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Old 20-07-2004, 10:26 PM   #21
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yep checking now
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Old 26-07-2004, 11:45 AM   #22
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I made the conversion on the weekend as well. Hmmm, I don't think that it is a placebo effect, but damned if it doesn't reduce the tendency to understeer. I guess that the theory has something to do with it. Add a little bit of dynamic negative camber on the loaded front wheel e voila!
I had issues on one side with the stud location relative to the holes on the strut brace mounts, but that only slowed me down 5 minutes or so.
It will be interesting to see if there are any long term adverse effects...
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Old 26-07-2004, 12:16 PM   #23
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Bah BG (well SP model) has 4 studs, but they are rectangular

**

**

so its either on forwards or backwards. So if the diagram thingy is any clue I'll be adding positive camber as well as castor, right? Do I want to do this??

Well I was going to change stuts in front in next few weeks, so what harm could it do to try out? :shock:

Would I be better waiting till I have shockies that actually do anything before trying this out? Cause the Astina, she handles like a boat at the moment. :roll:
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Old 26-07-2004, 04:37 PM   #24
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yeah i'm not sure about the BG, it may or may not have room for this adjustment
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Old 26-07-2004, 08:35 PM   #25
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i had my car 4 wheel aligned on saturday everything is up too specs cost $64
considering ive had everything out to fit the new struts an air bags i was suprized all the readings were so close
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Old 27-07-2004, 06:17 AM   #26
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yeah that is suprising! i think just with changing the caster around that the steering is slightly out...
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Old 13-08-2004, 02:46 AM   #27
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what actually will be benefit from adjusting the caster?

I tried loosen the 4 nuts but it is just impossible to push the shocks down and turn it

is there any tricks? i just don't wanna put the whole thing apart if possible.

thank you
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Old 13-08-2004, 06:33 AM   #28
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did you jack up the front corner you were trying to adjust?
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Old 13-08-2004, 10:07 AM   #29
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I found it easier when I jacked the front end completely - I didn't have to fight the sway bar as much.

Oh don't try to turn the coil... ops: just the mounting plate.
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Old 13-08-2004, 06:03 PM   #30
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i did jack up the front corner, tried and failed, then jack up the whole front tried again failed again, finally i just take the whole shocks down and turn it.

i did feel the difference after this mod, the steer seems to be heavier and the front seems to have more grip than before.

I had read through some articles, but i still don't understand what it is and how would it make such a difference. can anyone pls kindly explain in detail.

thankx in advance
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Old 13-08-2004, 07:40 PM   #31
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http://www.astinagt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2508
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Old 13-08-2004, 07:58 PM   #32
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good article, but doesnt explain what caster does.

basically increasing the positive caster does nothing while the wheel is straight, it's when the wheel turns that it starts to be of benefit.

let's say you're turning right. obviously the wheel turns right, but also, the wheel turns in giving negative camber. more negative camber (esp at high speed cornering), the more rubber is on the road.

best of all with positive caster instead of just negative camber, the outside wheel gets negative camber, the inside wheel gets positive camber...both of which give the maximum rubber on the road.

does that sort of help? in simple terms, you are getting dynamic cornering camber. you turn left both wheels tilt over to the left, turn right, both wheels tilt over to the right.
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Old 13-08-2004, 08:12 PM   #33
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thankx rupewrecht and twilight
rupewrecht: I had read that article before but just don't un, thankx anyway
twilight: thank you i start to understand but still no quite clear.

so pos caster will cause the wheel to be one pos. and one neg. camber when turning
0 caster will not change the camber when turning
am i on the track?
what does neg caster do?
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Old 13-08-2004, 08:21 PM   #34
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So what setting have all you guys been using? "c" looks like the best one. Hopefully I'd guess this may help my tire wear to be more even??
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Old 13-08-2004, 08:24 PM   #35
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ok, assume the | / and \ are the wheels with the top of the line being the top of the wheel.

0 everything when straight = | |

negative camber when wheels straight = / \

postitive caster and 0 camber when straight = | |

0 camber and positive caster when turning right / / - so you can see the car turns into the corner so to say

0 camber and positive caster when turning left \ \

positive camber and positive caster when turning right = / |

above turning left = | \

so as you can see (hopefully) driving straight with negative camber will wear the inside of your tyres.

never go negative caster. makes the car very squirmish

anyway, does that make sense?
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Old 13-08-2004, 08:27 PM   #36
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and yep chipa - play with the C-spot :twisted:
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Old 13-08-2004, 09:15 PM   #37
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ic thank you
but just wanna ask one more, from the explanation above when turning left,
pos camver and pos caster | \ vs
0 camber and pos caster \ \

wouldn't that the first one (pos camber and pos caster) should provide tyres more road contact ?? the second one put force more onto the sidewall
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Old 13-08-2004, 09:18 PM   #38
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or do you mean NEGATIVE camber and pos caster?
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Old 14-08-2004, 07:22 AM   #39
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doh - yeah negative camber and positive caster.

the reason the \ \ is better is because your car doesnt stay flat around corners, it rolls.

so in effect when you include car roll, the tyres compaired to the ground are actually | |
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Old 15-08-2004, 11:31 AM   #40
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That and peak lateral grip occurs at some small negative dynamic camber. Grab an eraser and hold it perpendicular to a table. Push it to make it slide. Now tilt the top away from the direction of motion and repeat. You should feel it more difficult to slide. The same theory holds true for your tyres and the road.

The only real downsides to positive camber is increased steering effort and a higher proportion of mechanical trail to pneumatic trail (which means it becomes more difficult to FEEL the limit of traction at the front). Power steering takes care of the first one...

Don't forget that strut style suspensions typically reduce negative camber at the outside wheel in roll (as twilight mentions in the last post). Positive caster increases negative camber at the outside wheel.

I was going to say something else, but I can't remember what it was ops:
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