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Old 16-12-2008, 01:39 AM   #1
schwinn
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K&N Apollo on a BA v6

Hi guys. I've somehow landed myself an Apollo filter and am wondering what it would take to install it on my BA v6.

I popped the hood today, and with my lack of mechanical experience tried to fiddle about with the air box to see if it was an easy removal.

Ok after browsing the forums, I've come to understand a few things.

1. The resonator is underneath the air filter box (and is good for 4nm torque?). Is it possible and/or recommended to install the pod while keeping the resonator?

2. The Apollo has a 70mm base flange. I've read somewhere that the end of the MAF is also 70mm. Would it then be right to assume that all I need for installation would be a 70mm-70mm adaptor and some screw clamps?

3. There are 3 separate plugs connected around the air box. The main big one I assume is for the MAF, the other 2 smaller ones plug in onto something else on some metal plate bolted onto the side of the air box. What would I do with these?

I know that there are many here who have gone the panel filter + ducted CAI way, but could someone please help me with steps to get this install done? Or would it be a lot easier to pay someone to install it? I've seen a couple of threads where it would be recommended for me to take the front bar off...

Cheers guys, thanks in advance for the responses.
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Old 16-12-2008, 06:31 AM   #2
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1. wtf? never heard of that.
2. no need for a adaptor if same size.
3. pic would be good.

also, what is a k+n apollo? got pics?
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Old 16-12-2008, 06:52 AM   #3
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good filters. alot of the european guys are running these and heard nothing but good news.
post some pictures when you have it in
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Old 16-12-2008, 05:56 PM   #4
schwinn
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k&n apollo is a closed pod filter. I'd say it's the equivalent of the panel filter + cai duct, but as a packaged product from k&n instead. details here:
http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm

As putonurshoes said, a lot of the european guys at club323f.com have it installed.

I'll take a pic when I get home tonight of the stock setup that I'm having trouble dismantling.

Last edited by schwinn; 16-12-2008 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 16-12-2008, 06:14 PM   #5
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Remove the resonator and plumb the memorex hose through the gap to either the hole beside the driving light (Hardtop) or behind the driving light (Hatch).
You'll need an air filter support bracket to hold up the filter.
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Old 16-12-2008, 07:03 PM   #6
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A big thread on the UK site:

http://www.club323f.com/club323f/for...ghlight=apollo
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Old 16-12-2008, 07:37 PM   #7
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Ok I've got some pics, maybe I can describe my mechanical noobity a little bit more.

Here's a general view of my air box. As you can see, before entering the throttle body, there's a split to the left which I assume is the resonator (sorry for stating the obvious, please correct me if I'm wrong!).




Now I'm going to ask for help from scratch. Firstly, I've tried unscrewing the clamps, as well as unclipping the hinges (red circles). I've also unplugged the harnesses (red arrows).



Even after undoing all of these, the most I can do is wiggle the top of the air box, I can't seem to pull it off the piping? Are there other screws/bolts/things that need to be undone?

Secondly, judging from the way the resonator splits off the main pipe, would it seem that I would have to get some new pipes just for the pod?



Finally, here's the 2 smaller wire harnesses I was talking about. Can someone tell me what they do, and if itS OK if I move them elsewhere?



The engine bay is so packed already, I'm starting to worry if things will fit!

Last edited by schwinn; 16-12-2008 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 16-12-2008, 11:43 PM   #8
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the electrical plug immediately after the airbox is the airflow meter. you need to keep that.

no idea what that big pipe is that leads down. the piping to the resonator comes from the bottom of the airbox.

you'll probably need to actually pull the metal collar off the pipe after the airflow meter to get the pipe off
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Old 17-12-2008, 12:07 AM   #9
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okay fitting a pod to the BA is simple enough.

the problem is how the airflow meter is fitted ot the box and how it's intake resonator is effected.

First off don't remove that resonator it's there for a torque hump at about 2500rpm. effects top end sound but you will loose slight top end. More of oyur top end sound will be gained by removing the air box's intake resonator inside your lower front half below headlight.

you need to remove clamp for intake main hose and a few of them hoses
then big plastic lug that holds the resonator to air box
So you can then unbolt the air box from the air flow meter 2 -10mm bolt/screws hold it on to the air box.

but you may need ot remove whole airbox


It then pops out and has small rubber cone seal.
you shoudl be able to pop your air filter over this and tighten down just enough for a nice seal.

The problem now becomes feeding it cold air and mounting it so it does not rattle around


Rod's answer

Dont' do it. Piss off the air pod- it's only noise and less power

the KF's have very decent ECU in them with knock sensors and constant referance to air intake temps and flow.
Meaning soon as it see bad numbers - so do you.

Get A Panel K&N - now get the bottom of your air box and remove it's factory intake to the box and it's noise resonator. And now run some pipe from it to front of car for some mild ram air cold air intake.

Best effect and it works.

Want to know what the difference between Pod and Panel is
Go get 2nd hand broken airflow meter with temp sensor failed - Not uncommon.
drive with that around = Pod effect.

I drove around on this thinking my 02 sensor are why it was using fuel. Untill I read my Codes.
Untill then I thought the KF what peice of CRAP V6 my ass.
Funny I still feel that way but it was alot better with good CAI and airflow meter fully working.
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Old 17-12-2008, 01:02 AM   #10
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Thanks for the detailed response rod. And also for the advice not to go the pod...

