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Old 23-10-2011, 10:44 PM   #61
Orion
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I understand that you're running stock intercooler pipes and a stock intercooler... there's no doubt that's a performance bottleneck, but it doesn't make sense that you had to run 8psi in order to get the same performance as a stock MSP

got any theories?
I still maintain that because we have 9.7:1 pistons in our Aussie-spec cars, he has had to be more conservative with the tune, and therefore the power has suffered a little bit.

I could be wrong, but that is my theory.
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Old 24-10-2011, 03:13 AM   #62
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Lovely looking car mate! I wish they did the white one over here!

If you need the UK TD air con parts, I'd be happy to arrange shipping etc
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Old 24-10-2011, 06:00 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Orion View Post
I still maintain that because we have 9.7:1 pistons in our Aussie-spec cars, he has had to be more conservative with the tune, and therefore the power has suffered a little bit.

I could be wrong, but that is my theory.
that's a possibility... I still don't like how his power delivery was all over the place though... the dyno graph wasn't very smooth at all!
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Old 24-10-2011, 02:14 PM   #64
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purchased 2x sets of the rear mazda 6 wagon 03-08 wiper mod
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Old 27-10-2011, 07:32 PM   #65
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Lovely looking car mate! I wish they did the white one over here!

If you need the UK TD air con parts, I'd be happy to arrange shipping etc
Thanks for the offer.

When I performed the original conversion, I would of taken you up on the offer
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Old 28-10-2011, 09:48 PM   #66
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new dyno result.

unchanged boost level since old run.
new dyno result has 2.5" exhaust and 2.5" plumbed fmic.

need to purchase a electronic boost solenoid to have wired in and have the ems control the boost and elimate that 15psi boost spike


Last edited by familiagtx; 30-10-2011 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 31-10-2011, 10:06 PM   #67
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that's not much of a difference from your other dyno... is it still your "power limited" tune or is it all out?

you're still losing power past 5252rpm... there's no doubt in my mind that it's attributed to the low end torque characteristics of the 626 intake

now, I understand that you're actually making more power using the 626 intake compared to the stock VICS intake, but I really think it is a tuning problem causing you to lose power like this

you should NOT be making so little power running that much boost
if anything, you're stressing the internals more this way than running lower boost with greater power efficiency

yes, I understand you are running a very conservative tune... too conservative IMO
yes, I understand you have 9.7:1 compression pistons compared to me

but regardless of actual power, you need to be aiming for a curve like mine (no thread jack or bragging intended):

This was the first run on that muggy autumn day... torque couldn't be recorded because the RPM clamp was faulty

after the shop messed around with the RPM clamp a little, he barely got it to work and so here is a mild heat soaked run:

notice how flat the torque curve is... peak power is still at rev limiter... VICS crossover point is at 4850rpm (US FS-DE/FS-DET stock setting) instead of 5250rpm (euro/aussie FS-DE/JDM FS-ZE setting)... in your dyno plot, the torque curve is all over the place, which is partly attributed to an air flow issue (volumetric efficiency)

without the mazdaspeed exhaust cam and FS-ZE intake, I expect the peak power to move down to 6000rpm instead, using your FS-DE intake (a modified VTCS-less US FS-DE intake should also provide similar results)... this estimate can be felt with my butt dyno when driving my friend's built up MSP running 25psi running only the non-US intake cam and VTCS removed from his intake manifold

the VICS intake manifold got a bad rep on the US forum because certain vendors manipulated the dyno results in order to sell something superficial... people who fitted the 626 intakes say the car "ran better" because their butt dyno feels torque, not power... the 626 intake is designed for low RPM operation, hence torquey low RPM... turbo boost makes up for the lack of higher rpm power, but only to some extent

also, you have to ask and wonder why mazda rated the 626 with less power than the protege.... the 626 never got the VICS intake, while the protege did... of course the JDM capella got the FS-ZE, but that doesn't really count

the other problem itself was the fact that the US intake cam was mismatched to the VICS intake... that cam originally came from the 626, which with its very conservative valve timings, it did not took advantage of the VICS... in fact, made it worse because of the mismatch... hence why "great results" were experienced when people swapped to the 626 intake... but with the use of the non-US intake cam, VICS actually worked, providing the correct air velocities and resonance pressure waves in the intake (VICS depends on this, much like VRIS)

since you already have the better intake cam, use of your stock VICS intake with careful tuning, and a combination of properly matched parts can allow you to give you more gains than just boost alone
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:34 AM   #68
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the power tapers off after 6000rpm with my motor.

you have pointed it out, its all about the airflow and air speed.

i'll be installed a ecu controlled boost control when i get a moment, and map out from 8psi to 12psi.

that will help control the spike and give a bit more power and a flatter curve towards 6000rpm
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:51 AM   #69
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I think if you put the stock VICS intake back on and tune it to open the flaps at 4850rpm, you will get that flat torque curve back... I believe the stock ECU uses different maps between closed and open for the VICS
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:52 AM   #70
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Im happy with the car and its result as is...

