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Old 06-01-2011, 04:40 PM   #1
wheeler33
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323 sp20 sound system

Hey guys, went to the car audio place today and was doing some price checking on some of the stuff, just wanted to double check the front speakers, what size are they? 5x7"? and rears 6"?

cheers
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:45 PM   #2
marcs_sp20
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Yes to both You can go 6.5" in the front, just need to make up some spacers..

What are you looking at getting?
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:38 PM   #3
wheeler33
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Cool cheers marc yeah was looking at getting the following let me know what you think. And budget wise its already peaking so I cant really opt' for better of much.

kenwood KAC-8105D Performance Series Class D Mono Power Amplifier
Item No: KAC8105D

Pioneer GM-6400F 4 Channel Car Amplifier
Item No: GM6400F

Kicker KS600 6inch KS Speakers
Item No: KS600

Kicker DS680.2 5x7inch DS Component Speakers
Item No: DS6802

Kicker VCVR124 12inch Enclosure with Subwoofer
Item No: VCVR124
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:27 PM   #4
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I can say that is a awesome sub and in a ported enclosure the bass is ridiculous
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:52 PM   #5
wheeler33
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Very excited :] going to be a very good weekend!
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:56 PM   #6
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My car is going to shake, is there anything i can do to stop rattling and stuff??
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:23 PM   #7
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The door trims always rattle, I've never found I can completely alleviate that, so I've got my fronts hi-passed at about 80 anyway.

The number plate will rattle from the sub If you have nothing else in the hatch you get a wicked acoustic boost from the hatch chamber. I have a JL sub that I am seriously under powering (barely kicking over) and the boost from the hatch results in far more bass than I realistically need.

Really it's best to set up the doors properly and treat them with sound deadening material but that will eat into your budget. You could delete the rear speakers entirely and go with a 2-channel amp which would leave some for enough dynamat to do the doors. (Rear speakers are only for your freeloading passengers, anyway!)

edit: I'd drop the rear speakers, go with the cheaper and more powerful Pioneer GM-5400T for the fronts, and the Pioneer GM-D7500M for the sub. Gives you more overall system power and should end up costing the same. You'll outgrow those Kicker fronts quick though, IMHO. But you can always put in some nice Bostons or JLs down the track if you feel they're not up to scratch.

edit2: you can leave in the stock rears and continue to run them from the head unit if you really need rear fill.

Last edited by phunkdust; 06-01-2011 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:08 PM   #8
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You dont need much Juice to get the car rattling, im running a 4x60wrms Pioneer GM-6100F 4Ch amp bridged, powering a 125w rms Kicker sub, and it shakes something rotten!!

The one thing I can recommend is, are JL Audio 5x7" 125w 2 way speakers, great quality, punchy (even though I have mine hi-passed at 125) and quite a few members on here have heard them, hell mine have been in the SP for 4.5 years now!!

Dyanmat would be the best bet for sound deadening & very expensive, although someone on here thinks you can get the foil backed rubber from Clark Rubber, so its worth checking out if on a budget.. Also you may want to do this little how-to as well

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...-from-rattling!
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:23 PM   #9
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Yeah the JLs are great, but they are a bit more expensive. I've just picked up a set of the C5 components, hope to have them in soon. Still have the Alpine 4x100w amp, planning to go to the new JL amp the HD900 (bridged for 2x150W fronts and 1x500W for sub)
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:53 PM   #10
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I would suggest the JL Audio setup over the Kickers/Pioneer setup.
I have the ZR 6.5" Splits in the front and the VR 6.5" splits in the rear doors with a 12" JL sub in JL Audio box in the boot.
I have a 4x50W JL Audio amp for the speakers with a 120W JL audio mono block for the sub, according to the "experts" my stereo is massively underpowered and its way too loud already.
I have had some of my stereo for at least 6 years.
The bass my car produces is silly. On 13 out of 50 it makes the carport roof vibrate.

Last time I took my car to Mazda to get serviced I got told that my car had the most impressive stereo they had ever heard.
MMMMM wonder how loud they cranked it..
I remember I had left The Prodigy in it.
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:26 PM   #11
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Can you get all that for $1000 though?
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:42 PM   #12
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Hey any idea one what I'll need for the extra's;

4 Gauge wiring kit (dual amps)
Distribution block
RCA's
*and to check if the wiring for the speakers comes in the box

anything else?? getting a mate to do it and want to have everything set up and ready for him.
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:45 PM   #13
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il give you a little hint for licence plate rattle. look for the little self adhesive rubber feet you would use on glass tables that dont have metal standoff fixture
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Can you get all that for $1000 though?
haha doubt it
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:18 PM   #15
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well i picked up a alpine HU
15 rockford fosgate sub
pair 6" 3 waycompo splts
pair 6" 2 way
a 2 ch amp
1 4 chanel amp for about 1500 from memory
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghoru View Post
well i picked up a alpine HU
15 rockford fosgate sub
pair 6" 3 waycompo splts
pair 6" 2 way
a 2 ch amp
1 4 chanel amp for about 1500 from memory
sorry to hijack the thread, but is this a good brand?? my mate picked up a new set of 6x9 of rockford fosgate prime speakers at Kmart and they scanned at $50. So i told him to get then becaseu im pretty sure a few were saying they are actully an alrright brand??

OT: yer you deffnitly dont need much to make a sound system go BOOM BOOM. i used to have fusions 6.5" splits and alpine 6.5" speakers with a JVC sub run off a alpine amp. I took it out because i just didnt like all the ratteling.

Do Clakr rubber have sound proofing?? that stuffs to expensive to buy from audio shops.
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:55 PM   #17
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I'm surprised you guys get rattles, there's only one rattle in my car and that's the spoiler brake light (which will be fixed soon). I don't think dynamat is neccasary unless you get panel rattles as all the little rattles can be tracked down and fixed one at a time but doesn't seem to be a problem for my car...
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:17 PM   #18
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one thing to point out dan, hatch vs sedan
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:23 PM   #19
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haha doubt it
Lol NO,
The front splits cost me $1100 and the rears were $450.
The sub was $500 and the amps were around $900 for the pair.

Jaycar has good cheap soundproofing material.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:37 PM   #20
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one thing to point out dan, hatch vs sedan
Haha yeah read a few complaints about those hatches rattling :P although my doors should be the same, I can feel the bass through them without rattles
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