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31-10-2011, 10:31 PM | #21 |
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So you only have the stock front speakers which are the 5x7's and 6x9's? Sorry im confused, i have the hatch and it only has speakers in the door.
If your stock is 5x7's in the front and 6x9's in the rear, just stick with them. You do not need to add more speakers as it wont make **** all difference. You have a hell of a sub, so go for splits up front and some decent 6x9's in the rear. Do not go with max wattage thinking its the best thing ever. Go to a shop, like wow and listen. Sometimes the cheaper things are better. |
31-10-2011, 10:38 PM | #22 |
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Me being 1 of those happy members, 6 years on and still going strong
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31-10-2011, 11:07 PM | #23 |
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31-10-2011, 11:21 PM | #24 |
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JL Audio TR570-CXi
These are the model up, same design etc: http://www.ryda.com.au/JL-Audio-C257...s-p/c2570x.htm My opinion would be just run some cheapy speakers in the rear just for rear fill, and your woofer will give up your dose of doof
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31-10-2011, 11:50 PM | #25 |
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I've got C5-650s in mine, got them tuned up just nice and oh my do they sound sweet!
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01-11-2011, 10:43 AM | #26 | |
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Quote:
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01-11-2011, 06:29 PM | #27 |
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01-11-2011, 06:35 PM | #28 | |
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I have mounted my tweeters on the dash but I do have a set of Factory Tweeter mounts from the JDM spec Familias that clip onto where your door mirrors go that I dont need. |
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01-11-2011, 06:51 PM | #29 | |
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phildough where did u hide your crossovers? |
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01-11-2011, 07:51 PM | #30 | |
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You could also hide them under the dash as there is heaps of room there, there is removable panels on each side of the dash where when I remount my crossovers I will hide them. My tweeters wont fit in my tweeter covers off the JDM Familias and I wont even attempt to pull them apart or mod them to fit as the speakers were worth over $1200 when I got them. P.S. Never mount crossovers in your door unless the are mounted up the top and have been well waterproofed, I have pulled out many crossovers from doors that got wet and died in friends cars. |
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01-11-2011, 08:06 PM | #31 |
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coool i'll try to mount them on dash as well then..
now i just need a decent set of components speakers for decent $$ .. still dont know what to choose between kickers, rockford and hertz. rockford http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ROCKFORD-...#ht_1875wt_952 rockford http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rockford-...#ht_1919wt_952 hertz -- with 125RMS and sensitivity 92 db/SPL http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HERTZ-HI-...#ht_2054wt_952 kicker http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-KICKE...#ht_2013wt_952 |
01-11-2011, 08:48 PM | #32 |
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I'm about to make the jump into audiophile ecstasy, alongside phildough - and score myself some of the top line JL 6.5" speakers for my front. I have the TR570-CXi's at the moment, and they just cant handle the HPF at 80hz (they crunch-punch the bass, sounds woeful).
In my honest opinion, from all the reading i've done, your front speakers should be the most expensive part of your speaker ensemble. They are full-range speakers, designed to handle everything from midbass (80hz+) to highs (10khz+). HPF's are generally set between 80-100hz, to cut out any lower frequencies to the fronts... and if your fronts cannot quite handle even the 80hz frequencies well at high volumes, they will peak during the bass tones and distort... (e.g. if you set your HPF to 80hz and play a song that has average bass, turning up the music to a nice loudish level, and you hear the pop-pop-pop of the bass (from over excursion and distortion of the cone), then you'll need to increase your HPF to 100hz or more, so less bass is sent to the front speakers). Doing this decreases the quality of the low-end sound heard at the front, and requires the sub to pick up all the work. From experience with my JL audio 12w3v3 sealed subwoofer, if I play most of my 100hz or lower out of the sub, I have to have it turned up quite high to hear the drum kick (around 85-100hz) - which is when you really feel the hit (oooh yea), but then the bassline just wobbles on over the top of everything else and it sounds like a whale getting mauled by a sea lion. Just not nice. Whereas if you allow the fronts to take care of the midbass portion, of around 100hz, and they can do so well without distorting, then you can lower the volume of your subwoofer, or even tune it to lower frequencies (80hz or lower) so it can handle the rich bass lines, whilst not overpowering the music. The fronts should be able to make a fair bit of a "hit", and your subwoofer can compliment this from the rear, without it sounding like all the low end stuff is coming from the rear... Now seriously, this is just my experience, and theres probably a good chance that I've tuned my system incorrectly or mistaken someones advice...but it seems to be a general census (someone please correct me if im wrong ) So, my recommendation is to save your pennies, and get a really high quality front system. Square it down to 3 or 4 brands and look at their mid-top line front speaker range/selection... price match them to the same category (ie, look at alpine, boston and JL all in the $400-500 range) and then source these at WOW sight and sound or JB Hifi and go have a listen. Make sure they turn it way up, and shut up the subwoofer (so you can hear exactly how they sound). Then dial in the sub to see what you should be putting your subwoofer at to achieve the same sound you hear in-store. edit: I've done a bit more googling, and I could be over dramatising the low-bass coming from the front :| My sub is probably tuned wrong so my wobbling whale/sea lion scenario may be my own fault Still, i'd get a good pair of fronts, over $300, regardless of whether or not your pushing the 80hz through them. With a 15" sub your bass is gunna be pretty smooth anyway (cone is quite large and naturally the "thump" it'll give will be less, instead will give a louder "smooth" constant bass) so you would want to compensate for that with better fronts/punchier bass...
