Go Back   AstinaGT Forums > Performance & Technical > Interior & Electrics

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 22-02-2012, 10:31 PM   #21
Clean_Cookie
obsessed-incomplete-broke
 
Clean_Cookie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
They easily transferred though?
__________________
Worklog
Clean_Cookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-02-2012, 10:48 PM   #22
project.r.racing
Senior Member
 
project.r.racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: n/a
Car: n/a
Posts: 10,929
yup. wiring plug the same. 3x chassis bolts the same.
project.r.racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 02:42 PM   #23
323astina97
Junior Member
 
323astina97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: QLD
Car: 97' 323 Astina BA
Posts: 68
Here's photos of both sides, I noticed the adjusters are different, maybe the previous owner has put in two different series headlights? lol
Drivers side:

Passenger: (the one that stopped working)

here's the cars info sticker, I see a P3 in the vin, so meaning series 3?
323astina97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 04:04 PM   #24
Cosmo Dude
コスモ
 
Cosmo Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
Posts: 7,888
Check you are turning the correct adjuster.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
__________________
My 'stina Hatch
Cosmo Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 04:24 PM   #25
Clean_Cookie
obsessed-incomplete-broke
 
Clean_Cookie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
Yes,p3. The difference lies in the manufacturer... Either Bosch or kioto or however its spelt!
__________________
Worklog
Clean_Cookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 05:18 PM   #26
323astina97
Junior Member
 
323astina97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: QLD
Car: 97' 323 Astina BA
Posts: 68
So any reason why the two adjuster blocks look different? and why are one of the 4 headlight housings upside down? :S looks like it to me, maybe that's why one won't adjust and points right down? lol, but cheers for that pic (love to know why that isn't in my manual lol) I'll try adjusting again tonight and see how it goes, cheers.

And so P3 means series 3?
323astina97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #27
Clean_Cookie
obsessed-incomplete-broke
 
Clean_Cookie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Brisbane
Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch
Posts: 5,441
The pages cosmos uploaded are not from the standard car manual, but a workshop one, which can be purchased for about 120 incase you were wondering!
__________________
Worklog
Clean_Cookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 05:31 PM   #28
Cosmo Dude
コスモ
 
Cosmo Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
Posts: 7,888
The upside down one is in wrong. Have a look at the bulb, if the last person couldn't put the cover back together what's the chance they put the right bulb back in or did it properly.
Have a look at the top of the headlight on the black plastic directly above the bulb to see which is the correct bulb for that headlight as different years had different bulbs.
Blocks and bulbs may be different if your car had a broken headlight which was replaced with one from a different year.
__________________
My 'stina Hatch
Cosmo Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 05:33 PM   #29
Cosmo Dude
コスモ
 
Cosmo Dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Location: Vic
Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD
Posts: 7,888
Oh and P3 is 1.8 litre series three. It would be F3 if it were 2.0 litre series three.
Diagram taken from Vol II of the P2/F2 workshop manual
__________________
My 'stina Hatch
Cosmo Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 06:11 PM   #30
323astina97
Junior Member
 
323astina97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: QLD
Car: 97' 323 Astina BA
Posts: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo Dude View Post
The upside down one is in wrong. Have a look at the bulb, if the last person couldn't put the cover back together what's the chance they put the right bulb back in or did it properly.
Have a look at the top of the headlight on the black plastic directly above the bulb to see which is the correct bulb for that headlight as different years had different bulbs.
Blocks and bulbs may be different if your car had a broken headlight which was replaced with one from a different year.
Yeah something isn't right, I'll have to take it out and see what's going on, any good tuts on removing the headlight/the bulb casing etc? or is it just a simple job? don't want to break anything that's all.

And so the workshops get the info WE need yet we don't have it in our manual?... typical :|
323astina97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 06:23 PM   #31
mikey_something
Senior Member
 
mikey_something's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NSW
Car: 1998 Toyota Supra 3.0L Twin Turbo
Posts: 1,413
Pretty sure removal of headlight is universal for all 3.
Remove 3 bolts:
One towards the outside of the car on the front face of the headlight, get down at eye level to spot it, will need a long socket or a straight styled socket.
One towards the middle of the car again on the front face of the headlight, should be very easy to see.
One on top about half way.

