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29-04-2009, 06:38 PM | #421 |
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why would you want them the other way? would look wierd...
should get these: Link Here or you could always crack yours open and paint them black
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29-04-2009, 07:03 PM | #422 |
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i don't understand your thinking. you changed/removed your tail light cos you didn't like black on black. now you wanna get black head lights?
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29-04-2009, 07:31 PM | #423 |
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The black taillights were ugly as hell, after seeing that pic i posted the headlights look alrite imo.. heres another pic
IDK wich one it is tho? Last edited by Diztorsion; 29-04-2009 at 07:44 PM. |
30-04-2009, 12:30 AM | #424 |
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There both the same one just has been given the black treatment
@ Marc Coulda sworn i read a comparison on mazdas247 that the 626 manifold was better, not sure if thats in regards to boost or NA though. The runners are bigger or something. Be an interesting comparison at any rate |
30-04-2009, 12:33 PM | #425 | |
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Quote:
Im thinking, if the prices have come down considerably in a couple years, is to import a FS-ZE and just "plonk" it in the engine bay... but might just end up just buying a 626 long block and doing work off that... As I said, not for a couple years
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04-05-2009, 03:10 PM | #426 |
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ok so i unnsuccesfully attempted to remove my cv joint from the hub so that i can change the boot today.. my question is whats the best way to remove it? is there some sort of retaining clip or is it just sitting there and has to be pushed out? any help is very welcome
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04-05-2009, 03:13 PM | #427 | |
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Quote:
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04-05-2009, 03:22 PM | #428 |
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yep thats what i was after cheers dan (i dont think a rubber mallet would work on myn its rusted solid ey i used a sledge hammer after a while and it didnt budge hence the tool im gona get )
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04-05-2009, 04:59 PM | #429 |
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the mechanic that did my clutch at 105,000km didn't regrease the spline when putting the CV back into the hub.
then when the LSD was put in, the CV wasn't coming out. we had to heat the hub with a oxy torch a little to make it expand to get it out. very last option, as too much heat will bust the bearings. lucky we did not. |
05-05-2009, 09:05 PM | #430 |
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ok i got another question. does anyone know what the track length of a GTX is (front axle to back axle)?
cheers |
05-05-2009, 09:24 PM | #431 |
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haha you're looking at an AWD conversion arent you?
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05-05-2009, 11:09 PM | #432 |
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eventually, in a few years, when i actually finish uni n get a job that is my ultimate goal also few other changes
but the question is still there. does anyone know the track length of the GTX/R |
05-05-2009, 11:38 PM | #433 |
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Dimensions:
* Wheelbase: 2450 mm (96.5 in) * Front Track: 1430 mm (56.3 in) * Rear Track: 1435 mm (56.5 in) * Length: 3995 mm (157.3 in) * Width: 1675 mm (65.9 in) * Weight: 955 kg (2105 lb) http://wikicars.org/en/Mazda_323#1989 Thats bout all i could find in a quick search. |
06-05-2009, 05:18 PM | #434 |
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a quick question...
My BA hardtop recently started squealing a little sometimes when coming to a stop. Would that be worn out break paddles ? i suspect its the front ones. cheers |
06-05-2009, 10:53 PM | #435 | |
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Quote:
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07-05-2009, 02:20 PM | #436 |
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07-05-2009, 09:28 PM | #437 |
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07-05-2009, 09:39 PM | #438 |
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If you're doing the rear pads (and i suggest you do) have a poke around for instructions. There is a trick that will save you a lot of frustration.
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08-05-2009, 12:28 AM | #439 |
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haha i know what you mean man.
hint: look for a allen key bolt.. its behind a philips screw on the back of back caliper and very very hidden |
12-05-2009, 02:10 PM | #440 |
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Rofl... yeah.. i didn't read this before i had a crack at it, and your right.. it took me a few mins to figure out how to get to the damn rear pads :P
Though as it turns out, they are still ok, at about 50%. So im not too sure whats causing the squeaking when breaking. |
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