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Old 05-12-2006, 01:02 PM   #1
project.r.racing
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How Do I Start Racing In My Car?

After fielding heaps of question about cars, engines, redlining, short-shifting, racing techniques etc etc from the weekend, I’ve decided to make this thread to help newbies to motorsports and cars.

Where to start?
1. Learn your gearbox ratios – most underrated thing in the car is the gearbox ratios. The car’s power and rpm is controlled by you using the gearbox. Your car makes power depending on what revs the engine is doing. The un-educated will tell you that you just run the rev all the way up to the redline. They believe only in power and corner speed. They are very wrong. They are only getting 2/3rds out of their car.

Every car has an rpm line where the power is almost doubled. This is what I refer to as a sweet spot. To get good power, you need to always keep the engine above this rpm line. On my BA Astina it is 3200 rpm. I think it’s a bit lower for G series boxes. I prefer the F series cos they have longer and cleaner ratios compared to the G series box. But the G series is much stronger. I can get good power and acceleration short-shifting at 5000 rpm and change up gears, with revs dropping to 3500 rpm even though my reline is 7000rpm.

Play around with your own gearbox, test it out. See where it powers up nicely. See where you can change to keep it above that sweet spot.

2. Find yourself a workshop - best advice i can suggest is to find yourself a smaller performance workshop. Normally being cheaper and work being carried out quicker due to it being a mass produce work line. Ask around to find out who is good and who is bad. Or ask at the track, (see later section.)

3. Build a fuel efficient car – another funny idea is you have to use heaps of fuel to get big power, wrong also. Extractors, mandrel bend exhausts, flow filters should all give you extra power for very little extra fuel usage. If any car is using a lot more extra fuel after these mods, then there is a design flaw in the current system somewhere. Or you are just driving is harder than usual due to the extra power gains. Bigger throttles and aftermarket ecus will gain even more power, but will now use more fuel.

Build a car this way is very easy and allows you to use extra fuel when needed. You also have the bonus of not spending heaps on fuel every time you want to go to the track or just having a little fun in the mountains. Less money on fuel means more money for mods later.

What to mod?
1. Suspension – Car turns quicker, brake easier, accelerates faster, save fuel etc.

But I’m not a fan of just simply lowered springs in a car. Yeah the car sits lower and handles a little better, but it’s better money spent elsewhere. Most brands of lowered springs are too soft for racing, at between 1.5-2.5kg/cm. That’s only about 40% stiffer than the original 0.8-1.4kg/cm.

Off the shelf lowered springs come with variable rate rear springs. Personally they are no good for acceleration cos it allows the rear end to bog down under heavy power causing body movement, (slower acceleration and slower turning.)

If anyone has a little extra money when buying suspensions, then I’d suggest coilovers. They come in many different shapes and sizes. Andy (twilightprotege) has a set with 4kg/cm and 3kg/cm springs, front and rear respectfully. Great for Australian roads, as ours are very bumpy. Mine are 7.5kg/cm and 5.2kg/cm springs, front and rear respectfully. Most of the time, mine are fine but some bumpy roads cause airwalks and looses speed. But 95% they are better than softer lowered springs.

2. Weight reduction – in most Astinas, dropping a mere 35kg will mean an increase of 2.5% in the power to weight ratio. Meaning you’ll accelerate quicker, stop quicker, turn easier, wear the tyres less, save fuel etc. Pull out some boot panels, spare wheel, empty the water bottles and remove the tools.

3. Wheels and tyres – simply, go as wide as you can. Don’t do too big diameter starting out.

4. Spare parts – Collect everything you can find. 2nd hand parts are great for older cars like our Astinas. Keeping a little pile of parts can save you time and money. You’ll never know when you need that part. eg:- buying a $300 broken BP motor is great. Normally it's only one part that is broken in it that stops it runningn but it has 1000s more parts that are still in great working order.

Time to race?
1. Join a club - clubs are a great way to meet new people and learn about motorsports. Most cost around $20 to $40 per annum. You'll be included in track days and events. Recieve newletters and get discounts at mechanics and parts shops.

2. Do a defensive driving course asap - learn better techniques to use in your car. You'll learn stuff that you never thought about. And it could save yours or your familie's lives.

3. Practice comes 1st – Industrial estates, wide roundabouts, skidpans and the track are all good testing grounds. Empty shopping centre car parks are great for testing low speed braking and handbrake techniques. Borrow a few orange witches hats from a construction site and set yourself up a test course.

4. Don’t race on the streets – Too many people die on the streets every year. Don’t become one of those people. Where possible, hit the track. It’s cheaper than losing 8 points on your license, $700 and a six month suspension from driving, (which I did earlier in the year.) Hitting the track will cost you between $40 and $75 a day and you can go faster than 110kph and there is no chance of loosing points or your license. Thats about 6 to 8 times at the track per annum for $700. And the added bonus of this is meeting people that can answer all you questions about racing, techniques, modifications etc.

