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12-10-2009, 12:10 AM | #61 |
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was down at yatala but it took a hit on the RHS. V6 too
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT |
12-10-2009, 08:56 AM | #62 |
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awesome dan - I've always wanted to do this.
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12-10-2009, 06:38 PM | #63 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I actually think it'll be torsionally stronger (or at least the same), as it has 2 sets of brackets that fasten at the B pillar and about halfway along the rearside window, in addition to the seal around the sunroof itself. The support i cut out really wasn't that impressive.
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14-10-2009, 03:14 PM | #64 |
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Packed the shotgun and headed down to Dandenong and Seaford today.
First stop was a place called Flock Finishers, where i got a quote for flocking my dash and centre console. Don't know what flocking is? it's basically a suede-like finish that is made up of fibres that are applied to a glue and then hit with an eletrostatic charge, which makes them stand up - and you end up with a 0.8mm dense suede finish. They do about 50 colors - including black, and a couple of shades of grey which i might get the pillar trims done in. Then went down to ASC Automotive Sunroof Co in Seaford to get a new finishing trim ring for the sunroof - basically the piece that goes on top of the roof to seal and 'finish' the jagged hole you've hacked They're pretty much a one-use item, as they're made from a white metal that isn't very resistant to being rebent, and a few of the tabs that fold over and lock onto the inside frame of the sunroof had broken off. Expensive little bastard though - more than the cost of the whole roof!
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14-10-2009, 07:26 PM | #65 |
SHO~247
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how hard will it be for you to retrim the roof rupe?
how are you going to do it? id be interested to see how its done.
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lots of bj/kn/kq laser parts for sale!!
custom boot install(fibreglass boxes),mazda 3 handbrake rachet,power window motors x 2,power window switches, guage rings its all gotta go!!! pm me any offers!! |
14-10-2009, 07:30 PM | #66 |
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could just dye it, but knowing you its gotta be different
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14-10-2009, 07:39 PM | #67 |
コスモ
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Sorry Dan. I know I promised...
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My 'stina Hatch |
14-10-2009, 08:00 PM | #68 |
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LOL i have no recollection of that you mean.
Well, i have to basically cut a big hole out of my standard headlining, and stretch material across the divide. That's how the one i got with the roof was done.
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15-10-2009, 07:22 PM | #69 |
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This car is awesome
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FE3 POWER
1985 Mazda 323 BF5P - FE3T powered 1988 Mazda Familia BFMP XG-I FE3 Powered |
20-10-2009, 05:32 PM | #70 |
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Picked up about 2 metres of 6mm foam sheet. This goes between the headlining material and the sunroof flame/motor etc, so there's no sharp corners showing through the headlining and insulated the noise a bit too.
And some 3M super 74 spray adhesive - to attach the new headlining in place. Just need some time now! Not going to happen this weekend either...bah.
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22-10-2009, 01:15 PM | #71 |
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Just impulse-bought this.
Goes better with my custom dials, but is a smaller size...and means i have to redo my dash pod But as i'm going to get the dash flocked once i've done the dash, i don't have to worry about such a perfect finish this time. Existing dash/gauge. I never really liked the Autometer gauge i had there anyway - '0' point was in the stupidest starting point. And i can redo the shift light too. Luckily i got another dash cheap recently :laughing:
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26-10-2009, 10:33 AM | #72 |
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...eeep. No going back now!
Measure 50 times, just to get the inner frame in the right spot. That's based on the positioning of where it was in the hatch roof.The support at the top of the photo is the one i cut out - it's just wedged in there to hold up the frame as holding it up gets tiring! Hole marked. Luckily i had one (only one!) half-used cutting disc for the angle grinder, and it was enough to do the job. Had a rug over the dash to protect the interior from all the bits of metal flying around, but it'll need a good clean anyway once i'm done. Look Ma, no roof! The frame trim dropped in perfectly, so there's a lesson there - do it right, first time I need to neaten off a few burrs here and there, but it's 95% there. Next it to clean the goo off the inner frame, and glue that and the outer trim into place. Then the headliner!
