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Old 06-06-2012, 06:47 PM   #3981
Lachlan
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Originally Posted by project.r.racing View Post
500less rpm @ 100kph.
Would it be difficult to change over?
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Old 06-06-2012, 06:48 PM   #3982
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Lower RPM when in 5th on the highway, so better fuel economy. Install is quick and easy as 5th should be under the removable end cap on the transmission. It's the only gear you can change without dropping the whole gearbox.
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:04 PM   #3983
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How hards it to change over?
How hard would you find a gear box rebuild?
It's just a straight forward gear swap. But that still requires dropping box, tearing it down.
May as well do the sincro's Atleast if you want to swap 5th
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:05 PM   #3984
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Ahh lol, forgot about mazdas handy little port! Ahahahahaha
Yeah easy peasy lol
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:10 PM   #3985
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It would be great if you do a lot of highway cruising on long roads with no hills, it actually makes a large difference to the car and the SP20 doesn't have enough torque to happily pull its self along at 100@2500 RPM if there are hill or lots of overtaking is involved so you find yourself dropping back to 4th more often.
I looked at getting it done to my car when I rebuilt my gearbox and decided as my car is a town car and barely use 5th anyway it would be a bad idea.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:16 PM   #3986
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Does anyone know, or know someone who knows, how to reset the diesel system on a BL MZR-CD? Without using specialist tools
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:19 PM   #3987
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You mean the oil data?
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:27 PM   #3988
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I don't know or heard of any method of resetting it other than using the MMDS alot of cars still coming in with the DPF light on cause the data reset was not done.
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:17 PM   #3989
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So, my car often sits in the shed for a few days every now and then since i don't drive all that much. So today when i went to go out, its been sitting since Thursday evening i put it in reverse and it didnt really move straight away...It felt like it had the hand break on (It did, but i took it off) But straight away it went backwards in that brief second that felt like the handbreak was on, and kind of made a crunchy snapy bang sound (I'm so mechanically minded remember ) wtf was this? I got out and looked under the car, nothing is snapped and its running fine... This just the brakes just being stuck because the handbreak was on for so long or something??
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:34 PM   #3990
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Maybe just surface rust on the rotors sticking.
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:38 PM   #3991
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As Ryan said, surface rust on the rotors, same as if you washed the car and then drove it after sitting for a coulple hours
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:45 PM   #3992
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Ah wow, could be possible seeing as how it was raining on thursday... sounded so serious hahaha. I can live with that though.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:03 PM   #3993
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Does anyone have a list of all the LEDs needed for the bjII sp20? (Interior dome & room lights, dash lights, number plates, indicators etc.)
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Old 13-06-2012, 08:38 AM   #3994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
Does anyone have a list of all the LEDs needed for the bjII sp20? (Interior dome & room lights, dash lights, number plates, indicators etc.)
Know the glove box, map lights, rear numberplate globes are all the same wedge globe

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...e&form=KEYWORD

Interior dome and boot light is sumthing like this
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...e&form=KEYWORD

in regards to the rest cant help you out im sorry :-(
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Old 14-06-2012, 09:45 AM   #3995
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All the wedges are T10...

Can fit a festoon 12 smd LED's in the dome light easy.

Trent188 did LED's in his cluster I'm pretty sure. PM him.
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Old 14-06-2012, 11:23 AM   #3996
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The dash & cluster lights are combination of T5 & T10 bulbs im pretty certain..
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Old 16-06-2012, 12:39 PM   #3997
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I've tried and tried understanding offsets in regards to wheels.. I've found a few rims on eBay that I like, but each of them are 16x7 (diameter and width) with a +20 offset... I'm not sure but I think I've seen a few times on here that for Astinas you need a +45 or +38 offset...? A little bit confused about it all.
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Old 16-06-2012, 12:54 PM   #3998
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Ok... I am running 18x7.5 +50 max you can go without guard rolling. and I have only a few mm clearance between rim and strut.
Google offset calculator. Just punch in the info of my rims, then the info of the rims you are looking at.... This will tell you if and how they are going to fit
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Old 16-06-2012, 01:02 PM   #3999
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Fwiw when the wheel sits with the mounting place etc in the centre that's 0 offset/inset. One way is inset and the other os offset. I believe what we actually need is negative offset, or inset persay. So -45 will sit less flush and more toward the car than a -38 offset, or could be called a +38 inset.

The problem is people don't specify which way the measurement is from the centre, get the wrong one and it'll be way out! Another inconsistent thing about wheels. Goodluck.

38 will sit basically flush on a bj I think. The stock are narrower at 6.5 wide but are 45?
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Old 16-06-2012, 01:05 PM   #4000
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http://http://www.1010tires.com/Whee...Calculator.asp

Use my rim specs as current wheel offset.
Insert rims you are looking at for new rim specs.

That web page also helps you to understand offset too!
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