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Old 23-12-2007, 08:03 PM   #101
Putonyourshoes
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sorry for hijacking your thread mate.. but ive done intake and exhaust minus headers.. would i benifit from advancing my timing? i always use 98 octane fuel
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Old 24-12-2007, 01:38 AM   #102
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yeah you'd benefit from it, as it would take advantage of the increased fuel and air, you really won't get much from the exhaust till you do the headers though to cat. i was looking at mine a couple of days ago and the smallest bend is right near the engine, which is probably why i didn't notice much from my cat-back exhaust.

anyway a 2 degree advancement would be noticeable compared to a stocko running normal timing and fuel.
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Old 24-12-2007, 08:24 AM   #103
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cheers. how would i go about doing that?
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Old 24-12-2007, 10:23 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by 323Racer View Post
well they were standard 14's now their 17's....
He He, I have wondered about this alot. Would bigger, heavier wheels and or a larger rolling diameter tyre hinder my already unspectacular acceleration. Until I can afford lightwheight wheels($2,500 for a set of TE37s!), I think I'll stick with the 14s. On the other hand, the 195/60 R14 tyres tend to roll over and badly wear the outside edge, even with lots of camber, costing more money for replacement tyres... sigh, the joys of modifying cars.
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Old 24-12-2007, 10:28 AM   #105
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You can get good light 15"x7" BuddyClub rims for $268ea. Put on some good 205/50R15 rubber and you'll have a rolling diameter 10mm smaller than original factory rolling diameter.
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Old 24-12-2007, 10:49 AM   #106
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My wheels are 1.67% (10.3mm) oversized rolling diameter and while it accelerates slightly slower it's not a problem at all.


as long as you are legal you should notice too much difference (in vic you can go +15mm rolling diameter, +25mm width)


as for weight, I dont know, mine are lighter than stock, but also bigger, so it probably cancels out?
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Old 24-12-2007, 04:19 PM   #107
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for 323 racer:-
2" exhaust and 2.25" canon will kill some lower and mid range torque.
also bigger diameter and wider wheels are heavier and more grippy, offering more resistance to forward movement.

things to overcome this are...
replace the standard headers with a high flow set, and the cat with a high flow jobley.
get rid of the canon for something with less flow, (will decrease 5000rpm+ power but gain 3000-5000rpm torque.)
and get a high flow pod filter installed asap.
advance the timing 2 degrees.

by headers do you mean extractors? and what does jobley mean...sorri not use to car jargon yet..i put in the cannon because i thought it had more air flow....i didnt know that it would decrease torque though...but i think the problem is mainly in the wheels...mayb it wasnt installed properly becasue when i slam on the accelerator is doesnt seem to connect with the wheels or move the wheels at the same time...it feels as if the car has the drag the wheels along rather than help the car to move...

on an NA car should i be doing a full exhaust system...will it be too loud...i know performance wise is better for the car but i duno if i can stand that much droning from the front middles and back...im only juss barely getting use to the cannon....n i've already installed a K&N pod filter n set up my own CAI system...the CAI has definitely gained power for me but i havnt felt anything from the mags and cannon.....
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Old 24-12-2007, 04:51 PM   #108
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headers = extractors
jobley = slang = job = application

sounds like you have a lack of responsiveness to your engine. that's not a wheel issue. it's a airflow vs. fuel delivery issue.

does this happen at lower rev ranges or all the way up to 6500rpm?

any car aiming for power/response should have a full exhaust system done. turbo or n/a application... why put a 2"/2.25"/2.5" cat back system on, when the pipeing around the cat and the headers outlet is only 1.25"??? a system is only as big as it's smallest piping...

a full exhaust with a proper muffler fitted will be quieter than a canon fitted exhaust.

ryan
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Old 24-12-2007, 05:25 PM   #109
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coz rite now i've only done the cannonso most of the noise is behind me...so dats y its nt too bad...wat size do you suggets i do for a full exhaust system?

is there any other way to achive power/response...im juss thinking when i resell it the person might be put off by the loudness of it...

