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Old 20-08-2007, 04:19 AM   #81
Dingo_hunter
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oh ok, cool, can you suggest a place to get them? Or a specific brand? sorry to ask so many questions, but i dont have the internet at home, im replying from my phone! Haha
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Old 12-09-2007, 03:32 PM   #82
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Tip for anyone thinking about doing this:

Replace every one of the coolant lines on the GTX motor BEFORE you put it into the car, once the motor in is in many of them become massively difficult to access and given the age of these things prone to failure.

Sure they may hold water now - but it ain't no fun when you need to swap them later.

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Old 17-03-2008, 06:27 AM   #83
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I would like to ask a question. As far as my understanding, you guys mainly know BP and BPT engines on your Astinas somehow. So you all know the difference. I am talking about feelings rather than plain paper datas. What am I ganna get when I get BPT engine on my Astina? Sorry for keep asking but can't I use my BP engine as a basement for this project?
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Old 17-03-2008, 08:34 AM   #84
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a poop load more power
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Old 17-03-2008, 03:29 PM   #85
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you can use your standard BP engine...but wont have an as strong or good setup for the turbo... you will feel the torque kick in ie. slam you back in the seat...lets just say 1/4 mile times go from 16.5-17secs down to 14.5-15.5 secs...so its a fair bit quicker...
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Old 24-07-2008, 02:08 PM   #86
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Boosting My Redheaded Ho Of A Bp

Well First off I read this thread front to back a couple times just to make sure I am asking the right questions. But ofcourse there are some haze left.

These questions really are directed to Jynx,Mal and Rob but everyones input helps

I am in Collegeville PA USA so I got the **** end of the stick with no turbo bp models produced in the states! Oh Well!

I have a 97 Kia Sephia RS 1.8 DOHC forged crank and high lifted cams that come stock along with headers unlike the mazda LX . So its the best BP you can get in a states sold car and infact I have 2 of them.

My plan from the start was rally/everyday driver with about 250-300whp or 186-223KW atw

But a BPT or BPD clip isnt happening lets face its cheaper for me to fabricate alot of the stuff and I can and I rather spend my time then money.

Did I read right that the B6 robs are stronger then the BP? and how much stronger ? will it support 300whp ?

Now I wanted to jazz shizzle up a little by saying **** the stock turbo and take my stock tube headers and cut and reweld a T4 flange on just for a little something different so I have the option of throwing maybe a GT BB turbo on some day. Any draw backs or affects that I should know about anything to do with either the turbo or manifold ?

Well as many say the MT is a good ecu ! is it a direct replacement or piggyback or both ? alot of peoples threads kinda confused me there . along with what MT model is for me being I want to be able to switch between eco/and racing map by the push of a button .
And does it plug into a laptop to tune ?

Will my stock N/A intake Manifold do the job ? is there any gains or draw backs between them ? or do you think it would be worthless to mod the manifold for it? and is there any room for gains if I just Fabricate a manifold because that is an option too !

Now the head on my bp has a completely different cover on it then any other of the bp you guys are messing with, so is there any differents i don't see ? and are the cams in the turbo models different ? what about the chamebers ?

What CC injectors do you think work best for what I am talking about ?

Now this AFM boost cut problem seems to be a pain in the ass , has anyone figured out how to buffer the signal to the ECU to stop the cut off ?

Many thanks to all that can help me !

UV

Last edited by Ultraviolent; 24-07-2008 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Because I English Good lol
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:07 PM   #87
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hey ive heard some crap about Sp being easier to drop a bpt in then other astinas is it true, if not what do i have to do??
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Old 04-05-2009, 01:40 AM   #88
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maybe if it the normal SOHC gearbox didnt mate up with the BPT? otherwise it'd be the same conversion as as SP

haha just read the previous post for the first time. wasnt too bad until i saw that he wanted to just mod the NA headers for the turbo.. you know, just a minor issue that they point the wrong way. also how he wonders if they stock intake manifold is up for the job.. maybe not?
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Old 04-05-2009, 05:27 AM   #89
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f series box fits any bp engine. it will break with the aimed 300whp.

na headers, you'd need to cut off all the runners and start again. only using the bolt up plate to the head.