Wiggle the headlight out, there's a pin (can't remember where) that once you feel it release will give you a lot more freedom to manipulate the headlight.
Just tilt, wiggle, twist whatever it'll come out.

The plastic bulb covers just twist off, maybe a quarter turn in a direction then they pull off.

The bulbs are held in by a metal clip, should be pretty obvious how it removes, I think it's a squeeze an push down to get under the hooks then it flips away. Remove the power and ground wires (remember where they go) and then pull the bulb out.
The bulbs obviously only go in one way (look at the shape).

Installation is the reverse.


Oh forgot, best to remove plastic headlight covers if you have them first so you don't break them or whatever.

Shouldn't take you long at all.
mikey_something is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 10:33 PM   #32
phildough
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brisneyland, Queensland
Car: 2002 Mazda Frankenstina
Posts: 2,868
Also don't touch the bulbs while you have them out, if you do wipe them with a clean paper towel soaked in meths or iso.
The oil from you fingers will cause the bulbs to blow.
phildough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2012, 10:51 PM   #33
323astina97
Junior Member
 
323astina97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: QLD
Car: 97' 323 Astina BA
Posts: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey_something View Post
Pretty sure removal of headlight is universal for all 3.
Remove 3 bolts:
One towards the outside of the car on the front face of the headlight, get down at eye level to spot it, will need a long socket or a straight styled socket.
One towards the middle of the car again on the front face of the headlight, should be very easy to see.
One on top about half way.

Wiggle the headlight out, there's a pin (can't remember where) that once you feel it release will give you a lot more freedom to manipulate the headlight.
Just tilt, wiggle, twist whatever it'll come out.

The plastic bulb covers just twist off, maybe a quarter turn in a direction then they pull off.

The bulbs are held in by a metal clip, should be pretty obvious how it removes, I think it's a squeeze an push down to get under the hooks then it flips away. Remove the power and ground wires (remember where they go) and then pull the bulb out.
The bulbs obviously only go in one way (look at the shape).

Installation is the reverse.


Oh forgot, best to remove plastic headlight covers if you have them first so you don't break them or whatever.

Shouldn't take you long at all.
Much obliged sir, I'll to it tomorrow when I get a chance, might even fix the problem and won't need a whole new headlight *fingers crossed*

Yeah I keep reading not to touch the bulbs, I'll be sure to avoid that.
323astina97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-02-2012, 08:07 PM   #34
323astina97
Junior Member
 
323astina97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: QLD
Car: 97' 323 Astina BA
Posts: 68
Funny, the mechanic tried to fix my headlight problem (for free during another repair), turns out they must have totally missed some of the adjusters shown in that workshop manual, because I tried them and they worked for me! low beams are fine now... yet the mechanic told me there were broken... morons, high beam might be broken they're a bit tricky to adjust but the low beams are good now, I rarely use the high beams anyway so will just fix that later.

Amazing that a mechanic can't do the simplest things.
__________________
One Astina ad I remember the most had in it's description: "Has never been driven by P platers" - Harsh! lol
323astina97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-02-2012, 01:24 AM   #35
rodhog
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sydney Lakemba
Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT
Posts: 2,024
Quote:
Originally Posted by 323astina97 View Post
Funny, the mechanic tried to fix my headlight problem (for free during another repair), turns out they must have totally missed some of the adjusters shown in that workshop manual, because I tried them and they worked for me! low beams are fine now... yet the mechanic told me there were broken... morons, high beam might be broken they're a bit tricky to adjust but the low beams are good now, I rarely use the high beams anyway so will just fix that later.

Amazing that a mechanic can't do the simplest things.
Seriously you think Merchanics are really going to spend more then say 10mins looking at it. Lucky if they do. Fix something for free as well ?

But this must becoming a more common problem. Wasn't when i had my BA.
When I get back on my feet I will dig up my old headlamps Kept them for spare but now as I have desire for another BA. I'll sell it off or strip it and sell it off.

Reason I replaced it was because the Reflector pivot was worn out and it kept poping out over bumps. headlamp was repaired in a accident when it was originally sold as well. Look for any plastic or discolourtation of the frame BA's and GE's in the 90's were very commonly headlight repaired because Insurance companys didn't like replacement costs. One reason they had higher insurance cost.
rodhog is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +10. The time now is 11:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
2001- 2010 AstinaGT