Oil light.

Ben · 29-11-2011, 11:01 PM

This may sound VERY stupid, infact, this is a very stupid question... but anyways...

The oil light on my SP20 stays on while the ignition is on, it clears when the car is running. (Engine on) The only reason for this question is, all my other cars they went off pretty much straight away when the ignition is on.

I did consult the car manual, but it just told me what the light was. No help to me what so ever. So since this is a astina website, im sure someone can tell me if its suppose to stay on!

Thanks guys!

phildough · 29-11-2011, 11:25 PM

It comes on when you have no oil pressure.
It should go away as soon as you start your car.
Its just hooked up to a simple circuit that is if there is no pressure the light is on.

Ben · 29-11-2011, 11:28 PM

Righto, thats all i needed to know! Just that all my other cars i've had it turns off when the fan comes on, and when this one didn't i was like "WHY YOU DO THAT!?!?!"

Thanks Phil

project.r.racing · 30-11-2011, 04:46 PM

Then you SP20 is the only car you have owned with a correct working oil sensor.

Ben · 30-11-2011, 08:47 PM

Yeah, that doesn't surprise me lol... First car was flat out having a oil light...

phildough · 06-12-2011, 09:01 AM

The oil light used to flick on all the time when my car was warm at idle on the old engine.
I had it tested and there was low oil pressure.
I was told to replace the engine as no one knew why.

swift jimmy · 06-12-2011, 04:53 PM

Im in the same boat as phildough.. but that said when they tested mine they said it is getting pressure but 1psi less then what required for the switch to turn off (dont know if thats true or not thats what i was told)... also replaced oil pressure switch aswell but still does it but that said doesnt do it for like 2-3 weeks after replacing oil.. next car service im dropping the sump to make sure nothing blocking the oil pickup

DavoAust · 06-12-2011, 04:55 PM

Things I'd look at:
- Oil pickup in the sump
- Oil pressure relief/bypass
- Oil pump

If the relief is sticking you'd get those symptoms

swift jimmy · 06-12-2011, 05:15 PM

for the n00bs playing at home.. where is the oil pressure relief/bypass located?

Orion · 06-12-2011, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swift jimmy

for the n00bs playing at home.. where is the oil pressure relief/bypass located?

It is integrated as part of the oil pump. Not easy to get to and check

DavoAust · 06-12-2011, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orion

It is integrated as part of the oil pump. Not easy to get to and check

Yeah it sucks to get to. You're better off just replacing the entire pump when you pull the timing belt

phildough · 06-12-2011, 06:29 PM

I looked at the cost of replacing the oil pump.
Its a complete pig of a job and the oil pump is not cheap.
Also if it is not teh fault you have just spent ALOT of money on something that didn't fix the problem.
I temporarily solved my oil light problem by fitting an oil pressure gauge to confirm the fault and stop the light flashing to piss me off.
I fixed the problem by fitting a FS-ZE which if compared to the cost of replacing a stuffed oil pump isn't that far off.
And it is a HELL of a lot more fun.

rodhog · 06-12-2011, 10:37 PM

Oil- pressure relief -or by pass is a common - Actually becoming a more common problem according to some recent reports by both - oil companies ? and the MTA and I think it's the AMEA or similar.

The report I read - claimed more and more members were finding cars as new as only 5 years old have Gummed up bypass valves. Moslty on engines requiring thin 0-30 and 10-30 oils. Either incorrect oil used or more commonly -found - it seemed European and Japanese the listed BMW ALFA and HONDA. As commonly found with poor oil change history. They even had I think it's been aroudn the net the photos from a holden or nissan dealer with car that had burnt all it's oil and turned into greese.

An old trick I used to help clean it out was the old Diesel scrub out. did wonders for many abused engines.

Clean_Cookie · 06-12-2011, 10:41 PM

Care to elaborate on this diesel treatment rod?

TheMAN · 06-12-2011, 11:18 PM

there's nothing wrong with the "thin" 0W30 or 10W30 oils.... in fact it's "thick" by today's standards! what's wrong though is the varying quality of oils available in the market... not all brands of oils are created equally and some brands of oils are not formulated for high performance usage or tolerance to high heat/high shear loads

you can safely use oils of that viscosity, provided you chose wisely! there is no difference in engine wear when a good quality oil is used, and you'll greatly benefit from less parasitic losses thus improved fuel economy

the only real issue with using 20 or 30 weight oils in some engines (depends on which one) is oil consumption, but good oils usually counteract this because of low volatility

DavoAust · 06-12-2011, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMAN

the only real issue with using 20 or 30 weight oils in some engines (depends on which one) is oil consumption, but good oils usually counteract this because of low volatility

For a second I thought you actually knew oil terminology. But you should also know volatility is barely an issue with modern oils, especially synthetics, and it has very little to do with oil consumption in older engines, ie. the BJ. Its equivalent to complaining about carbies when you're running EFI.

0-20W and 0-30W aren't 20 and 30 weight oils. They're 0 weight oils witthe properties of 20 and 30 weight oils. The biggest difference is when cold. Why? Because oil doesn't thin when warm, it thickens when it gets cold.