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26-10-2009, 11:10 AM | #73 |
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Haha nice. Gotta hate the feeling of cutting into a roof :/
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26-10-2009, 11:51 AM | #74 | |
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Quote:
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what the astina lacks in power it makes up 4 in handling straights are good for fast cars corners are for fast drivers |
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26-10-2009, 12:13 PM | #75 |
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i'm loving it. is the glass tinited?
good to see also that you have put the boss to work mowing the lawn. lol |
26-10-2009, 12:48 PM | #76 |
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Wolf 3D ECU
LOL i hadn't noticed that! But yeah, tinted glass, plus it's got a solid sliding shade
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26-10-2009, 01:02 PM | #77 |
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hehe its making me think of new things to do to myn
other things to do 1st i love it but |
26-10-2009, 10:42 PM | #78 |
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holy fluck!
Dan, you seriously have guts to give the car a little snip snip!
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27-10-2009, 12:18 AM | #79 |
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04-11-2009, 12:51 PM | #80 |
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Ok, 4 days of a decent work ethic results in:
Masking off the hole to trim the rough raised edges on the hole, and making sure the lip covers the tap so that i don't stuff up the paint outside of where the trim fits, if i can help it. That's the old trim in the pic, which needed replacing due to all the bends and the broken single-use clips on it. Here's the sunroof unit itself. And the inner roof trim that mounts to the outer trim ring. Once the hole was cut, it was a case of mounting the inner trim in place to make sure the hole was in the right spot (which it is), and then aligning the sunroof unit in place and bolting it into position. It used a couple of the factory bolt holes, so even better. The mounting points for the inner trim were a bit harder, but that was all done before the hole was cut. The worst part was cleaning off all the old goo off the inner frame - what a pain in the arse! In the end it was easiest to scrape it off with a knife, then go over it with some thinners to get the rest off. And there's the outer trim and inner glued in with HB Fuller Super Seal which is a black sikaflex-style goo, and then the clips of the outer trim bent over the inner frame, and it's in! There's no pics of all the excess goo i had - but better to have extra and have to clean it off - as then you know the seal is properly made. That stuff cures in about 30 minutes, but takes 7 days to full cure. It's better than Sikaflex, as it doesn't 'eat' into the surfaces you're applying it to, as it uses the moisture in the air to help cure. I had to retrim the sunshade at this point, as there's no getting that back in once the sunroof unit is mounted. So off came the old material, and on went the new, with a liberal amount of the 3M 77 spray glue to hold it in place. It's good stuff - it doesn't soak through the material i bought at all. This was kind of a test, as it was the first time using the glue. The results were quite pleasing. The trim isn't as purple as the photo makes out, either. So, the outer and inner trims have had about 24hrs to cure, so the sunroof unit is bolted into place. Just before this, a black rubber seal is reattached to the rear edge of the sunroof. So with that done, it was on to the drainage pipes for the sunroof. One at each corner of the unit. And no idea where the factory ones run as they're not listed in the workshop manuals, even though the sunroof unit is. Stupid! But after a bit (a lot) or removing bits of trim, i discovered a couple of bunged-up holes just behind the rear side bolsters that led into the rear wheel arches. So, with a little bending of the holes to point the hoses straight down, the hoses were run from the sunroof unit down the C pillars, and secured with masking tape and Super Seal. You can see where there's a indent for the hose to run in the first pic, in the centre top. The hose i'm using came from Clark Rubber. All 6m of it! It's petrol-grade, and can withstand up to 80° heat, so should be find for this sort of application. Looks to be the same stuff as the old one, which had discolored to brown but was still quite solid. Once of the hardest things was to find where the hell the front ones were supposed to go. The indent in the A pillar was there, but once the pillar ends there's no guide at all. So after probably 30 minutes of probing, searching with torches, removing the scuttle panel etc etc, i bit the bullet and pulled off the front guard. There i finally found the bung for the front. It's a pain to get to, it basically required a flattened 'Z' twist to get it from the inner hole to out of the sill, but it's not crimping the hose at all. The drivers side even had the right clips to hold the tubing in place - no such luck with the passenger side, which is held with tape and Super Seal
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