on the forum that I can find, except a post that says the V6 is easier than the 4. I've got ramps but no stands, and am on leave for another week. Now that we're home again I can look to getting this thing fixed.

12-10-2013, 01:51 PM	#2
BrownDog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Beachmere Car: 1997 BA "The Red Baron" Posts: 704	Should be pretty close, undo the belt tensioner so the belt is loose enough that u can slip it off the pulley. Then remove all bolts holding the alternator to the motor, remove all wires and then hurt your arm and wrist trying to menouver it around everything so you can get it out. After that, have a break and some lunch then just reverse __________________ The Red Baron Roses are Red Violets are Blue My Madza 323 Goes... SSSSSSSSTUUTUUTUU

12-10-2013, 08:15 PM	#4
Cosmo Dude コスモ Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Location: Vic Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD Posts: 7,888 View Photos By: Cosmo Dude	The 1.8 alternator is in a difficult position and I could understand questions like this but the V6 alternator is in plain view when you lift the bonnet. And Brown Dog I'd remove the wiring before removing the bolts, the wiring will last longer and you will be chasing fewer electrical faults. __________________ My 'stina Hatch

13-10-2013, 09:53 AM	#5
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	I4 is a prick. Had to remove the cv to get it out... V6 comes straight out when I did it. __________________ Worklog

13-10-2013, 09:56 AM	#6
BrownDog Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Beachmere Car: 1997 BA "The Red Baron" Posts: 704	I swapped a alt from underneath before and hate doing so, much easier to remove the intake and grab it from the to I normally do the wires first, just didn't type it that way as I typed it all and forgot about the wires and didn't wanna start over __________________ The Red Baron Roses are Red Violets are Blue My Madza 323 Goes... SSSSSSSSTUUTUUTUU

12-10-2013, 06:12 PM	#3
Doctor Shifty Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Newcastle NSW Car: V6 Hardtop & Outback Posts: 36	Thanks BrownDog, but does it come out from the top or the bottom? The posts about removing the 1.8 alternator talk about removing it from underneath and taking out the subframe and drive shaft. The V6 is probably a tighter fit than the 4 so I thought it worth getting some details before I decide to do it myself or take it to the mechanic. The last time I had to do an alternator was on an old Ford Escort - a bit Jurassic now I think about it - but there was lots of room.

17-10-2013, 06:51 PM	#7
Doctor Shifty Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Newcastle NSW Car: V6 Hardtop & Outback Posts: 36	Thanks for the responses everyone. Although the alternator is in view, it's obvious that it doesn't fit through the gaps in an easy upward direction. However, we suddenly had some other stuff come up at home and decided to drop the car at the mechanic. He had to removed the radiator to lift out the alternator. Turned out that the regulator was dead and the armature windings were starting to fail, so a whole new part went in. The car is now back to normal, my wallet is lighter, the mechanic and auto electrician can eat out on the weekend. Two out of three wins in there.

17-10-2013, 08:50 PM	#8
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	At least it's fixed. Win win win. Worse if you were still troubleshooting and they were eating out __________________ Worklog