|
20-10-2011, 06:50 AM | #141 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: USA
Car: .
Posts: 2,623
|
Quote:
__________________
Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years |
|
20-10-2011, 10:41 PM | #142 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Australia
Car: 2002 Mazda 323 Astina 2.5 V6 manual
Posts: 324
|
I tried using a cheap microphone attached to the engine block while tuning the emanage ultimate. Live was too difficult, but recording on the laptop worked well. I could hear the noise change with ignition timing even before the actual rattling started. Could hear all sorts of other stuff too, like gearbox workings etc. Just thought I'd throw that out there in case someone wants to try it.
__________________
2002 Mazda 323 Astina 2.5 V6 manual. KL-ZE 2.5 V6 with stock intake, stock headers, Magnaflow cat, custom midpipe with extra 12inch hotdog, Racing Beat catback. BC Racing coilover kit, Mazdaspeed 25mm front stabiliser, Progress 22mm rear stabiliser, GTSpec front and rear strut tower braces. Enkei RPF1 15x7, Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 205/50 R15, RDA slotted rotors, HPX pads. SOLD |
21-10-2011, 09:02 AM | #143 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: sydney
Car: Mazda BJ SP20 Turbocharged
Posts: 629
|
I have a n/a sp20 with fs-de that runs duel fuel lpg.
i know the knock sensor definitely works, as the timing retards when lpg vs. petrol and apart from switching off the injectors when lpg is running, there is no other wiring or ecu mods done. |
21-10-2011, 10:18 AM | #144 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: USA
Car: .
Posts: 2,623
|
I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm just saying the sensitivity of it and how much the ECU compensates/reaction time is very limited
once you do actual engine mods, its rubbish did I mention that the J&S does individual cylinder knock detection and timing adjustment? none of the other systems I'm aware of can do this, that include stock systems... they retard all or nothing
__________________
Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years |
26-10-2011, 08:39 PM | #145 |
Junior Member
|
Would a poorly adjusted belt on the alternator cause surges during coasting? My belt has started squealing like a biatch!!! Was wondering if this belt is too loose and is slipping big time. Stuck my head in the engine bay while it was screaming but the both belts are spinning. Not sure if it's slipping a lot or there is something else?
My thought was that if it is slipping over the alternator then the ECU may be bumping up the revs cos the alternator is not putting out enough voltage. Anyone?? |
26-10-2011, 08:41 PM | #146 |
Junior Member
|
With my head in the engine bay while it's squealing I can smell a burning rubber smell. This goes when the squealing stops. Which I assume is once the belt warms up and becomes tacky.
|
26-10-2011, 09:26 PM | #147 |
AstinaGT Regular
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Australia
Car: 2002 Mazda 323 Astina 2.5 V6 manual
Posts: 324
|
Tighten the belt, but not too much. You can figure out how by looking at how it works, just a lock nut and a tensioning bolt. I overtightened once and the water pump started leaking from the shaft seal. If it is tight and still squeels, replace the belt. Haynes manual for Mazda 626 includes maintenance procedures for the FS engine (same as in SP20, similar to FP 1.8). About $30 from Supercheap.
__________________
2002 Mazda 323 Astina 2.5 V6 manual. KL-ZE 2.5 V6 with stock intake, stock headers, Magnaflow cat, custom midpipe with extra 12inch hotdog, Racing Beat catback. BC Racing coilover kit, Mazdaspeed 25mm front stabiliser, Progress 22mm rear stabiliser, GTSpec front and rear strut tower braces. Enkei RPF1 15x7, Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 205/50 R15, RDA slotted rotors, HPX pads. SOLD |
31-10-2011, 08:21 PM | #148 |
Junior Member
|
I think my problems are all nearly solved. I have fixed the loose belt and have gain some extra power (?? dont ask me). I have good idle although still a little high and the car surges when she coasts and the rpms hit 1500. (So if I am heading down a hill and take my foot off the gas, as soon as the rpms lower to 1500... BANG, they bounce up to 1900, then down to 1500, then up to 1800 so forth until they finally peter out at about 1450.
Tipped the MAF plugs off the sensor today. Took 2 starts to get the car running, but then it seemed perfect. Idle perfect. And under test drive no surge. Will get it replaced and hopefully all my problems are solved. Keep you all posted. |
31-10-2011, 09:15 PM | #149 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: USA
Car: .
Posts: 2,623
|
again, I suspect an out of adjustment throttle sensor... you should have a look
__________________
Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years |
31-10-2011, 09:36 PM | #150 |
Junior Member
|
Do you really still think this is the case, The Man. Even after the car ran perfect without the MAF sensor connected (it was gutless as all get out but it didn't have any of the previous symptoms)
|
01-11-2011, 04:00 AM | #151 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Auchenflower, Brisbane
Car: Blue SP20
Posts: 2,782
|
Think about your post for a bit. What the IAC does and how it works.
__________________
|
01-11-2011, 11:19 AM | #152 |
Junior Member
|
It increases idle RPM by opening an air valve. Not sure what you're driving at?
|
01-11-2011, 01:39 PM | #153 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: USA
Car: .
Posts: 2,623
|
the IAC is not the TPS
the computer controls the IAC, which is an output... the TPS can be adjusted and YOU control it as it is an input
__________________
Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years |
01-11-2011, 02:45 PM | #154 |
Junior Member
|
The MAF is also an input. Once this input is removed the car runs right (except gutless). This to me would indicate that the car is not processing the MAF input correctly. If the TPS was misaligned wouldn't the car still have the same issues when the MAF was disconnected?
Also the car idles fine (albeit high). With the MAF disconnected the idle is perfect. IAC problems would either be high RPM permanently, valve stuck open, or near stall when the car was cold, valve closed. At the end of the day it is only a valve. |
01-11-2011, 02:48 PM | #155 |
Junior Member
|
Wouldn't TPS show permanent symptoms? As the car would never think the throttle was 0%. So the car would be at say 1 or 2% throttle with the foot off the gas?
|
01-11-2011, 08:27 PM | #156 |
Junior Member
|
Never argue with THE MAN!!!!
Clean out the MAF. No diff. Adjust the TPS. First go I killed it. Surges across the band. Barely got the car moving!! Little adjustment. Same problem presented. Little adjustment. And now perfect!!!! Car hammers across the band. No surging at all. Perfect idle. Even with A/C on. My car is now DONE. CLOSE THIS POST!!!!!! |
01-11-2011, 08:31 PM | #157 |
Junior Member
|
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to assisting the repair of my car. Your advice as been invaluable. My three problems turned out to be 1. Cheap EBay Mod/Trick. 2. Buggered IAC. 3. TPS adjustment.
Points go out to PHIL. For his mind boggling troubleshooting. And Finally THE MAN. |
01-11-2011, 08:45 PM | #158 |
Junior Member
|
Sleepy Gonzalez. I am sorry I forgot to thank you for the info regarding the Alternator Belt. Greatly appreciated. Cheers.
|
01-11-2011, 09:24 PM | #160 | |
Banned
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisneyland, Queensland
Car: 2002 Mazda Frankenstina
Posts: 2,868
|
Quote:
|
|
Tags |
323, engine, mazda, rebuilt, turbo |
|
|