If I decide to not sell the car and keep it for a long while.

and decide to do build the motor and par gearset and lsd... I will be concern about tuning and its results after forking out a fair bit of money
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:30 PM   #71
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well you only need to go through the expense of uprated gears once you try to make power above 200kw.... the stock gearbox is fine with an LSD for power levels below this, and this has been proven already.... the only ones who break them are the ones who drive like idiots

obviously, if you plan on making the car a race car and going to the drag strip, then you will need to build up everything... but for a daily driven 200kw car, stock gearbox will be fine as long as you are not rough on it

but since your power levels seriously tapers off past 5200rpm, I'd fix the underlying causes first before I'd even venture to adding more power... you might gain some power in the process, but not big power like big turbos or big boost of course
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Last edited by TheMAN; 01-11-2011 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 08-11-2011, 09:17 AM   #72
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Photos from the FMIC.
Ive finally installed the second piece of the mazdaspeed injen intake that hides the pod infront of the passenger wheel arch.

I'll take some better ones, when I get some time to clean the car up




















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Old 13-11-2011, 08:54 PM   #73
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fmic pics added
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:13 AM   #74
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been a while since ive added to this thread.

purchase motor and gearbox that used to be in Q2CD1S's sp20.

going into hi-comp performance on wednesday until its finished
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Old 16-11-2012, 07:58 PM   #75
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a fair bit of work is currently in progress

* engine bay stripped
* preparing new engine with the following:
reusing my modified rocker cover with my customise trigger & modified camshaft intake pulley. reusing the 626 intake manifold non vics, but getting rid of the 626 throttle body and 626 egr pipe and going back to my original sp20 throttlebody & sp20 egr pipe with the throttle cable reduction on light acceleration.
. new genuine water pump
. new genuine timing belt
. new genuine crank and camshaft seals
. new genuine rocker cover gasket
. new genuine head to intake manifold gasket
. new genuine plenum to throttle body gasket
. new genuine exhaust manifold gasket
. new turbo gaskets
* having the original mazdaspeed protege 2003.5 GT2554R turbo rebuilt with GT2860RS spec
* having new gearbox already prefitted with PAR straight cut synchro mesh gearset with mazdaspeed lsd. will clean and repaint exterior smick prior to reinstallation into the car.
* getting all my custom intercooler piping removed and powdercoated for a nicer finish and better rust protection.
* brand new exedy heavy duty clutch kit with my original flywheel machined.

I need to take some photo and keep this updated
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Old 16-11-2012, 10:46 PM   #76
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can't wait to see what it puts out man how much boost you aiming for?
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Old 18-11-2012, 10:05 PM   #77
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With a much larger turbo, exhaust, manifold.

This motor has produced a peak power of 260kw at the wheels at race solutions.

My goal is 150kw at the wheels and having a low boost setting for everyday driving. This will be easily achievable
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Old 21-11-2012, 08:48 AM   #78
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are you the black SP20 at concord? or is yours still white? coz for some reason I keep thinking you have a black sp20 as well...
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Old 21-11-2012, 08:55 AM   #79
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you better lower the compression to 9.1 or less if you're going to run that bigger turbo
and no, you can't really rebuild a GT2554R to a GT2860RS, you can go to a GT2854R though which works better IMO
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Old 21-11-2012, 10:02 AM   #80
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you better lower the compression to 9.1 or less if you're going to run that bigger turbo
and no, you can't really rebuild a GT2554R to a GT2860RS, you can go to a GT2854R though which works better IMO
its a Built Forged motor (forged pistons 40thou oversize and forged rods)... unknown specific specs...

Has been running a garret GT3082r, Stage 2 Cams, 600cc injectors making

made on 13psi 167kw atw,

made on 17-18psi 195kw atw

plan for this engine was to run up to 25psi of boost.
No idea what it was on when it made the 260kw... think it was 26psi. cant remember.


Just asking... but why run a low boost setting for daily driving, when you have a forged motor. As seen with Spykeys.. he has been achieving the 150Kw mark out of a stock motor reliably for quite some time.
personally would be aiming for the 200kw mark. Means you would actually be running a Disco Potato dead in its efficiency range and you wouldn't have quite large amounts of lag which they produce when not pushed.

or... you aim for the 150-170kw range... with the high flowed 25 and actually run some aggresive maps with increased timing high would give you crap all lag and make it nice and responsive.
But then again... looking for response... shouldn't really be looking at the garrets and that turbo set up.

thought about doing water meth injection?
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