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Last edited by pyromaniac11; 01-11-2011 at 09:09 PM. |
01-11-2011, 09:26 PM | #33 |
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ive got my fronts at 125 HPF for the cleanest sound, and the sub at 50. this means im losing all the frequencies through the fronts and only coming out the rear speakers but it sounds the best... will get a new system of high quality for the current build...
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01-11-2011, 09:32 PM | #34 |
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Well all the 4 i mentioned above have Frequency Response between 35-20k hz.
Went to one of the audio place, they told me if i want a clear system, just get FOCAL components.. aparently they are very good.. Also the sensitivity should be high, higher the sensitivity = more efficient.. |
01-11-2011, 11:01 PM | #35 | |
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Yeh the frequency response means what range the speaker has (ie, what sounds it will actually play out of the speaker). That doesn't tell you anything about how well they will play the sounds... High quality gear, made with higher quality components (like, material of the cone, the coil etc), and the signal quality/intensity that is pushed from the amplifier, will determine what sound actually comes out of the speaker and at what volume. To prove a point, if you buy those speakers with the 35hz response, plug em in, turn your subwoofer off...play a tone/sound file that is pure 40hz, and turn it up until you can hear it....then you'll realise that even though your speaker can "play" the sound, the volume to which it will play it, is probably -24db compared to the rest of the soundstage (ie, 100hz - 10khz will play at 90db, while your 35-99hz tones will play somewhere around 60db, which means you wont hear it because of the rest of the music). And you sure as hell wont "feel it". Focal are really sharp and crisp. They make great fronts/splits. I would still recommend you spend your money wisely and pick something in their mid-higher range. That way you're only spending your money once. If you desperate for cheap speakers, i'll sell you my JL audio front coaxils TR570-CXi's .... just because I believe they will sound immensely better than most of the other speakers that you've linked on eBay. But my main recommendation is that you buy something better/more expensive.
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01-11-2011, 11:18 PM | #36 |
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Well the JL coaxcial is not expensive, its only $147.85.
But apparently splits are better.. thats why am checking the splits.. JL components http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-JL-Au...#ht_1813wt_952 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-JL-Au...#ht_1813wt_952 |
02-11-2011, 12:58 AM | #37 | |
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The ones your looking at look like the outdated version of these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JL-AUDIO-...item2a15082d4d http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?comp_id=585 Probably try and snag the newer version. But I'm either getting the c3-650's or the c5-650's...based on my funds after my insurance + rego (*weeps quietly*) They will definitely crank, running 6" off one channel each, and the tweeters of their own channels as well. Helloooooo PoPo
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02-11-2011, 01:18 AM | #38 | |
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Might have to try this setup as my ZR 650 crossovers were designed to be bi amped as well, oh well that means I will need a new amp and to sound proof the doors. |
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02-11-2011, 06:52 AM | #39 |
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Done, i bought these :
1 x JL Audio C2-650 6.5" Component Speakers $228.00 1 x Kicker 11DS693 6x9" 3-Way Car Speakers $139.00 phildough Apparently we can buy the rubber stuff from clark rubber to do sound proofing, i read its omewhere on the forum.. but i just can't find it on their website. Last edited by Spykey; 02-11-2011 at 07:19 AM. |
02-11-2011, 08:44 AM | #40 |
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Jaycar sells it, and I have been looking for it on the net at other suppliers and think buying it bulk is the best idea.
So who is interested in sound deadening their cars, I know both myself and TC3 racer is for his new project if we get enough in bulk it will be a lot cheaper. |
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