thermal loading

ghetto3 · 21-10-2013, 03:04 AM

I modifyed my bp water pump to run an electric water pump

I'm worried that it will cause a bit of a thermal shock to no.1 cylinder

There is a straight shot into the gallery and i'm thinking a baffle of sorts, conical in shape might be needed to spread the coolant out similar to an original vaned impellor does.
The return hose from the air seperator might help to turbulate the flow a little:

Anyone have thoughts on this one?

ghetto3 · 21-10-2013, 12:49 PM

Here is the ewp run.
I'm concerned about cylinder 1 running cooler than the other three, similar in recpect to the hot no.4 cylinder problems the mx5 guys have because of their particular coolant flow arrangement. Moreso i'm concerned it may cause more than just a tuning issue (which is easier thanks to individual cylinder tuning with itbs).
The objective is to lessen the immediate load on the crankshaft by removing water pump pulley in the name of response and, well because i can..

Orion · 21-10-2013, 02:58 PM

I don't think that there will be enough temperature difference to be concerned about different cylinder temps. While you will flow more coolant through the radiator at idle, leading to lower coolant temps, I think the difference won't be as big as you seem to be implying.

Just having a look at your photos, what size line are you running between the EWP and the block? Looks small and a potential restriction on how much coolant will flow.

ghetto3 · 21-10-2013, 03:30 PM

It's -16an line, davies craig offer an adaptor, the alloy one pictured attatched to the ewp proper, so i figured it'd be adequate for the job. Even the newer, larger pumps for v8s' have a -16an female thread.
The bugger is that the adaptor provided to fit the sensor in the top hose is 32mm making it difficult to mount the sensor. So i did this...

Incidentally, the heater core outlet still shown on this spare head, was pulled out and replaced with a welded on -6an bung to feed the greddy air seperator. It is a great place to bleed off any trapped air into the seperator.

rodhog · 21-10-2013, 03:56 PM

depends on how you set it up. But as long as you don't reverse the flow - Don't laugh some are stupid enough to try **** like that and not even flush the system.

but as long as the desired out come is achieved

Orion · 21-10-2013, 06:42 PM

Ahh, AN-16 should be just fine. Sorry, was a bit difficult to get a sense of scale from the pictures.

I considered an EWP at one stage but the build was getting a bit out of hand, so for now I'll stick with the mechanical water pump.

I'll keep a keen interest on your results though. Cheers

Old Grey · 19-11-2013, 10:20 PM

Every engine suffers temperature distribution problems - except probably the RB30 with the priority feed water gallery cast in the block -. I have measured a 12A rotary where the temp going into the first housing was 82ºC, but by the time it exited the 2nd housing's front face it was closer to 100ºC. In racing they put a restrictor in place of the thermostat to slow the flow and increase the block pressure - higher pressure higher boiling point -. V8's about 550hp use around a 16mm hole. If you are not using a thermostat block the bypass and put a restrictor in it.

21-10-2013, 03:04 AM	#1
ghetto3 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: north coast nsw Car: 97 ba 1.8 323 Posts: 799	thermal loading I modifyed my bp water pump to run an electric water pump I'm worried that it will cause a bit of a thermal shock to no.1 cylinder There is a straight shot into the gallery and i'm thinking a baffle of sorts, conical in shape might be needed to spread the coolant out similar to an original vaned impellor does. The return hose from the air seperator might help to turbulate the flow a little: Anyone have thoughts on this one? Last edited by ghetto3; 21-10-2013 at 03:06 AM.

