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Old 31-12-2005, 06:24 PM   #1
DrSilver
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power window not closing

this is probably an old topic but my front driver`s side window is not closing!! and it s going to rain tonight. The window started playing up a while ago by closing very very slowly(opening is very quick though...strange). I took the door cover off but cant find anything wrong with the connections. I sprayed silicon spray and dw40 on the rubber and on the motor but nothing!

any ideas? that kinda sucks `cos i really need my car for tonight
I got a garbage bag to cover my window!
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Old 31-12-2005, 06:34 PM   #2
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a little something called window regulator. that does suck coz i cant imagine them being cheap. and if thats ur car in ur avatar u will need to buy a new motor as well because hyundai dont sell them as one piece.
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Old 31-12-2005, 07:08 PM   #3
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oh no!!! thanks anyways!
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Old 31-12-2005, 07:46 PM   #4
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Does it do anything?
My 929 gets stuck but if I pull on the window and press the switch I can coax it to the top.
Else it's plastic and tape, It's gonna rain big time tonight, collect two of everything.
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:19 PM   #5
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it used to go up very very slowly, but now, i cant hear anything! when i pressed the button down, i can hear the motor working but when i press it up, nothing!
I tried pulling the window, but it wont move a millimetre. where is a good place to have it repaired? an autoelectrician, or just a mechanic? Im not going to teh dearlership because they will rip me off majorly!

I was thinking of buying a second hand motor considering that the regulator does not come separate for hyundais...any ideas how to replace it if i decide to do it myself?? it looks a bit complicated in there...do i need to get the window out first(and how?)

lol...i used a bin bag and tape to cover my window last night!
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Old 01-01-2006, 04:02 PM   #6
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Normaly the window can stay in but needs to be about 50% up to get to the nuts 'n' bolts easily.
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Old 01-01-2006, 05:44 PM   #7
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um...i was playing around with my power window today, checked all the wiring, fuses, motor, regulator and could not find anything wrong. The motor even tries to go down when i press the close button. I then decided to open the master switch up and found out that if i join both contacts for closing the window, the window actually closes real quick!!... which means that the master switch must be faulty! Ill get an autoelectrician to double check that b4 i go buy another one.

what do u think cosmo?
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:27 PM   #8
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I'd have cleaned the contacts with steel wool before I put it back together. That may just fix it.
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:22 PM   #9
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I had the rear drivers side window stop working, found a dry joint on the PCB in the front door, also cleaned the contacts while I had it apart and now I have rocket windows hahahaha, anyway - as Cosmo says, try cleaning the contacts carfully, oh, and don't try to cheat and use that "electrical contact cleaner in a can" crap, it don't do squat on these door switch contacts.
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Old 04-01-2006, 09:52 PM   #10
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If I press the button very very hard, the power window works! U reckon it could be a faulty motor?? or just the switch??
I havent had a chance to book my car in at an autoelectrician....

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Old 05-01-2006, 03:54 PM   #11
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if it was the motor it wouldnt work at all would it??
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:34 PM   #12
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Sounds like contacts need cleaning. Just don't push the switch too hard or you could crack the PCB that the switch mounts onto..... then again, it could be the problem to start with, maybe you have a cracked board under the switch.
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Old 05-01-2006, 09:53 PM   #13
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its the contacts in the switch for sure ... mine has the same problem ... what you will need to do is partly dissassemble the mast window switch until you have the PCB with four switches on it! DONT take the switches apart ... just spray a little contact cleaner in the little slits on the side, i used wd40 and it did the job. becareful the clearner doesnt eat the plastic tho!
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:47 PM   #14
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just came back from one of my best friend`s wedding in Geelong. It was great!! had an awesome time

Thanks for the advise Nate...Ill try the dw40 first. I enquired about the price of a brand new switch today and guess how much??...$378!!!! I am definitely not buying a brand new one!

ps: I already broke the plastic door pull where the master switch sits in when i removed the door cover....it had cracked around the area where the screw goes in...bought a new one for $27...not too bad I guess.

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Old 06-01-2006, 11:28 AM   #15
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If you're going to use a spray try and use a proper contact cleaner. I don't mean the cheap stuff either. The best stuff I've found has been the phillips contact cleaner, it is more greasy than others but it works much better. WD40 can work, but you'll find decent contact cleaner will work much better and last longer. The best solution is to use the contact cleaner and do a clean up with 'wet and dry'.
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:33 PM   #16
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Well, being an electronics design engineer I can say that if you worked in electronics and got caught spraying WD40 into anything electronic or electrical you would be shot then hung up on the nearest 11kV line for a month..... Did anyone stop to check if WD40 is flammable??? I think it is. Does anyone realise that WD40 leaves a residue lubricant behind that is not electrically conductive??? It does, and does anyone realise that the lubricant will soften and crack the plastic over time too????
Anyway, if you MUST cheat and go the easy way out then use a good quality electronics SWITCH CONTACT SPRAY - one that is FOR switch contacts, don't use PCB cleaner (it will "dry out" the plastic and cause it to crack and break real quick) and don't use a flux remover (it will do the same as PCB cleaner but over a little longer time, like months instead of weeks) and don't use a spray lube or water dispersant (they will both coat the contacts with non conductive coatings that will stop things working all together).
Pull 'em apart or use REAL switch cleaner, it's worth the effort/expense.
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:54 PM   #17
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Back as an apprentice I had a contact cleaner consisting of a HFC with a CFC propellant (can anyone spell hole in the ozone layer) but it worked a treat. Visit a good electronics shop (like radio parts) and ask for 'micro scrub' It looks like the soft side of velcro and will clean contacts realy well but you have to take the switch apart.
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:57 PM   #18
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Oh yeah, a realy good electronics shop. The halfwits at Dick Smith, Tandy or Jaycar will just look at you with a blank face and try to sell you a radio controlled car
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:07 PM   #19
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Yeah, walk into [insert electronics store name here] and ask for switch contact cleaner and they look at you for a minute then say "switches are over here...", then you say "contact cleaner" and they say "virus program for a PDA?" then you say no, for a switch.... "oh, switches are over here..." [walk slowly from the store mumbling about incompetent brain dead moronic over-educated university graduate box stackers]
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Old 06-01-2006, 09:35 PM   #20
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WD40 is the stuff of champions dammit ... the only reason i didnt use contact cleaner was i remember my mate spraying his phone with some and the whole thing falling apart in his hands! msut have be PCB cleaner ... anyway i have two switches, one i bought broken cheaply and i used it to do a switch transplant on my drivers window ... works a treat now
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