mech man alternators group buy eoi

[sikwitit]

gday everyone
since I have installed my large sound system the typical head light dimming has started and is pissing me of so after much looking around and multiple emails I have found a alternator that will fulfill my needs mech man alternators offer an adaptor plate to fit a larger unit which let's you run a alternator that puts out more power ranging from 170-220 amps.
so I have found out it will be 550 for a 180 amp alternator with the adaptor plate and 85 for a big 3 upgrade kit +shipping to Australia.
after talking with the company they are willing to take $5 off if I can get 5 people in a group buy and the more people I can get the more they will discount even more.
so if you interested post in this thread so we can get this going

[Clean_Cookie]

Yes I'm interested but would this adapter plate be universal or suit fs engines only? I want an externally adjustable regulator, I know some they sold did this.

[marcs_sp20]

Not to try and burst your bubble, but im pretty sure the alternator is integrated into the stock ECU with FSDE's...

Something to look into...

[rodhog]

memis correct it is on the BA.

Plus HOw much power does one want to suck from an engine?

IN older models BG I know you would be better off with a bisc Bosch 85 amp upgrade 1200rpm to 7500rpm over 60amp output. Unlike stock Mitsubishi unit. 150amp PLUS? that's an area where IMO one must ask what is this a entertainment studio or a car.
All the unit's I've fitted to similar models have dealt with 90% of stereo's with only minor dim of lights at idle in rain with A/C on instant fix at 1000rpm.

even a new v8 Holdens are on about 140AMP on HSV and it's peck. Some big mercs have them high but you are paying for lap of luxury.

A Bit extreme but interest to say the least.

[Mad Mat]

Originally Posted by marcs_sp20

Not to try and burst your bubble, but im pretty sure the alternator is integrated into the stock ECU with FSDE's...

Something to look into...

ryans one has an in-build voltage regulator where the ba series3, bj, and so on let the ecu control the voltage

[sikwitit]

so have been talking with mechman and so far they only have the adaptor plate for the protege5 no other model of 323 or 626 if you want one made up it will have to be custom.
they have told me its a plug and plug unit so the stock plug fits no problem along with the big 3 upgrade to get the most of this unit there is no adverse effects when using this alternator.
with the 180 amp alternator it is designed so its producing it 180 at 900rpm it uses a smaller size pulley so it doesn't put any more stress then the factory system
so I cant see why its a bad upgrade

[Orion]

Originally Posted by sikwitit

with the 180 amp alternator it is designed so its producing it 180 at 900rpm it uses a smaller size pulley so it doesn't put any more stress then the factory system

Don't agree with this statement at all.

They use a smaller pulley to get more revs on the alternator at the same rpm when compared to stock unit.

If you think about gears on a bicycle - the easiest setting is to have the small gear on the peddles and the large gear on the wheel and obviously the hardest setting is the opposite.

Think about an engine in the same way - with the crank pulley being the equivalent of the wheels and the alternator being the equivalent of the wheel.

If you reduce the diameter of the alternator (wheel) it will actually put more stress on the engine

[rodhog]

exactly. it's over driven - the Reverse of what most people do when you build a race car run higher revs.

If you have loaded the car up with such a sound system it's got more power then well. I'll keep my opinion to I am old. Then it's going to need it. Most people compromise.

I like my music but I like it sitting in my recliner drinking dimple and listening to Frank.

Look not answering for everyone but I don't think you will find this mod will suit All.

Where car makers needed to get more output from an alternator - they use to change the crankshaft pulley to a larger unit. Ford did it on some model Mazdas.
Mazda followed but not on all models.

I just honestly question this 180amp unit, I know it will fit in the space allowed but using the same plug ? Really ? NO upgrades to the main battery feeds and earth.

[Clean_Cookie]

From the extremely limited knowledge of alternators, it will only produce these huge amps if something is wanting it. However it'll probably have more losses due to using larger copper conductors = more flux = more resistance to pass through the field being created, potentially being a larger draw on the motor.

[project.r.racing]

a second battery or capacitor sounds like a better idea.

the biggest i've seen for BA S3s NBs and BJs is the 130A replacement ones. Same size pulley as stock. But will still strain engine more than stock version.

you could always get creative and pull the a/c out and replace the p/s pump with a electric one to save engine strain. but you're doing stuff that can be done elsewhere with minimal effort.

if you had a bg/ba, you'd be able to get a pulley delete on the crank to save weight as it only is half size with the outer smaller pulley missing. but that is for more balanced race engines that you are happen to throw and/or fix in 100K.

[Clean_Cookie]

Problem with the cheap ones off eBay require a high rpm to make any power. Sitting in traffic for example would drain the battery more than a stock alt.

[project.r.racing]

Thats good to know.

[Clean_Cookie]

IIRC a stock 80a unit will produce 50 a at 1200 rpm. Upgraded ones will produce 50a 2000 but 130a at 3-4000. Fine for hwy driving.

[project.r.racing]

Well explained. Thanks for the info.

[sikwitit]

im just quoted what they have sent me in emails.
anyway did the big 3 upgrade on sunday for those that don't know what it is. basically replacing the wires going from the negative to ground, alternator to positive, engine ground to chassis you replace these wires with 0 gauge wire and helps your electrical system anyway after doing this the headlight diming has been reduced by 80% It still dims but hardly noticeable so wont be changing alternator yet will see how it goes when my other amp comes in.

[Clean_Cookie]

Good to hear. Even replacing with factory sized stuff works too, after 15+ years they start to deteriorate.

[rodhog]

Originally Posted by Clean_Cookie

From the extremely limited knowledge of alternators, it will only produce these huge amps if something is wanting it. However it'll probably have more losses due to using larger copper conductors = more flux = more resistance to pass through the field being created, potentially being a larger draw on the motor.

All of the above is correct.
That is one of the biggest issues. On models like some Type R's I don't think it applies to local models. but I know on version where they Refitted Hydraulic steering no electric the used base model Alternators for less engine drag.
It's one reason mazda has this engine braking recovery system. Make power charge battery smaller alternator drain. less engine load at idle - helps stop start systems etc.

Sounds like you found your weak spot
As pointed out old wires = loss of transfer. Japanese allow a bit over the top compared with others but again one must remember the cheaper the car to begin with the more cost cutting they try and find. Add in Age and most annoying is over time you have to keep an eye on it.