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Old 14-12-2005, 08:06 PM   #21
deruss
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Pfft! It's been almost a year and I still haven't done it anyway, ahwell.

Anyway, a year on is a good time for a report. Still enjoying the roundabouts, but not enough opportunity for long drives on curvy roads Never felt like I've pushed it to its limits, which is ok in a way I guess.

Still have a squeek in frontright strut, been meaning to take it out and reassemble. Also now hearing the sound of the dampers moving (that air noise) much more noticably on front right and rear right.

Getting very tired of speedbumps and level crossings, wondering how to reduce the harshness without compromising the handling. Test drove new Mazda6 Classic the other day - v. nice handling without the bodyshocks! I want that in my stina! :P
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Old 10-01-2006, 12:47 AM   #22
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nice 1 im gona need that tutorial soon
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:50 PM   #23
phoenix steve
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rear strut brace BA

hey guys can anyone tell me if it worthwhile limiting hatch space by leaving the rear brace between the strut towers on a BA? regards steve.
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Old 09-02-2008, 11:34 PM   #24
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I found that it didnt take up much space at all.

Mind you, my boot has been reserved for the stereo equipment, I use the back seat to carry stuff mostly.
I think the addition of the rear strut brace made a minimal improvement on handling. One thing you can do is use the quick-release bolts that you can find the hubs of bicycle wheels. That should let you remove the brace relatively easily if you need to carry something big.
I haven't tried it though !
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:01 AM   #25
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I have tried it, take about 15 secs to remove each release bolt. And out the brace pops.

I found it made a big difference in my handling. But only in the high end speeds where the car is being pushed to limits etc.

Ryan
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Old 15-03-2008, 07:18 PM   #26
walterkramer
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Talking

mate been a ex wheel aligner myself what they done and told you with taken
the wheel off is true.
however when you put the new ones in the top bolt is the adjuster and the
bottom one standed don,t do them up to tight as they have to be adjusted
on the wheel aligner machine
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Old 09-09-2008, 07:47 AM   #27
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i know i'm reviving an old thread but i have a bit of a problem, during my install of my rear sway bar this occured



what can i do to save it?
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Old 30-03-2010, 09:01 AM   #28
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Can anyone point me in the direction of a guide detailing the replacement of the front swaybar D shackle bushes on a BA 4cyl?
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:20 AM   #29
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i need some pics
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Old 18-02-2011, 09:59 AM   #30
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Rather than start another thread, I am looking for advice for replacement of all the bushings in my poor clunky car.. either astina specific or a good guide from someone else with techniques etc. Looking to do it over the next few days. Ill do a decent write up of the whole process to help everyone else who hasn't done it. Especially interested in what's required for front swaybar bushes and exactly why its so hard! Cheers guys
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Old 18-02-2011, 10:07 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001 View Post
Especially interested in what's required for front swaybar bushes and exactly why its so hard!
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=15
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Old 18-02-2011, 10:37 AM   #32
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there is no real need to touch the steering. access to the front bolt can be had from the wheel wells. the rear one is hidden and you do need to drop the sub frame to access it.
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Old 18-02-2011, 01:38 PM   #33
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yeah the front end is a pain. even with a hoist it took me 3 hrs... removing the engine would be the easiest as what the others have said.
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Old 18-02-2011, 02:11 PM   #34
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so... anyone up for a bit of fun tomorrow?
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Old 18-02-2011, 02:58 PM   #35
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tomorrow no. but in a week yes.
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Old 24-03-2011, 06:58 AM   #36
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good write up post some pics
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:40 PM   #37
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Anyone know if these kits are still avaliable?
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:34 PM   #38
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Bought the rear bar last year or early this yr...
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