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Old 11-12-2013, 09:12 PM   #41
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according to my paper work, lynx, 94-95 323/laser were the same.

ps - 26x30 to 28x20
ds - 26x30 to 26Fx30
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:02 PM   #42
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Spline count? My lynx shafts are 28/26 inner/outer which fit the gearbox and hubs and when the ps shaft is bolted up to box and hub it seems to be sweet.
Im assembling the ds now to see if it all fits up, intermediate shaft and all.
Difference between lynx g5mo1 "I" shaft and ba f box "I" shaft.

Last edited by ghetto3; 11-12-2013 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 13-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #43
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Got my injectors mounted and all buttoned up ready to go.
Also painted/installed a few bits including the rear gearbox cover.
I used cutoff bits of Horton carbon crossbow arrows (xx75 lightning strike 2) as spacers for the fuel rail.

With the driveshafts, i fitted the drivers side and layshaft, gearbox and passenger shaft and it all seems to be bang on. Does

the BA share the same front wheel track as a lynx?





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Old 16-12-2013, 05:47 PM   #44
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Busy cleaning threads, cleaning gasket sufaces etc ready to bolt down head. One thought has been troubling me. When i tore the head down i cleaned and sorted all components and handed it all over to the headbuilder. I noticed this head did not have any spring seats during teardown, same as two previous heads. I'm wondering were spring seats (as opposed to shims that alter spring values) used on all bp heads, hla/solid heads only etc. I just cant remember handing any over even though everything that came out of the head was catalogued and sent together.
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Old 17-12-2013, 02:27 PM   #45
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Happy birthday to me, happy birthday to me...

Picked this up today.
Toda cams-check
SUBs-check
Big shave-check
Etc-check check check.
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Old 17-12-2013, 07:30 PM   #46
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Just measured my cold lash settings to verify they were set as per requested.
All measured a snug 0.009" intake and 0.012" exhuast.
May get it torqued on tonight.

Edit: haha! I noticed i left out a zero there and i frantically rushed out to make sure i hadn't left that zero out when talking to builder.
Big difference between 0.09" and 0.009"!!!

Last edited by ghetto3; 18-12-2013 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 17-12-2013, 10:38 PM   #47
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Awesome!
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Old 18-12-2013, 12:08 AM   #48
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Topside shot. The AN fitting for air seperator is visible on the lower rear section of head. You can almost see the SUBs hiding in there, and the different shape of cam lobe is evident.


Cheers to one Ryan for supplying the cams/lifters, and another ryan for the block, and your comment
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Old 18-12-2013, 01:07 PM   #49
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Ah, nice work there! Mmmmmmmmmmm
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Old 18-12-2013, 02:08 PM   #50
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How come the tolarances are so tight between the lobes and lifters?
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Old 18-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #51
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Recommended was 0.008" but builder said 0.009" was better. The lobes go close to the casting so a quick teardown and dremelling might be in order.
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Old 18-12-2013, 03:10 PM   #52
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Tighter the cam lash the more power you make to a point, but your idle quality suffers.

Effectively loosening and tightening lash changes the duration at valve.
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Old 21-12-2013, 02:59 PM   #53
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While setting up to portmatch the manifolds i decided to get the dremel up in there to remove all the dags and rough casting marks.
Steering clear of altering the shape of the ports, concentrating on smoothing the surface. With the inlets i'm leaving a rougher texture and the exhuast ports (shown) im smoothing to a finer finish to limit carbon buildup. Under the watchful eye of experienced head builders i thought i'd have a crack.

What i started with.


This is a nearly finished exhuast port.
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Old 24-12-2013, 04:49 PM   #54
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Okay so i went a little too far with the dremel...
But not in a place that hurts too much.

I had to remove a bit of alloy to seat the plugs down properly and this happened..



Back to the fabricators for a dab of weld.
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Old 24-12-2013, 10:55 PM   #55
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Can you weld from the inside at all and grind it of smooth?
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Old 25-12-2013, 12:05 AM   #56
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It sits just on the edge of one of those pcv chambers underside of cover so yep it can be patched from the inside and ground down to flush from top.

I've been using carbon steel wire brushes and mini sanding drums in my dremel to clean up the ports, followed with various grades of wet-n-dry. However with the cam cover i was using cutting burrs which remove material pretty quickly...especially soft alloy.
I half regret pulling the head back down instead of bolting it onto the freshly cleaned block deck, but then i wouldnt have found that large chunk of wire brush bristles (?) under a spring retainer and the single p1 (hydrolic) retainer/collets used on a single valve. Not complaining though, the extra stuff ol'mate did to the head makes up for it.
I'm pretty sure using non matching retainers is not the best.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:32 PM   #57
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Survived the portwork and just about to give the valves and seats a final lapping and it can all go together...

If i can sort the collet conundrum. I can buy a set of supertech retainers (may as well get springs too) however i'd still be down a pair of 97+ collets.

I've collected most of the important stuff (read expensive) and it's the little bits that are choking things to a stop.

Gotta pull my finger out and get it done!
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:06 AM   #58
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Looking down the throttle body, the only obstruction to flow is the lip where the trumpets mount to the throttle body. Theres a good 1/2mm of lip there that i'm just a little reluctant to smooth out. The brass vacuum port just visible down in there got the dremel touch.

Not much to the intake eh? Some night shots from this angle would be interesting as the valves do their thing.

Last edited by ghetto3; 07-01-2014 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:35 AM   #59
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I want my head back!
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:45 AM   #60
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It will be a good day when we can line these project BAs' up together and take them on a cruise.
Don't get too distracted with that emeggsfive!

Nah i'd want to see that too..
Stripped, slammed, hard topped (or g stringed for the sun), hard dog rollbarred, ooohh gads dont get me started!!!
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