if theres anyone out there whoes done a full exhaust system for the same model as my car mazda astina 323 BA 97' could u plz let me know how its doing performance wise and noise level...thanx

and the low power/response issue happens up to 3000rpm....after that its fine
but the thing is thats it struggles to go up from 1500 to 3000rpm n it consumes quite abit of fuel aswell wen i push it...but the other nite i tried timing mycar from 0-100..got 10secs pushing from 4000 to 6000 rpm..and fuel consumption was extremely low...wats going on....isnt it the higher the revs the more fuel consumption...?
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Old 24-12-2007, 05:31 PM   #110
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MY CANNON




CANNON INSTALLED

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Old 24-12-2007, 05:58 PM   #111
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CAI HOSE





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Old 24-12-2007, 06:34 PM   #112
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I have a 97 Astina hatch, same as yours.

2.25" full mandrel bends, 2.5" supercat cat, 2.25" supercat muffler, 4-2-1 1.5/8" mandrel bent extractors - ok noise up to 3300rpm, then loud once ecu adds extra fuel.

Things you may need to try for extra responsiveness are:-
Lucas Oil Fuel Cleaner 150ml, (comes in $15 bottle)
New spark plugs
New fuel filter
Adjust throttle cable tension tighter, (2 bolts near the throttle itself)
Cleaner air filter

Ryan
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Old 25-12-2007, 07:53 PM   #113
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hey guys...my gear shifting feels abit stiff...esp from 1st - 2nd...what is a short shifter exactly....n if i get that will it replace my stock gear stick therefore eliminating the 1-2nd gear stifness??

Last edited by 323Racer; 25-12-2007 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 27-12-2007, 05:15 PM   #114
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ok i've taken off my mags...n put back on my stock rims...very minimal difference...so its nothing to do with the weight of the mags..the mechanic said it might be the K&N pod filter i put in...too much airflow...n dat i should take off the heat shield n let hot air in coz its lighter therefore combusts faster.
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Old 27-12-2007, 05:23 PM   #115
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wrongg....
it is lighter.. but there is less oxygen to combust. so i dont think it has anything to do with that.
with the short shifter.. it basically increases the gearboxes leverage against moving. so if anything it will make the stick worse.. but once you get it moving it moves faster than the stockie.. so.. i recomend you get one. i have one. it was worth it. try a gearbox oil change..
all cars a sticky between 1st and 2st and reverse usually.. but only to an extent..
hope that helps mate
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Old 27-12-2007, 05:34 PM   #116
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yeah i thought so...he keeps on saying its my filter...mayb i'll take it off n put the stock back on n see how its goes...but i doubt it....but man im craving for some G-force...n i juss cant seem to get it...im gonna ask around for a quote on a full exhaust system
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Old 27-12-2007, 06:30 PM   #117
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give it a shot hay but i dont know if it will be worth your time.. if you want some g force go for a short shifter and use 98 octane fuel
but there isnt alot you can do cheap for these cars unfortunately
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Old 27-12-2007, 07:00 PM   #118
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hey actualli i am noticing some diff in the change of rims...hmm...i'll give it another week but if im not wrong i do think acceleration has increased slightly and i feel my car is in sync with the acceleration of the engine now...mayb the weight has changed it...im feeling more forward momentum than i did with the mags....yeh dunno abt da filter yet...i doubt thats the problem...hey if theres more airflow will the AFM alow more air in or does it still let the same amount as when it was stock...n yeh definitely go the 98 octane..unleaded sucks balls...no power n juss guzzles away...
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Old 27-12-2007, 07:37 PM   #119
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the pod just allows the engine to suck more air in if its needed.. the afm tells the ecu how much fuel to put into the mixture..
some say yes and others no but more air cant hurt..
personally ive just gone for the high flow panel and CAI
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Old 27-12-2007, 07:40 PM   #120
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Maybe you are feeling the dead spot at really low revs. all the Astina series are renowned for there dead spot at around 1000rpm, turn the car on and kick the acc very quickly, you'll notice a slight drop before the engine revs up, its only very minimal but its enough to hinder performance in the responsiveness side of things, this is caused by the sh!tty AFM...only way to eliminate this problem is to get a RX7 AFM, wait for the dude on FL.com to finish the Hotwire setup or get a standalone ECU, Ive been told by the foreman at work that they tried to fix the problem by bending the spring in the AFM but it had little to no difference...
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