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Old 27-07-2011, 12:16 PM   #1
astina_hardtop97
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BA Hardtop Wheel alignment specs for track day

does anyone know what wheel alignment specs i can use for a 30mm lowered BA hardtop with stock suspension?
front and rear specs please...

do i need to get aftermarket camber and caster kits or is ther a bit of adjustment in the factory suspension?

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Old 27-07-2011, 02:35 PM   #2
Rupewrecht
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As much camber as you can get with the stock setup...which is pretty much nothing. Ideally you'll need some camber bolts front and rear.

This'll give you 1.5-2 that is what you want on the front, and about the same at the rear.

For more front caster you'll need new lower control arm bushes.
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Old 27-07-2011, 07:32 PM   #3
project.r.racing
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for a street usable stock setup:-
front toe -0.5mm
front camber -1.0d
rear toe -0.0mm
rear camber -0.5d

but you'll just have the ability to adjust the toe only.
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Old 27-07-2011, 08:27 PM   #4
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Most wheel alignment shops will only align to what the computer tells them, that way they can't be blamed for tyre wear issues. I've given first bornes and signed stat decs to have small camber changes made that are within Mazda specs.
I recomend starting with -1.2 deg front camber (-0.2deg from factory) as a first setting. It will give the front a bit more bite into corners without suprize understeer.
Most of these settings will need to be tuned to your driving style over time.
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Old 28-07-2011, 08:10 AM   #5
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i'm paying the money, they do what i want. i've never had any issues about what alignment settings i have requested.
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Old 15-08-2011, 04:38 PM   #6
astina_hardtop97
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thanks for the replies, now as for tyres
i'm getting toyo ra1's in 205/40r17 as these where cheap and the right size for the front, as for rears i have 225/45r17 in a very hard cheap chinese tyre (40,000km and still looks new)
should i leave these for the wakefeild day or should i put some old r compound semi-slicks in 245/40r17 i have off my old ford? they should fit under the rear guards but should i bother?
my car is dead stock so not real fast
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Old 15-08-2011, 07:25 PM   #7
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Don't know how much a hardtop setup for the track would differ to a hatch, but i run the following which i have found is the best setup for me as far as handling, driving style and tyre wear is concerned:

Front
-2.5 camber
+0.5mm toe

Rear
-0.5 camber
0.0mm toe

245's for my thinking is gonna be tough to fit under the guards unless there is way more room under a hardtop. I just put 225's under the hatch and i only have a fingers width between the guard and the strut.

From experience without stiffer suspension and some decent camber on the front your tyres will end up with some heavily worn outer shoulders especially around a tight circuit like wakefield. The understeer is gonna chew them up. My advice would be just chew up some cheapies.

I have a set of camber bolts i can sell you and if you have any troubles with getting the adjustments done, the guy who sets up my car can do it.
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Old 16-08-2011, 08:48 AM   #8
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car is pretty stiff on 30mm lowered selby springs and new ebay shocks, 5 x 6 lap runs so tyre wear should be ok, i haven't checked clearance to my strut on the rear with my 225's but it will be the same as a hatch so prob won't fit 245's in there.
how much for your camber bolts?
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Old 16-08-2011, 09:26 AM   #9
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Old 16-08-2011, 10:44 AM   #10
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On our previous hardtop we had basic Whiteline stuff installed, stiffer rear sway bar and camber bolts all round. They then did a mild sport wheel alignment. The difference was amazing. One of the adjustments they did was a bit of rear toe out. The effect of that was when loading the outer wheels in a corner it brought the rear around better. The car had 'Granny spec' understeer from new but the new wheel alignment set it up totally neutral and heaps of fun.

The camber bolts back then were $12 each as I remember.

We had very slight inner tyre wear on the front, which they warned us about. It was worth that for the handling difference, even though the tyre places didn't like it.

We now have another hardtop and are looking to do the same thing to it.
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Old 16-08-2011, 11:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Shifty View Post
The camber bolts back then were $12 each as I remember.
For $12 doubt they were genuine whitelines unless you got a super deal. Whitlines are $80 and I paid only a little under that for mine.
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Old 24-08-2011, 08:03 PM   #12
Doctor Shifty
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Very likely my memory is not too trustworthy on the $12, I noticed their new price when i went looking. Numbers and me, we are not the best of friends.

However, this work was done about 1999/2000 so in those years prices would have seen some increase.
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