Any ideas – please add.

Ryan

Disclaimer - if you bust anything, it ain't my fault.
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Old 05-12-2006, 07:59 PM   #2
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Only thing I'm forced to add is that your gearbox makes no difference to what rpm the torque is produced by the engine. The only difference it makes is what speed your car will be doing. The big thing your gearbox ratios can change is what rpm you hold your gears to, especially when circuit racing.
Reving all the way to the redline is also more than ok depending on how well your engine is producing torque at the high end. This is where your gearbox ratios matter.
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Old 05-12-2006, 08:43 PM   #3
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Doesn't Time to Race tips 2 and 3 contradict each other?

Join a club and give it a go before spending big $$$ on mods that you may or may not need. Talk to other racers about race lines before you talk to them about tuning your engine or suspension. Pay extra attention to your brakes and bleed them after every meet, before and after is better.
Club level motorsport is about you being a better driver/racer, not about belting door handles.
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Old 05-12-2006, 08:50 PM   #4
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nice work ry,sure alot of members will use this info.
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Old 05-12-2006, 09:44 PM   #5
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it's definately a good start to a how-to. good bit of time spent there.

few different things depending on the type of racing chosen - drag, circuit and rally.

with tyres it's not always best to go widest possible, especially if you're going for semi or full slicks. if you go too wide the tyre will never heat up to it's optimum temperature and you'll be going slower than a guy with narrower tyres that are up to optimum temperature (this is manly circuit orientated). tyres are also the cheapest form of altering your gearbox ratio. at the end of a straight and you have to change into 4th or 5th for a very short time, get slightly taller tyres so you stay in 3rd or 4th etc. same goes for drag racing. change into 4th or 5th right on the finish line? get smaller tyres so you're well into that gear or get slightly bigger tyres so you dont have to change gears.

best thing about motorsport is testing. testing what works best for you and your car. what works well on my car might suck for the car next to me. what works well for me as a driver might suck for the guy next to me.

and the most important thing to take away from any form of racing. you and your car is only as strong as it's weakest point. be that tyres, sway bars, weight, power, ride height or even you.
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Old 06-12-2006, 10:23 AM   #6
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get these, it'll help you out with handling/cornering/acceleration/braking.

ryan
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Old 06-12-2006, 06:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejayryry
get these, it'll help you out with handling/cornering/acceleration/braking.

ryan
There are many mods that will improve handling, engine, drive train and lower lap times but they don't make you a better driver. If you can lower your lap times without them then you can spend more time on the track learning racecraft than working overtime to earn extra $$$ to pay for mods.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:03 PM   #8
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in the last 18 months or so I have started to get involved with club level events.

I have competed in 3 motorkhana's and 2 hillclimbs.

I am part of a cams affiliated car club and have a cams level 2NS licence.

I have learnt alot at these events and have used a different car every time I have raced. making it hard work to improve. Last hillclimb I spun out at 100km/h in a corner and thankfully hit nothing, rather do that on the track then on the street.

my teaching is from a guy I used to work with that has been racing for many years. He has taught me alot with handbrake, racing lines, gear selection etc.

defiantly fun and not that expensive when you consider the fines if caught on the street.

Rob
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo Dude
There are many mods that will improve handling, engine, drive train and lower lap times but they don't make you a better driver. If you can lower your lap times without them then you can spend more time on the track learning racecraft than working overtime to earn extra $$$ to pay for mods.
true to that.

i like hearing that rod is learning and practising - lucky about crash.

i am in the process of re-doing my cams PC licensing so i can start racing again. last i checked it's $341. so i better start saving now. wish i only needed the 2NS license cos they are way cheaper.

ryan
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:59 PM   #10
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I'm getting back into the racing groove after a few years. My first Motorkhana (in the 2) I was doing realy well until the final trials when I WD'd in the seventh and smacked a flag in the eighth (redline in reverse, the flag went down and stayed down for the count).

31st from 70 entries, I need practice.
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:26 PM   #11
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my last motorkhana i was 2nd in the FWD class and 4th overall out of 56. we have alot of tarmac motorkhanas up here also. my fav is in a driving training centre skidpan.




my 1st motorkhana back after a 4 year lay off, i got 3 WDs from 10 stages. but slowly getting better and faster and learning about my car's new suspension.

ryan
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:45 PM   #12
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Most Vic Motorkhanas are on grass (my fav surface), gravel and one paved surface that we have recently lost access to.


I was probably a little too precious with the 2 as it'd only just clocked 9,000 km. Looking back I should've taken the 929 out for it's final moment of glory. The results have been writen into history and no amount of hind site will change them.
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