But yeah, I'll just give this a go, if I find that response is poorer, I'll revert back and offload the filter elsewhere... But I'm thinking (or hoping rather) that the response will improve. FYI, the pod is an enclosed filter, with a cold air feed.

Here's a picture of it off the official site:



As the hatch fog lights on the BA are in the way, I may have to forego the ram intake effect, by either facing the feed to the groud, or behind the foglamps. I haven't really figured out where to position the feed, but I'll definitely get a better idea when I remove my box.

This will probably be postponed for some time, I doubt I'll have much free time until Jan next year - Parents are in town this weekend, and will be heading off to KL for 2 weeks from Christmas onwards. Eitherway, I'll give the removal another go when I'm back, and will update this thread with enough pics for progress and final product. May be worth stickying at the end :P

Last edited by schwinn; 17-12-2008 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 17-12-2008, 08:13 AM   #11
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pod filters are better on charged air sistems, NA sistems relly on a a steady flow supply of air, which is why there are resonator boxes in the system. removing one wont make much difference, just allow you to create your own air feed for the air box if there were no resinator boxes air would come in at various pressures and volumes, as it is easiliy affected by temperature changes which are reggular occurance as you drive over a un-uniform surface souch as regular bitumen that has been patched, if you dont beleive me try sticking your hand out the window when your driving and you will feel that the air hitting your hand comes in sort of waves of different thickness intake box helps eliminate that by forcing the air to slow down and mix properly and enter the plenum and subsequently the cylinders.
so like Rod said get a pannel filter
Tony
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Old 17-12-2008, 06:40 PM   #12
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Resonators are there for different reasons. The one under the guard as far as I've found is/was there to reduce intake noise. There is probably no reason you couldn't make a bigger inlet hole and duct that to fresh air. As it is it sucks air through a snorkel from the top of the guard near where the wiring pops through. The one on the side of the filter box I'd like to test on a dyno with it on and off and if it makes any difference with the VRIS (Variable Resonance Induction System) remenber the 'R' in VRIS stands for resonance and we are talking about resonators.
The only reference I can find about an additional 4 torques in the resonator was on Solomiata and it was talking about an NA Miata which has the same VAF as the BG and was talking about the square box on the engine side of the VAF (shown below).


The two valves on the side of the box are only there for convenience, they could easily be un-bolted and moved under the MAF (which unbolts from the air box with two 10mm bolts) and cable tied to something convenient.
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Old 21-01-2009, 12:42 AM   #13
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Hey all! Sorry thread revival.

So I got back from Malaysia about 2 weeks ago, and with my partner still away for 1.5 weeks found some time on my hands, and with daylight on my hands I started taking the air filter box off.

I've kept the stock piping which kind of results in the filter being half floppy (due to the 'ribbed' bits as u can see from pics in previous post, and also kept that weird bit of resonator that's in between the throttle body and the MAF.

I'll update with pics later, girlfriend has hijacked the camera in KL and has taken it with her to Adelaide.

I still have more to go, as I haven't fit the cold air pipe yet. The thing is, the resonator bits go from the underside of the air filter box leads to super tight area near the front left tire guard, and it's such a b*tch to remove! It's the oddest thing I've seen, because I can't see where exactly an intake hole is, and it has this white plastic chamber attached to it! (at first I thought that plastic bit was to hold some fluids, but nope, have double checked!)

Has anyone ever removed this leftover resonator piping? I was intending not to take any panels off, but now it looks like I'll definitely have to take the front bar off, and even the front quarter panel? Any tips?
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Old 21-01-2009, 01:23 AM   #14
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how much it cost if you don't mind sharing?

last time i saw the price on one of those system i wasn't particuarly too impressed. the MX-5 community have done something similar to it long ago taking the high pressure air in from the windsreen cowl area.

i put together my own, was quite pleased with it too

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Old 21-01-2009, 02:26 AM   #15
schwinn
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ehhehe to be honest, about the price, I'm sure many ppl might vomit blood if I mentioned it and I definitely paid way too much for a cai, considering the many on this forum who have gone the DIY way of hi flow panel filter + tubing.

I kind of shot myself in the foot by not researching the price of pods, jumping on an impulse buy. That said, I paid 200 bucks for it.
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Old 21-01-2009, 02:51 AM   #16
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hrm well, better then $450 though
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Old 21-01-2009, 08:26 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperMazdaKart View Post
Very nice! Love the toilet sewer rubber adaptor, but what is the orange part from ?

I've got plastic gutter downpipe to my pod, inside the sidewall between the wheel and the front of the car

( Where the air conditioning thingy would normally be on the BA )


Also, where does that duct get its air from ? It looks like its coming from inside the cabin
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Old 21-01-2009, 01:01 PM   #18
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it's a Simota shielded filter. pretty much a diy copy of the Matty MX-5 intake which was a copy of the Loch Stewart MX-5 intake.



takes it's air from the windscreen/firewall cowl where the air is higher pressure.
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Old 22-01-2009, 07:34 AM   #19
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Hey schwinn I just removed the cover slightly under the left wheel arch n hacksaw the
resonator box off n pulled it out.

Last edited by Dobby69; 22-01-2009 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:20 AM   #20
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here is my setup,


just remove the air box, and plug it in after the sensor
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