21-10-2013, 02:58 PM	#3
Orion SP20 Member! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Brisbane Car: Mazda SP20 sedan Posts: 1,769 View Photos By: Orion	I don't think that there will be enough temperature difference to be concerned about different cylinder temps. While you will flow more coolant through the radiator at idle, leading to lower coolant temps, I think the difference won't be as big as you seem to be implying. Just having a look at your photos, what size line are you running between the EWP and the block? Looks small and a potential restriction on how much coolant will flow. __________________ Exhaust: Autoexe headers; Custom midpipe; Racing Beat catback Engine: AWR mounts; Twiggy cams; Custom CAI; RR Racing UDP; Mishimoto rad EMS: Microtech LT-10; J&S Safeguard; Gearbox: MSP LSD; Fidanza flywheel; 5th gear Rims/Suspension: MX-5 rims; Tokico Illuminas; Eibach Pro-kit; Progress RSB; AutoExe STB Exterior: MSP front lip & rear spoiler; Matt V headlights; AutoExe grill; EDM tails Interior: JVC AVX-77; Autometer gauges; DaveBs; B&M shifter Projects to come: Engine rebuild

21-10-2013, 03:30 PM	#4
ghetto3 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: north coast nsw Car: 97 ba 1.8 323 Posts: 799	It's -16an line, davies craig offer an adaptor, the alloy one pictured attatched to the ewp proper, so i figured it'd be adequate for the job. Even the newer, larger pumps for v8s' have a -16an female thread. The bugger is that the adaptor provided to fit the sensor in the top hose is 32mm making it difficult to mount the sensor. So i did this... Incidentally, the heater core outlet still shown on this spare head, was pulled out and replaced with a welded on -6an bung to feed the greddy air seperator. It is a great place to bleed off any trapped air into the seperator. Last edited by ghetto3; 22-10-2013 at 04:32 PM.

21-10-2013, 06:42 PM	#6
Orion SP20 Member! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Brisbane Car: Mazda SP20 sedan Posts: 1,769 View Photos By: Orion	Ahh, AN-16 should be just fine. Sorry, was a bit difficult to get a sense of scale from the pictures. I considered an EWP at one stage but the build was getting a bit out of hand, so for now I'll stick with the mechanical water pump. I'll keep a keen interest on your results though. Cheers __________________ Exhaust: Autoexe headers; Custom midpipe; Racing Beat catback Engine: AWR mounts; Twiggy cams; Custom CAI; RR Racing UDP; Mishimoto rad EMS: Microtech LT-10; J&S Safeguard; Gearbox: MSP LSD; Fidanza flywheel; 5th gear Rims/Suspension: MX-5 rims; Tokico Illuminas; Eibach Pro-kit; Progress RSB; AutoExe STB Exterior: MSP front lip & rear spoiler; Matt V headlights; AutoExe grill; EDM tails Interior: JVC AVX-77; Autometer gauges; DaveBs; B&M shifter Projects to come: Engine rebuild

21-10-2013, 12:49 PM	#2
ghetto3 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: north coast nsw Car: 97 ba 1.8 323 Posts: 799	Here is the ewp run. I'm concerned about cylinder 1 running cooler than the other three, similar in recpect to the hot no.4 cylinder problems the mx5 guys have because of their particular coolant flow arrangement. Moreso i'm concerned it may cause more than just a tuning issue (which is easier thanks to individual cylinder tuning with itbs). The objective is to lessen the immediate load on the crankshaft by removing water pump pulley in the name of response and, well because i can..

21-10-2013, 03:56 PM	#5
rodhog Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sydney Lakemba Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT Posts: 2,024 View Photos By: rodhog	depends on how you set it up. But as long as you don't reverse the flow - Don't laugh some are stupid enough to try **** like that and not even flush the system. but as long as the desired out come is achieved

19-11-2013, 10:20 PM	#7
Old Grey Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Sydney Car: Astina BG 1991 - Rx7 S4 Posts: 105	Every engine suffers temperature distribution problems - except probably the RB30 with the priority feed water gallery cast in the block -. I have measured a 12A rotary where the temp going into the first housing was 82ºC, but by the time it exited the 2nd housing's front face it was closer to 100ºC. In racing they put a restrictor in place of the thermostat to slow the flow and increase the block pressure - higher pressure higher boiling point -. V8's about 550hp use around a 16mm hole. If you are not using a thermostat block the bypass and put a restrictor in it.