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29-07-2011, 12:58 PM | #82 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: melb.vic.au
Car: AZ-1, Astina Hardtop Turbo, BJ Protege, Beetle
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Don't forget the rear calipers are the same.
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29-07-2011, 01:55 PM | #83 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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Yeah. At the wreckers now and there's heaps of 626 with complete parts, but are they compatible? Also there are a few hatches with i4 engines but 5 stud. Early models. Will these fit? They are pretty much all missing the CV joints, but is this what you've called a stub axle? I'm hopeless!
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29-07-2011, 02:16 PM | #85 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: melb.vic.au
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No idea on 626.
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29-07-2011, 02:18 PM | #86 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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I'll come tomorrow and there's a 4cyl hardtop and I'll convert it and then take the finished project home. This is the only way I see how I can end up with the correct parts. All of this to get those tourings to fit :P
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29-07-2011, 05:36 PM | #87 |
コスモ
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
Posts: 7,888
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Some info and pics on my current setup. All from BA V6
Front knuckles, disks and calipers (ABS sensors would bolt to the knuckes and act on a tone ring, where fitted, on the CV housing) Rear knuckles and disks only (not using the ABS sensors) http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showt...t=14253&page=4
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14-09-2011, 06:46 PM | #88 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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ok reviving this again, and restart the search, now that my CV joints are fairly well rusted on... I need to buy:
lower ball joints *as they are bigger as mentioned above?* knuckle and calipers. extra wheel nuts and some 5 stud wheels. Rotors and v6 pads. undo lower ball joint, remove gearbox end of cv (as my hub end is stuck!), brake hose, and 2 bolts for the strut, undo tie-rod thingo too... pull it off in one big mess, get new cv's to suit a G series box, replace cv in the gearbox, bolt on new ball joint, knuckle, connect brake hose, new rotors/brakes and hey presto? on the rear, remove brakes and whatnot, keep caliper. remove the 4 stud hubs (how?) and replace with 5 stud hubs, new 5 stud rotos and keep existing pads (or buy new ones) is that all? on the rear, whats involved in removing it?
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14-09-2011, 06:48 PM | #89 |
obsessed-incomplete-broke
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
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of course i need to swap this bloody gearbox before hand. GAH. so i cant do that (unless i want to buy 2x cv shafts- although i have 2 new ones awiting for my HT I could use for RWC...
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14-09-2011, 06:56 PM | #90 |
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front-
rotors caliper pads upright 5 stud hub rear 5 stud hub 5 hole rotor as a minimum. but if you are supplying new rotors, then new pads would be the go also. |
15-09-2011, 07:51 AM | #91 |
コスモ
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
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Rears,
Jack car and place on stands Remove wheels Release handbrake Unclip brake hose from strut Undo two bolts holding the caliper to the hub, remove caliper (idealy at this point you'd have something ready to support the caliper and not let it dangle in the wind.) Remove bolts holding hub in place, remove hub Reverse procedure... Took about 30 minutes per side, fronts took much longer as I did tie-rods and lower balljoints at the same time.
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