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Old 01-03-2006, 12:09 PM   #1
Noble323
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Question's Reguarding Conversion's On BA Astina - Anyone To Help That Knows

Hi,

Okay Guys & Girls,
Since i sold my v6 hardtop astina about 5 months ago, ive been looking to buy another car, any car that i liked the style & shape but for some reason i just want a hardtop astina and at time regret selling it.

Okay i might be very very very interested in buying another Hardtop astina i dont know if it would be a v6 or a 4cyl, thats where i need the help, im seriously planning to do a conversion on one, but from the 2 different engines what is best engine for the v6 & 4, i need to know like straight fit, what extras would i need like maybe computer, intercooler sysytem etc....

So please for anyone that had done a conversion or knows, please help.

* Astina 4 cyl (1.8)
What engines are straight fit, stuff i need (computer, intercooler, all if needed) brakes, evrything, what it cost etc...

* Astina V6 (2.0)
What engines are straight fit, "and so on"

Seriously i have like 2 weeks to think about this very hard before i decide to go for something very different, also it all depends on the $$$$ spent if its way out of my budget, then im out !!!

PS : Sorry if there is another thread reguarding this, would be great if you can gimme the link, thanks.
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Old 01-03-2006, 12:52 PM   #2
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4 cyl - familia 1.8 turbo(BPT) 132kw at the fly, easyest way is to buy a half cut comes with almost everything, all you will prolly need to change is the intercooler and exhaust. prices i dont now but many other ppl have done it

v6 - jap spec MX6 2.5L V6(KL-ZE) 147kw at the fly, easyest way again would be half cut, prices ive seen are between 2000-2500, dont know install prices as every where is different, engine drops in with no problem, brakes on the v6 are bigger than the 1.8s so they will hold the bigger power

also if you are lookin at makin the car go much fast i will also look at the suspension to handle all the extra power
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Old 01-03-2006, 02:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRA23
v6 - jap spec MX6 2.5L V6(KL-ZE) engine drops in with no problem,
Hmm dunno about that straight fit remark,
It might be but I heard issues in regards to intake angles, the 2.0 and 2.5 are the same actual size block just the bits and pieces attach differently. I think the supposed issue maybe something like a straighter angle on the intake manifold on the 2.5, so a 2.0 manifold is retained. But this might be able to be fixed by moving the battery to the boot. Also this conversion is harder again in hatch (less room) but you want the hardtop (who wouldn’t??) so thats all good anyway. the Klze is a FAR less common conversion and as such exact prices are difficult for that reason. That being said if you need a fairly unskilled hand with this V6 conversion I will be there happily as I am thinking similar thoughts (but my wallet just laughs at the idea ATM). You can retain the KLZE ecu. If your are chasing huge power I think the klze is the way over the BPT, (fyi a transverse mounted klze has been worked to 1000HP)
The KLZE is a very much discussed but little done conversion in Australia (in the US they get dropped into K8powered 30Xs quite often), I am not aware of any that have gone at all far down the route than given up due to some technical reason.
If you do this you will have a very unique and powerful car, but you might also get very unique problems.
You will then need, front suspension upgrade, remove your strut brace I think, possible battery relocation kit, extractors (much easier then for 2.0), brakes would be an idea even if just crossdrilled rotors, plus other parts.
Dunno about gear box, if it is the plan to take it from a front cut but a lot of KL-ZE come from autos

All that being said I haven’t done it
I am just collecting info from what I have been told so anything I have said is not from experience little more than parroting,
DO REMEMBER THAT.


I have heard about 5000 all told for a BPT conversion and a fair few guys here have done so help/advise is around. Smart idea is to get an 94/early95 4cyc due to stronger G series box.

But I think someone on hear is thinking of selling or was (jynx) so have a look at that angle if your thinking BPT.




Yeap slow day at work, what again, yes again, is it always like that, Yeap you bet ya.
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Old 01-03-2006, 02:46 PM   #4
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If you're going 1.8, get a BA11P1 which has the G series as standard.

The cars are basically the same, except the V6 has 5 stud wheels which opens up your wheel choices more

I personally think you've got more to play with if you go BPT, as you can always easily bolt on a bigger turbo, whereas with the V6 you'd have to open up the engine of the KLZE to increase performance significantly after the initial conversion.

But having said that, if i'd bought a V6 i would have done the 2.5 conversion long ago
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Old 01-03-2006, 03:24 PM   #5
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whats the go on 2.5l V6 gear box?

and very true about the bigger turbo etc on the bpt, but I think driveability will suffer.


rupe what did you get out of your BPT (wasn't it) prior to umm interference and keen to have guesstimate at the cost of each?
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:02 PM   #6
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V6 gets the G as standard from what i understand, but i'd assume with a V6-specific bellhousing...as i'd assume the engiens have a different bolt pattern but i've never compared.

i got 194kw atw (which was limited by the stock fuel pump!) but that was with a T03/T04 turbo which was too big really - too laggy (but the push in the back when it spooled was awesome). But having the bigger turbo saved gearboxes as the stress wasn't on the box until it was already spinning quickly.

