Headlights in Oven to Remove Resin/Glue

[project.r.racing]

I found this thread-
http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showt...headlight+oven

Need to do it as I killed another headlight at the Mazda drive day today.

150 deg celcius good for BA headlight?

I'd assume you need to remove the metal clips before hand. Will the metal pieces/clip be an issues behind the reflectors? Can they stay?

[RustyKaos]

From what I have researched use only 100 C because if it is set too high it can warp the plastic parts.

[Rupewrecht]

150° Farenheight.

[70NYD]

i can reccomend 150 for around 5 minutes, as it melts the glue better. i seperated my taillights 2night, 100C at 10 min did soften the glue but as soon as i went to seperate the corner cracked LOL so i stuck it back in at 150 for 5 minutes and it melted the glue perfectly. the other taillight i did at 150 for 5 minutes 1st go to soften the glue and seperate the 1st corner (as this takes the most time if done carefully, the glue starts resetting by the time the corner is pryed enough to wedge something in) then i stuck it back on for another 3 minutes and this was enough for the glue to soften enough to pull apart in one go wish i did use 150 rather than 100 the 1st time or i wouldnt have a cracked lense lol (only cracked a 5mm triangle out, i glued it back in LOL)
when i did the headlights i did 100 as well to no avail.. (perhaps cus i dont have a fanforced oven, this might be the difference) and ended up using 150 as well. assuming ur oven is fanforced stick the fan on and do it to 100, if it works awesome

[SP BLING]

I found 100 degrees (C) worked fine for me ~ 5-10 minutes

[bourbon]

put it as low temprature as possible for longer...better not to shock the glass into cracking as well

[project.r.racing]

cheers guys. i'll try 100 deg (C) 1st. go higher if i need to.

[Brisbane_boy]

Ill be doing this soon. maby even this weekend or before.
Ill paint the inside of my lights black.

[project.r.racing]

i'm doing it cos of this!



i have one headlight with broken glass, and one with broken plastics.

[RustyKaos]

How the hell did that happen?

[bourbon]

lakeside is a deadly offender

[RustyKaos]

But that was from ages ago. What about the other one how did the plastic break?

[BG1.8sp]

on the 300zx's they recommend 180deg Celsius...
however. do not actually put the whole light into the oven... rather let is rest on the door for 15-20mins. that way it just heats the glass and glue, but not the plastic.
this is mainly due to the old plastic which has a low melting point,,, and its not worth risking. you just have to work one side at a time on the 300's , but due to the shape of the mazda light you will probably be able to just do it all at once,,, if not, you will atleast get 3/4 way round be4 it cools and you need to he heat for another 5 mins

[project.r.racing]

Originally Posted by RustyKaos

But that was from ages ago. What about the other one how did the plastic break?

when i smashed the wall last november, it broke only the plastics behind the glass.

last monday i got a stone flicked up and broke the glass, (as per pic).

so now i need to use 2 good halves to make 1 good headlight.

p.s. lakeside does bite.

[rodhog]

You can also use a heat gun.

I've done heaps with heat gun and even just some industrial size heaters but even just leaving it above some other items heating up.

If you use an oven two things I recommend
if Gas - area clsoe to heat source use foil to allow indirect air to provide the heat.

if electric - depending on oven and heat source again use foil or soemthing ot stop direct heat.

This will reduce risk of warping - you need about 80 degress C to start to break it down. 120 is about ideal.

also don't pre heat-. Put them in cold let it all heat up togeather.

Plastic does not deform as quickly if it's heated slowly. Most plastic's are formed using lotso f compression heat. Most are heated to 150 degress - but the compression heat that is used to start forming plastic material.

Some plastics melt or deform at as low as 80-100degress C.

Most car plastic has been injected some blown but most min would be 160degress C.

Others up to 250-320. but for heat resistant types or Firbe reinforced.


Also those with glass lenses - don't put them in water- cool naturally - same for the plastics if you don't want them britle-
They would of been cooled when formed originally but at an average of maybe 10-15 seconds in a mould it went from 200-degress to about 50 then would of air cooled and taken about 1 hour to settle into it's close to spec size. might of changed up to 0.3mm

[project.r.racing]

i just did this last weekend in a non fan forced oven. 110 degrees C for 5 mins was enough to warm the resin and to spilt the glass from the plastic.

only removed the back covers and globes. the wiring harness was left in with no damage.

very easy to do. surprising really.

gonna do the other one next weekend, cos it is very dirty inside the glass.