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Old 29-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #21
Ice88
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If you can deck the block before the head. By decking the block your reducing your quench distance without affecting the head design etc etc.
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Old 29-10-2013, 11:44 AM   #22
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Quote:
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If you can deck the block before the head. By decking the block your reducing your quench distance without affecting the head design etc etc.
**** i'll do this to my block..

"gets out the belt sander"
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Old 29-10-2013, 12:08 PM   #23
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Haha...i've heard of dodgy workshops using beltsanders to deck the head before!! 60 thou puts it in interference valves/pistons territory so apart from a Gates racing cambelt, i'm looking at what other options there are for uprated belts.
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Old 31-10-2013, 05:59 PM   #24
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Playing with these tonight. Genuine made by denso, oem toyota goodness.
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Old 31-10-2013, 08:36 PM   #25
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Your Ford cam cover makes bebby jesus cry
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Old 31-10-2013, 09:06 PM   #26
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Got plans for that oval. You seen a peterbilt logo?
Talked to a trophy engraver about scribing 'ghettobuilt' in the peterbilt font. What do you think?
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Old 31-10-2013, 09:25 PM   #27
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Points for creativity, certainly

I can't talk though - my cam cover was a Ford one until i shaved everything off it.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:21 AM   #28
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Your Ford cam cover makes bebby jesus cry
I know the feeling, hate the look of my ford cover, makes it look slow and sh**y

I almost got defected for mine the other day, took me twenty minutes to explain that I don't need a mod plate as its not an engine conversion
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:04 PM   #29
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A shot of my modified gearbox mount with battery tray bracket cut off.

Last edited by ghetto3; 09-11-2013 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:39 PM   #30
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The build is progressing slowly, spending time gathering parts, wiring/painting and fixing up all the little stuff like fuel lines etc.
Ive rearranged alot of the wiring and gotten rid of a heap of uneeded circuits in the process. The whole car is pretty raw so i kept the theme going with the rewire, stripping the entire loom from the car and then reusing/replacing only what i need.

I've changed it again since this pic by placing bus bars and circuit breakers in an ip65 sealed box to neeten it up a bit.
The EWP controller directs both the water pump and the two rad. fans exclusively. The flasher unit is top right, the two lower fuse boxes are acc./ign.1 and ign.2. Auto reset circuit breakers are used on crucial circuits like headlights to stop intermittent shorts taking out the lights at inconvenient times. It needs cleaning up and then im onto the ecu wire in for
real (measured fifty odd times, about to
cut once i hope)

Last edited by ghetto3; 07-12-2013 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:57 PM   #31
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great job so far.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
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A shot of my modified gearbox mount with battery tray bracket cut off.
I want some of that resin goodness *slurp* *slurp*, where'd ya gitit? I remember looking into it ages back but forgot now. Want this for the B6 mounts



Now that's attention to detail. Would luv to do something similar albeit, simpler.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:43 PM   #33
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Just pulled up after painting my engine mounts (i used nuetral cure silicone rtv to fill them) and also painted cambelt covers with plastidipp (twice over due to a neighbour, a sandy lawn and a bl**dy mower intervening. He was mowing my lawn so i didnt wind up too much...more time to play car!)
I discoverd you can orange peel the plastidipp for a textured finish that hides imperfections well (serendipity speaking).
My clutch kit arrived, just an exedy HD, and im chasing up getting it balanced along with lightening the standard flywheel.
The head has had its vavles set with shims from www.precisionshims.com.au and if i can get my act together and drop the stem seals off it can all be buttoned up ready for installation.

Would love a lightweight chromoly flywheel, got the cash but not the patience to wait for it so researching how much i can trim off the stocker flywheel without it exploding and trimming parts of me.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:59 AM   #34
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Having issues locating the right driveshafts for the g box.
Every supplier worth his salt is suggesting BAp1 shafts are 26 spline inners? I need 28 inner spline/26 outer. I have the new in box shafts that came from the lazer lynx but without swinging the box in and test fitting, impossible at the mo' i cant assertain whether they are the right length.
Any imput would be appreciated as always.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:24 AM   #35
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I think the inners are the same as V6....but it's been many years since i looked into that sort of thing.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:27 AM   #36
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they're the same as the V6 and BJ SP20... 28 spline
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:44 AM   #37
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No probs with length differences between i4 and v6?
I really want to steer away from custom shafts.
So far ive ordered and returned two sets of shafts that were sworn to be the right ones after lengthy discussions on what i need .
We all know the calamities involved with disrepencies in parts catologues.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:41 AM   #38
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I'll check my paper work tonight at home. But from memory the outer joint on P1s is 26x30.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:59 AM   #39
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Its the 28 spline inner that is causing issues. If it were the outer splines causing issues i could swap the cv cup thingies around with compatible shafts that i have.
Thanks guys for your help.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:42 PM   #40
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Ok i swung the g box in and the lynx ps shaft seems to fit.
Can anyone verify if the lynx shafts are comparible in length to the correct Ba shafts? A 10mm difference would hardly be discernable visually but could have hardcore consequences down the track. Im hoping the mazda/ford guys used identical dimensions between the models. It'd make fiscal sense right?
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