As to cost, probably a 2.5 conversion woudl be cheaper as there's no cooler/piping etc, as it's more or less just bolting the same engine in (from what i understand) and connecting things up
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Last edited by Rupewrecht; 01-03-2006 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:49 PM   #7
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I think you might want to talk to boosted batman. He's done this exact conversion (2.0 V6 - 2.5 V6) and he seems a might happy with it. I'm also thinking of doing it, so i'll let you kno0w what progress i make. As far as i know buying and bringing a half cut shouldn't be much more then $1500 give or take. If you don't have connections in Japan, then go to a reputable importer and they can look after you for a few hundred dollar commision.
That said, don't be put off. Have a feeling that the KL-ZE looks about the cheapest way to 147KW. Thats some serious power in a car which ways 1215 kilos wet.
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:52 AM   #8
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Something to remember with BPT engines is that it is very easy to remove the stock boost solinoid and get 2 - 3 PSI extra boost instantly. It seriously takes 5 mins. 3 more PSI will prob = 10 more KW ATW?
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Old 02-03-2006, 11:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian
Something to remember with BPT engines is that it is very easy to remove the stock boost solinoid and get 2 - 3 PSI extra boost instantly. It seriously takes 5 mins. 3 more PSI will prob = 10 more KW ATW?
You only get the extra boost under 5500rpm which is when the solenoid opens
to allow more boost so overall there is no extra kw at the wheels but the
0-60 challenge will be a lot better as you got up to 14psi at 3000rpm and not
5500.

As for whats involved in a BPT conversion thats what the big sticky in forced
induction is for.
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Old 06-03-2006, 12:08 PM   #10
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with the V6 you use the Mellenia model intake and it will clear the bonnet. they use it on the 30x soit should do the business
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Old 06-03-2006, 12:27 PM   #11
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was just reading about the Mazda Cosmo, A 206KW 20B powered 1600Kg monster coupe that has the same front brakes as the V6 Astina,

So they should be alright I guess.
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Old 06-03-2006, 01:26 PM   #12
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I knew the astina V6 used the same as the 626 V6 but Never heard that with the cosmo. I know the v6 uses around 27? mm discs but I thought cosmo was bigger. Plus twin piston caliper. Either way The v6 brakes are fine for KL-ZE it's not a massive upgrade.
But on the cosmo - stock brakes are only good for about 3 corners, if you really want to know. they work but they don't last long.
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Old 06-03-2006, 01:51 PM   #13
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Quote is,

Oddly enough, Eunos 'did the cheap' in the braking department. Anti-lock single-pot calipers and ventilated discs - Mazda Astina V6 size at the front and late-929 size at the rear - struggle to manage the Cosmo's mass and accelerative urgency.

Shocked me too,
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Old 06-03-2006, 03:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skippy
and very true about the bigger turbo etc on the bpt, but I think driveability will suffer.
Just re-read the whole thread again and want to correct on this. My BPT
with VF8 hybrid turbo with 160kw atw is as just as much fun to drive down
low only ever issue I have is sometimes wish you could downshift to first
a bit earlier I basically need to stop to do it so slight roll starts in 2nd are
a little hard.
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Old 06-03-2006, 04:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMal
wish you could downshift to first a bit earlier I basically need to stop to do it so slight roll starts in 2nd are a little hard.
I thought going back to first always had to be done at almost no speed, isn't that the norm??
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Old 06-03-2006, 04:48 PM   #16
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with my ba 1.8 with a g - series box i can down shift back to first at 35 km with out a problem no crunch or anything dosent seem to be hurting the car at all.
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:32 AM   #17
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Sorry for the hijack but this pisses me off badly and is the only reason I would ever consider getting an auto. Fyi this is my first manual car, So I wanna get this sorted cause curently slow moving traffic is horrible.

I have the V6 so G series box as well, and it just doesn't let me, well the gear box doesn't want to let me engage first, they is something blocking it, I probably could just heave it into first but I thought if it requires me to just ram it in I don't think Tina would like it So I have not done it.

FYI I know the G-series has snchros on first (and reverse) so yeah should I be able to put it into first while rolling?
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:44 AM   #18
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One of my old old boxes used to do that. From second, I just used to put it in neutral, bring the clutch up and raise the revs (to match them to to the equivalent rpms of 2nd to 1st) , then clutch in and into first . The only difference to normal downchange really being to completely disangage the gears by being in neutral with the clutch up. Used to help with it.
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:36 AM   #19
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Ill try that, thanks.

So that is not just a trait of all manual cars then?
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Old 09-03-2006, 12:13 PM   #20
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I think you'll find all manual cars are roughly the same in this regard, it's a question of how worn/new the synchros are.
Also you'll probably find that Rupes suggestion will work no probs. Double clutching allows you to change at any speed. Get into 1st with the engine screeming at 50kph and gun it those last 10ks. This dosen't make you any faster (slower in fact) but the V6 sounds gr8 up there

P.S. Rupe! I just saw my first episode of Garth Marenghi. Fell off the couch laughing!!!
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