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02-03-2005, 04:47 AM | #61 | |
Manpink Crusader
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Stafford, Brisbane
Car: 1990 GD mx6 F2T, and soon I might drive the batmoobile once again
Posts: 2,280
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02-03-2005, 04:56 PM | #62 | |
Pandaspeed Racing
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Quote:
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Life would be straight without twisties STOCK AS A ROCKET! •motor sport is dangerous and that accidents causing harm can and do happen and may happen to me. I accept the conditions of, and acknowledge the risks arising from, attending or participating in the event and being provided with the event services by CAMS and the Associated Entities I THINK I AM N2! |
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02-03-2005, 05:49 PM | #63 |
Junior Member
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had no luck tonight. could push it down, but very hard to turn. i guess i'll leave it till i got the springs installed.
btw, well, is my alignment gonna be off after this unsuccessful attempt?
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2001 Mazda 323 SP20 Sunburst Yellow Sports Hatch |
02-03-2005, 06:20 PM | #64 |
living in the past man
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naaa it should be fine... this isn't to adjust the alignment - thats done down in the steering rods...
you need muscles!!! the whole strut should actually be a pain in the arse to put back in!!!
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1997 BG5 Subaru Outback - Now with STI boost... |
02-03-2005, 06:50 PM | #65 |
Junior Member
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thanks ahb11m, i guess i do need some exercises, been sitting in front of a screen for ages.
i just had a run with my car, reason 1, to check if the front feels any different, reason 2, oh my god i just can't help driving it. edit: thanks guys this is so much fun with your help.
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2001 Mazda 323 SP20 Sunburst Yellow Sports Hatch |
02-03-2005, 09:29 PM | #66 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Hang, I did the Cspot just recently myself.
I too found the strut hard to turn, what I reccomend is getting the big socket (17mm?) on the nut on the top of the strut, and just turn in the direction you need. It will have no load on it, so the whole strut will just turn while not loosening the nut at at all! You'll need to jack the car up a ****load too... Gav. |
02-03-2005, 11:18 PM | #67 |
Junior Member
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nice Gav, thanks. when i looked at the strut, i did tried to think of some tools that i can use to turn the whole thing, but i didn't dare to touch the centre nut. maybe i'll give it another try.
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2001 Mazda 323 SP20 Sunburst Yellow Sports Hatch |
02-03-2005, 11:24 PM | #68 |
living in the past man
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*First post updated*
centre nut is seized up most of the time, and is hard to turn when its got the pressure of a spring against it!!
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1997 BG5 Subaru Outback - Now with STI boost... |
03-03-2005, 08:59 AM | #69 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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If he jacks the car up enough the strut will almost virtually fall out, it might need some help. Once it's out of the bolt holes it's very hard to turn by hand I found, but since the top nut is siezed up or very tight, it makes a great way to turn the strut assembly around with the socket wrench.
Next thing is the bloody strut will be hard to get back up through the bolt holes now, I grabbed the wheel with my spare hand and lifted it up while guiding it with the socket wrench on the centre nut still. This worked really well, I just put my my little foot under the tyre so that it wouldn't fall out again, and jimmied my way to the jack and let the car down enough just so that the tyre was touch the ground. Then I tightened up the bolts again on the WRRRRRRRRRRRR touque setting... Gav. |
13-03-2005, 10:52 PM | #70 |
living in the past man
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wher'd the sticky go?
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1997 BG5 Subaru Outback - Now with STI boost... |
14-03-2005, 12:19 AM | #71 | |
Administrator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: melb.vic.au
Car: AZ-1, Astina Hardtop Turbo, BJ Protege, Beetle
Posts: 16,525
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Quote:
just let a mod know and we'll re-sticky any threads
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jdmparts.rupewrecht.com Sourcing your not-quite-overnight parts from Japan WRECHT--|--SLOWTEGE--|--BEETLE--|--SUBSTITUTE--|--AZ-1 |
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10-12-2006, 11:02 AM | #72 |
Crazy Member
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Where do I find the old post that had the settings for this illustrated ? It seems to have been replaced!
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King Spring Lows, TWM short shifter, split eardrums, blah blah blah and a little voice saying "I wish I had a turbo" Updated 2007-03-19: Readers Rides Finally upgraded from the stock headunit |
10-12-2006, 11:37 AM | #73 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Enjoy!
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11-12-2006, 10:00 PM | #74 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sutherland Sydney
Car: astina BA 1997 1.8Ltr
Posts: 609
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Guys....has any one done this with BA astina. It has only 3 bolts
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1997 Astina BA11P3, 5 Door Hatch, 1.8 DOHC, 5 Speed, 90,000 kms |
11-12-2006, 10:19 PM | #75 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Car: n/a
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Quote:
ryan |
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20-12-2008, 01:24 PM | #76 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wagga
Car: Mazda 323 Astina '02
Posts: 55
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Hey guys, was wondering if someone could fix the dead link for the image?
It seems like a pretty good mod :P |
20-12-2008, 05:25 PM | #77 |
living in the past man
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try here:
http://www.floptical.net/mazda/ or in particular here: http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/02-11.PDF i can't find the original image, must of deleted after posting to old host!!!
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1997 BG5 Subaru Outback - Now with STI boost... |
04-04-2009, 08:32 PM | #78 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Sydney
Car: Astina BG 1991 - Rx7 S4
Posts: 105
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Just posting a trick to cheaply check your camber
1 Drive on to a flat surface, eg driveway, with the wheels pointing straight. Don't reverse or jack up the car 2 Place a spirit level vertically next to the wheel so it passes through the center of the wheel, basically parallel to the wheel. Rest the top of the level against the guard and move the bottom of the level in or out until the bubble is in the center of the lines. 3 Measure the distance between the top of the wheel rim to the level and then the bottom of the rim to the level. This is based on your rim not being bent. 4 The difference between the dimensions can be used to calculate the camber angle Sin x-1 = difference top to bottom/rim diameter edge to edge difference top to bottom = 7mm, eg top 30mm bottom 23mm, 30-23 =7mm rim diameter edge to edge = 390mm measured directly off my 14" rim Sin x-1 = 7/390 = 1.028º If the bottom dimension is smaller than the top you have negative camber When you get good you should be able to get good repeatably Remember if you change the strut top you will have to resettle the car by driving around the block My RX7 on the rear has 15mm top to bottom on a 15" rim and wears on the inside, the front has 8mm My BG Astina has 6mm on the left and 0mm on the right To check if your spirit level is accurate place it against a door jam on your house and see how close it is, then spin the level around so that you are using the other side and the same bubble. Both sides should read the same Remember the guard is different distances to the wheel on both sides of the car so don't be supprised if they are different, you just want the difference between the top and bottom If you want a neat picture of where the wear will be try this http://www.michelintransport.com/ple...ERTURE&lang=EN Last edited by Old Grey; 04-04-2009 at 08:53 PM. |
05-04-2009, 12:02 AM | #79 |
HONEYWELL REPRESENT
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Salisbury - Inner City
Car: 1997 BA Hardtop - Had a 2003 BJii J48 Sport20, and 2x bg SOHC astina hatches
Posts: 5,011
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hey mate. do i still have this picture???? would like to do this mod. but don't quite know how?????
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05-04-2009, 12:00 PM | #80 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Logan prefecture
Car: Touge monster
Posts: 7,585
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Na, can't find it. But you want the coloured marker on the strut top to point to the front corner of the side you are working on.
ie: front right strut marker should point to the front right wheel/headlight/corner/etc... Cheers, Gav. |
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