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02-11-2011, 10:12 AM | #41 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
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There's different types of sound reduction... Absorbing the sound is impossible as the amount of foam required apparently is like 200mm thick. There's closed cell foam which is laid over the top of dynamat etc then another sort of foam is laid over that for best results in terms of heat, road noise and quality of sound. If you're chasing the last one only a sheet of dynamat over the outside door skin, the inside skin ib the front doors will do this cost effectively. For me I want heat reduction as this car will one day go travellig, and engine heat, so at the expense of fuel economy and weight I'd rather have a quiet easily cooled car...
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02-11-2011, 11:55 AM | #42 |
AstinaGT Regular
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Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
Car: Mazda 323 SP20 TURBO
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how much are they @ jaycar?
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02-11-2011, 12:06 PM | #44 | |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
Car: Mazda 323 SP20 TURBO
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someone said on whirpool : http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/344049
Quote:
tc3_racer can you post the URL for jaycar because i cant find any of the size you mentioned. cheers mate Last edited by Spykey; 02-11-2011 at 11:53 PM. |
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03-11-2011, 06:11 PM | #45 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brisvegas
Car: 1997 Mazda 323 BA Hardtop
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im definitely keen on a bulk order. I need to do my firewall (sound and heat if possible), boot (sound) back doors (sound) and mmmaayb my floors (sound).
Should i start saving ? ... i will if we bulk order it
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03-11-2011, 07:34 PM | #47 |
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You know im keen
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03-11-2011, 08:06 PM | #48 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
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I can't believe I ordered my speakers yesterday during the day, and i received it this morning.. Thats unbelievable how quick it was shipped
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03-11-2011, 08:08 PM | #49 |
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Now for the fun times, installing them, also replace all speaker wires while you are there.
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03-11-2011, 08:14 PM | #50 |
Senior Member
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where did you order them from?
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03-11-2011, 08:47 PM | #51 | |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
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Quote:
phildough Any advice for the wires? i know i have to run the power cabled on one side of the car and all the audio cable on the other side to avoid interferences... How about the wires connecting the door that run in this little rubber gourmet? Autobarn recommend to leave it.. as new wires might break... and cause trouble after.. smurfy from : http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/ i would highly recommend them for their prices and services and shipping.. I might go to clarks rubber tomorrow or next week to have a look what they got as Sound deadener and what the deal they can make for us... |
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03-11-2011, 09:19 PM | #53 | |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
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Quote:
For the wires in the dooor, how do you deal with the plug that protect the wires between the door and the pillar? which is the little rubber thingy.. |
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03-11-2011, 09:22 PM | #54 |
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I will take a pic of my spare door tommorrow morning.
Its not that hard to do the wiring properly |
03-11-2011, 10:09 PM | #55 | |
AstinaGT Regular
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Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
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Quote:
only the white plug that plug into the door scared me... because i dont want to mess around .. Any wires someone can recommend that is not going to break with the closing and opening movement of the door.. Aparently if we dont use good quality wires, they just break with time.. |
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03-11-2011, 10:19 PM | #56 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: From Melbourne - In Sydney Now
Car: Mazda 323 SP20 TURBO
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I found this on mazda247:
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03-11-2011, 10:48 PM | #57 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
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Wire is wire... Buy copper flexible stuff (personally I don't like the jaycar stuff) but if its not pinching on anything it won't break... Sounds like a salesman wanting to make more money...
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03-11-2011, 11:29 PM | #58 |
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Well that saves me a heap of time having to pull my spare door out and take a few pics!
Otherwise there is a nice guide here http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8810 I installed my wiring 6 years ago and its still fine, TBH there would be very little movement in the wiring if you install the wiring as shown in the guide which is how I did mine. Tape your wiring inside the doors so it wont get caught by the windows going up and down. I however wouldn't mount my crossovers inside the door, you want them some where where it wont get wet and if possible accessible so you can adjust the crossovers if they have that option (mine you can adjust the mid and highs with jumpers) and re-tighten the screws after a few weeks as they always seem too loosen a little. |
03-11-2011, 11:40 PM | #59 |
AstinaGT Regular
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ah yeah phildough, mine got 3 settings as well...
+2db, REF & -3db. Does it make big difference, and which one is recommended? another question will be what the size og cable are you using for your speakers? 14AWG? cheers Last edited by Spykey; 03-11-2011 at 11:47 PM. |
04-11-2011, 01:18 AM | #60 |
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As my crossovers had 5 settings for the tweeters and 4 midrange presence settings I mounted my crossovers under my seats so I could get to them, and yes in my case the settings do make a large difference but with my rears splits which have only the same 3 settings as yours all it does is increase or decrease the amount of treble.
I cant remember what size cable I used but from memory it was massive overkill. |
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