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Old 17-02-2013, 07:45 PM   #101
Rafferty
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Originally Posted by shaley323 View Post
oem footwell lighting kit installed
I like these! Where'd you get them from? Any link?
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Old 17-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #102
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Edwin on post 65 you will see there is a bend in the bar before it bends for the ends resulting in an angle that wont work as a mounting/bushing point.
don't see it
all I see is that your bar looks like the mazdaspeed one, which requires the bar to be lowered slightly more away from the crossmember due to its shape!
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Old 17-02-2013, 09:18 PM   #103
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don't see it
all I see is that your bar looks like the mazdaspeed one, which requires the bar to be lowered slightly more away from the crossmember due to its shape!
next time I get under it I will get a photo of the bar in line with the crossmember mounting bolts and you will see that the wholesale suspension bar won't work with the awr clunk-fix brackets, as for the end links they are the same length as the mazdaspeed ones and give no trouble at all.
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Old 17-02-2013, 09:21 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafferty View Post
I like these! Where'd you get them from? Any link?
from Alex Todd via protege parts for sale
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Old 17-02-2013, 10:15 PM   #105
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*scratches head* thought my MPS had these, had to go out and look. Turns out it doesnt, it turns on the map lights as well, thats why i was confused haha.

Looks good. I suggest changing them to a LED for maximum blind-ness!
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Old 17-02-2013, 10:23 PM   #106
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next time I get under it I will get a photo of the bar in line with the crossmember mounting bolts and you will see that the wholesale suspension bar won't work with the awr clunk-fix brackets, as for the end links they are the same length as the mazdaspeed ones and give no trouble at all.
I wasn't talking about the clunk fix brackets... AWR doesn't even make those!



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Old 18-02-2013, 05:28 AM   #107
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understood Edwin the locks on the swaybar used to hit but not since I fabricated 3mm aluminium shims to go between the crossmember and the bush/saddle assy. may do later Ben but lighting is better than picture shows.

Last edited by JDM323; 18-02-2013 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 18-02-2013, 05:06 PM   #108
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from Alex Todd via protege parts for sale
I did a net search and couldn't find them... Can you. Direct me please?
Cheers
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Old 18-02-2013, 05:25 PM   #109
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oops I forgot it's a closed group on facebook but if you like I will find out If any more are available
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Old 18-02-2013, 05:31 PM   #110
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understood Edwin the locks on the swaybar used to hit but not since I fabricated 3mm aluminium shims to go between the crossmember and the bush/saddle assy. may do later Ben but lighting is better than picture shows.
in any case, the regular rear crossmember is weaker and be prone to breakage from a larger sway bar... this is why the MSF crossmember had significant reinforcements made around the sway bar mounts... the AWR brackets is a cheap easy way to reinforce the crossmember and prevent a breakage problem

I have seen many people break their regular crossmembers from larger rear sway bars

the other solution is to buy clunk fix brackets that relocates the mounting points... more expensive but works good as long as you have tokico blues or illuminas... it puts more load on the end link tabs, so breakage is also a risk if stock struts are used
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Old 18-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #111
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I am also using the softer setting (end hole) on the swaybar, I don't see how those brackets would make it stronger because the torsional force would then put more force on the stock mounts due to the laws of leverage. if it breaks then it will go to the engineers for reinforcement or I will track down a mazdaspeed crossmember like you did.
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Old 18-02-2013, 06:25 PM   #112
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the rear sway bar doesn't just exert torsional forces, but bending forces also due to the poor factory location of the mounting points.... this is the cause of the infamous mazdaspeed rear sway bar clunk (the soft springs on the MSF/MSP exacerbated this... very stiff springs almost eliminates this)... this is why the clunk fix brackets were created to replicate the racing beat prototype design which makes the sway bar produce only torsional forces
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Old 19-02-2013, 10:02 PM   #113
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oem footwell lighting kit installed
mine is bettar

I wrote an English LHD how-to for it too
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Old 19-02-2013, 10:23 PM   #114
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do i have to take a pic of mine?? lol,

now but i like that factory look of shaley323's, ed your's looks like mine but mines blue to match with everything else in my car haha, i do like the look of them AWR swaybar mounts though
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Old 19-02-2013, 10:36 PM   #115
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mine is bettar
Bettar? What are you talking about MAN? Your god damn steering wheel is on the wrong side of the car. Clearly broken
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Old 20-02-2013, 12:16 AM   #116
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shifting with the right hand is the right way!
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Old 20-02-2013, 12:17 AM   #117
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do i have to take a pic of mine?? lol,

now but i like that factory look of shaley323's, ed your's looks like mine but mines blue to match with everything else in my car haha, i do like the look of them AWR swaybar mounts though
that IS the factory look
I installed the JDM accessory kit from Mazda!

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Old 20-02-2013, 05:19 AM   #118
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that IS the factory look
I installed the JDM accessory kit from Mazda!

that's the same one I fitted just didn't use the bulb covers.
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Old 26-02-2013, 08:44 AM   #119
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mine is bettar

I wrote an English LHD how-to for it too
Looks good Ed,
First I have to get my hands on one of these kits (hoping JDM323 can help) but can you link to the 'how to'
Secondly, what sort of pedals do you have and where can I find some of those? Anyone know if these are legal in NSW?
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #120
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JDM folding mirrors installed and functioning after running the white and yellow wires between the door connectors that the AUSDM models missed out on, you need to run 2 wires between the door to loom plugs in front pillars, the doors already have the wires which are yellow with black trace and white with blue trace, i used the pins from an old front power lock motor to solder the wires to then insert into pillar plug (vehicle side) to match the wires coming from the doors, I also had to re-pin the mirror wires into the australian plugs (the red and grey wires are for the fold motor) red went to yellow with black trace and grey to white with blue trace but then i had to reverse mine for the passenger side. if you have purple wires then they are for the mirror defrosters which I did not connect. I also installed astina rear door pockets.

Last edited by JDM323; 05-03-2013 at 04:40 PM.
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