If you're going to talk oils about it at least know your stuff, here's a good start http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=136052

29-11-2011, 11:01 PM	#1
Ben Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Sunshine Coast Car: MPS Posts: 1,939	Oil light. This may sound VERY stupid, infact, this is a very stupid question... but anyways... The oil light on my SP20 stays on while the ignition is on, it clears when the car is running. (Engine on) The only reason for this question is, all my other cars they went off pretty much straight away when the ignition is on. I did consult the car manual, but it just told me what the light was. No help to me what so ever. So since this is a astina website, im sure someone can tell me if its suppose to stay on! Thanks guys!

29-11-2011, 11:28 PM	#3
Ben Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Sunshine Coast Car: MPS Posts: 1,939	Righto, thats all i needed to know! Just that all my other cars i've had it turns off when the fan comes on, and when this one didn't i was like "WHY YOU DO THAT!?!?!" Thanks Phil Last edited by Ben; 29-11-2011 at 11:30 PM.

06-12-2011, 04:55 PM	#8
DavoAust Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Brisbane Car: Red '93 3000GT / Black '08 Ninja 250R Posts: 2,930 View Photos By: DavoAust	Things I'd look at: - Oil pickup in the sump - Oil pressure relief/bypass - Oil pump If the relief is sticking you'd get those symptoms __________________ Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you. '97 1.8L Hardtop '93 3.0L TT 3000GT

06-12-2011, 06:29 PM	#12
phildough Banned Join Date: May 2006 Location: Brisneyland, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Frankenstina Posts: 2,868 View Photos By: phildough	I looked at the cost of replacing the oil pump. Its a complete pig of a job and the oil pump is not cheap. Also if it is not teh fault you have just spent ALOT of money on something that didn't fix the problem. I temporarily solved my oil light problem by fitting an oil pressure gauge to confirm the fault and stop the light flashing to piss me off. I fixed the problem by fitting a FS-ZE which if compared to the cost of replacing a stuffed oil pump isn't that far off. And it is a HELL of a lot more fun. Last edited by phildough; 06-12-2011 at 06:31 PM.

06-12-2011, 10:41 PM	#14
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	Care to elaborate on this diesel treatment rod? __________________ Worklog

29-11-2011, 11:25 PM	#2
phildough Banned Join Date: May 2006 Location: Brisneyland, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Frankenstina Posts: 2,868 View Photos By: phildough	It comes on when you have no oil pressure. It should go away as soon as you start your car. Its just hooked up to a simple circuit that is if there is no pressure the light is on.

30-11-2011, 04:46 PM	#4
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	Then you SP20 is the only car you have owned with a correct working oil sensor.

30-11-2011, 08:47 PM	#5
Ben Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Sunshine Coast Car: MPS Posts: 1,939	Yeah, that doesn't surprise me lol... First car was flat out having a oil light...

06-12-2011, 09:01 AM	#6
phildough Banned Join Date: May 2006 Location: Brisneyland, Queensland Car: 2002 Mazda Frankenstina Posts: 2,868 View Photos By: phildough	The oil light used to flick on all the time when my car was warm at idle on the old engine. I had it tested and there was low oil pressure. I was told to replace the engine as no one knew why.

06-12-2011, 04:53 PM	#7
swift jimmy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Sutherland Shire NSW Car: Was '01 SP20 with FS-ZE Posts: 717	Im in the same boat as phildough.. but that said when they tested mine they said it is getting pressure but 1psi less then what required for the switch to turn off (dont know if thats true or not thats what i was told)... also replaced oil pressure switch aswell but still does it but that said doesnt do it for like 2-3 weeks after replacing oil.. next car service im dropping the sump to make sure nothing blocking the oil pickup

06-12-2011, 05:15 PM	#9
swift jimmy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Sutherland Shire NSW Car: Was '01 SP20 with FS-ZE Posts: 717	for the n00bs playing at home.. where is the oil pressure relief/bypass located?

06-12-2011, 10:37 PM	#13
rodhog Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sydney Lakemba Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT Posts: 2,024 View Photos By: rodhog	Oil- pressure relief -or by pass is a common - Actually becoming a more common problem according to some recent reports by both - oil companies ? and the MTA and I think it's the AMEA or similar. The report I read - claimed more and more members were finding cars as new as only 5 years old have Gummed up bypass valves. Moslty on engines requiring thin 0-30 and 10-30 oils. Either incorrect oil used or more commonly -found - it seemed European and Japanese the listed BMW ALFA and HONDA. As commonly found with poor oil change history. They even had I think it's been aroudn the net the photos from a holden or nissan dealer with car that had burnt all it's oil and turned into greese. An old trick I used to help clean it out was the old Diesel scrub out. did wonders for many abused engines.

06-12-2011, 11:18 PM	#15
TheMAN Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: USA Car: . Posts: 2,623	there's nothing wrong with the "thin" 0W30 or 10W30 oils.... in fact it's "thick" by today's standards! what's wrong though is the varying quality of oils available in the market... not all brands of oils are created equally and some brands of oils are not formulated for high performance usage or tolerance to high heat/high shear loads you can safely use oils of that viscosity, provided you chose wisely! there is no difference in engine wear when a good quality oil is used, and you'll greatly benefit from less parasitic losses thus improved fuel economy the only real issue with using 20 or 30 weight oils in some engines (depends on which one) is oil consumption, but good oils usually counteract this because of low volatility __________________ Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years Last edited by TheMAN; 06-12-2011 at 11:20 PM.