b6 and bp rods will not support 300whp.

his pistons will not support 300hp once you boost it to 17psi+ to gain 300whp.

davo, he has the same engine as us. think we can get 300whp from a ecu, turbo and some piping? um no...

full engine rebuild.
forged pistons.
billet rods.
adjustable cam gears (to decrease valve overlap).
full standalone ecu.
turbo.
turbo exhaust manifold (to be made).
lots of piping.
intercooler.
dump pipe (to be made).
exhaust.
fuel pump (dounno enough about sephia to know if stock one will survive).
fuel pressure regulator.
bigger injectors (maybe rx7 460cc ones if aiming at 300whp).
oil and water feed lines (holes will need to be drilled into the block).
oil and water return lines (1 hole in the sump and 1 hole in the header bypass pipe will need to be drilled).

and heaps of stuff i've forgotten off the top of my head.

and if doing competition work like rallying:-
remote oil filter.
oil cooler.
mazdaspeed oil pump (flows 30% more).
alloy radiator.
all new water pipes.

ryan

p.s. and you don't need 300whp for rallying. 100whp will do it.
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Old 04-05-2009, 11:29 AM   #90
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yeah i know thats why i found it amusing, especially him wondering if he'd need to mod the stock NA intake for it... probably, gonna be difficult to make boost if you dont!

with 300whp the issue wouldnt so much be the engine anymore than the fact you'd have to completely rebuild the gearbox or risk it going every race, esp with the weak 3rd
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:09 PM   #91
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sorry boys i dont really get it, its that a yes or no?

Sorry long day
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:47 PM   #92
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the chassis is exactly the same in 'dropping it in' respect..fitement is exactly the same..wat they are saying is sp (dohc) gearbox is alot stronger than the standard f series (sohc) gearbox...

if wanted to upgrade to g series (dohc gearbox) u would need gearbox, driveshafts,and front n rear engine/gearbox mount brackets...

in addition sp brakes are bigger also......
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Old 25-05-2009, 07:10 PM   #93
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thanks for that guys i think i will be doing the transplant fairly soon, just dont want any drama (but will always have a few) :P
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Old 12-11-2009, 01:18 PM   #94
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If you switch to a BPT or BPD, what do you guys do about aircon? Do you need to get the aircon unit from a GTX as well?

Also if you had a choice between a 15,000km BPT or a 100,000km BPD, which would you get?
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Old 12-11-2009, 01:29 PM   #95
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The BPT/BPD engine blocks are all but identical so you can use your standard A/C pump. If you were doing the swap yourself you would unbolt it and hang it out of the way so you didn't need to re-gas the system when the swap is complete.
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:20 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phly View Post
If you switch to a BPT or BPD, what do you guys do about aircon? Do you need to get the aircon unit from a GTX as well?

Also if you had a choice between a 15,000km BPT or a 100,000km BPD, which would you get?

i kept the standard a/c in the BA when we did the transplant, worked like charm, aslong as you retain the standard dump everything fits nicely, its only if you go for a custom dump pipe then you can run into some clearance issues depending on the size and angle of it obviously.

as for the engine, tough call. If they both were being rebuilt i'd definately go the BPD. But if you were putting them in as they are its a tough call. I am still kicking myself for not going with the BPD when i did my conversion, mainly because of the forged bottom end that the BPT does not have.

Another factor that would make my mind up would be the price diff between the two.

the BPD may put a fair bit of extra stress on the gearbox if its a stock gseries, 3 gear probably wont last too long.

tough call mate
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Old 21-07-2010, 12:41 PM   #97
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Any tips on maintenance for the system after doing an engine swap, other than the obvious seals, lubricants and coolants?
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Old 21-07-2010, 12:48 PM   #98
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buy a new radiator cap... We had a member a few years ago that did the swap, and it always overheated, he changed radiators, hoses, the lot, and with all that, still had the original radiator cap!

Older members will know who I am talking about
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:30 AM   #99
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New as in from dealership? Or whatever fits?
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:18 PM   #100
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new se7en lol
wouldnt get 1 from mazda to expensive
just go repco or the equivelent in tazzy
just need the same pressure threshold as the orginal of the system
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