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Old 05-06-2014, 05:25 PM   #141
Clean_Cookie
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Looking good.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:51 PM   #142
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+1 Want those ITBs
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Old 20-06-2014, 04:41 AM   #143
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My ever faithful assistant playing rainmaker as I test the 2 speed windshield wiper circuits. Pocket money earnt... she is excited to be attending the drag races this weekend.

Last edited by ghetto3; 20-06-2014 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 22-06-2014, 06:03 PM   #144
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you realise all those wires under the dashboard not loomed is a fire hazard and will cause all sorts of potential issues, right?

automotive electrics is very different from building electrics..... all wires must be sufficiently secured and protected, because you're dealing with an environment that always has vibrations and movement that will cause the wires to rub against things
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Old 22-06-2014, 09:32 PM   #145
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Unfinished section


Finished section

Been playing with this bit too:



Lots to do yet..

Last edited by ghetto3; 22-06-2014 at 10:22 PM. Reason: stupid freakin phone
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Old 26-06-2014, 04:12 PM   #146
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Here is how I've got my sandwich plate setup. It has two 1/8th auxiliary ports for oil temp and pressure gauges, the latter to be remote mounted on the firewall with an extra port for the pressure warning light.
Can anyone see any issues with this configuration?



This is the bracket I made out of angle alloy and had welded and braced up to support the bonnet latch as I had to alter the original one to squeeze the oil cooler in there.

A shot of it peaking through. Although it blocks the radiator a bit, the air con blocked a whole heap more. I was careful to put as much gap as possible between the two cores to help with heat dissipation.
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Old 27-06-2014, 03:44 PM   #147
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Some shots of the plumbing.
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Old 27-06-2014, 10:02 PM   #148
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why aren't you relocating the oil filter also?
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Old 27-06-2014, 10:10 PM   #149
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I considered it, there is a decent spot on the passenger side in front of gearbox where the filter.could be mounted and Aeroflow make a decent kit that'd suit too. I'd figured the filter was easy enough to get to with the throttle bodies at the time and now im stuck with that decision unless I blow even more cash on fittings!
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Old 28-06-2014, 11:56 AM   #150
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Having that spacer would also make it less likely to run down the block. The mx5 location is horrible in comparison. Impossible to remove without a huge mess.
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Old 29-06-2014, 12:41 AM   #151
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So I'm up to re-installing my rusty old hurricane(?) Headers and am wondering what to do about hiding the ugliness. I've so far researched header wrap (no way), hi temp paint, hi temp coatings and even tuned length header design 4/1, 4/2/1, exhaust design etc. I am at a standstill at how to proceed with regard to my build and budget.
A tuned length design would need to suit the engine mods and rpm band, both of which may change and nothing decent is available off shelf so im thinking hi temp coat or just run the rusty ones and replace with same when the time comes.

What do you think?
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Old 29-06-2014, 03:37 AM   #152
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Depends how hard you go with the cam shaft. IF you go crazy N/A then it matters lot.

My experience with mostly N/A V8's - headers or variations - especially due to steering box's and frames on small cars' Don't always mean a power loss or restriction.

Took a 308 block worked ran NOS and dumped it into a LJ- but did home -backyard header adjustments off the units desgined for the HZ it was out. Same dyno - and it didn't make any difference in fact. We think because shorter exhaust it's why it picked up 5Kw's. We mangled the original Pacemakers.

What I've seen is where applicable more differences with intake systems.
Hi rise manifolds - low type - spacer plates and they seem to especially carby effect the way they come on.
With modern EFI - it seems to be more common on the older cars or where Variable intake systems have issues but mostly FI.

So I think its up to you.

but as for Coatings and heat wrap. I've done both.

For me it's a NO BRAINER NOW.

Be it Compettion coatings or Hi-tech coatings I used both.

I would rather any of them. on GT42 whole housing rear top gray type ceramic - and I was stupid enough to lean on it after a run at WSID- I didn't get more then sunburn not even forgot about it after 10mins.

I've used exhaust manifold black ceramic on stock - aftermarket - massive differences in under bonnet temps.

I currently only because I had them off at time did the polished/chrome variant of the Ultra hi ceramic and only used it on heat shields with un-treaded underneath housing manifold. it won't take over like 300 but perfect. And you can notice it.

Where I am lost is on the intercooler pipes. As I got funny feeling the Insulated type seems to work better but. Have never ever Data logged any type of evidence and it's only seat of pants. but heat soak wise a return pipe cooler to TB - Insulated with heat wrap just seems to feel punchy compared with just coated.
IMO maybe both.

But yeah Heat wrap IMO it's old way now. Rather coat it. Plus very very durable finish's now
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:33 PM   #153
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Some progress photos, a heap of work but not that much to see...


my terminal left, mazda original right.


A test of the high beam circuit, I ditched the floor mounted dimmer and have used a toggle that will be mounted on dash near hazard button original location.



An out of focus overall shot.
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Old 13-07-2014, 09:04 AM   #154
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A couple shots of the fuel pressure gauge and electric sender mounted in the regulator.




A pic of the start button and wiper controls. I pulled off the soft dash covering to do it again as the first attempt lifted a bit I guess because of the years of interior cleaner soaked into the dash hadn't been removed completely before I glued the fabric down..
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Old 14-08-2014, 01:10 AM   #155
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Excuse the dodge pics:





A scary pic of the main fuse panel. There are three fuse blocks seperated into main body, engine, and accessory fuse panels, the latter two controlled by ignition triggered relays, one high amp for coils, injectors and trigger sensors, the other for low amp gauge circuits etc.
Ive started on engine/adaptronic wiring again and have been playing with the coil plugs. Got the oil pressure sensor mounted on the firewall and a myriad of other jobs sorted.
Just as I was about to start filling it all with fluids and oils I figured now would be a good time to get some supertech springs in there, headstuds and a decent harmonic damper/ alternator pulley combo to let this rig hit 8500rpms in relative confidence.
The middle shot gives an idea of the clearance issues when installing the jenvey kit. The brake booster comes close to the sausage filter when installed and the clutch master to reservoir line gets in the way, but nothing too dramatic needs doing to fix these minor issues.More goodies on the way.

Last edited by ghetto3; 14-08-2014 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 14-08-2014, 02:29 AM   #156
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Sadly the motor wont go to 8.5k man as the bottom end will let go as the piston speed will be massive..

Looks like this thing is about star table.. Is just start it as it in now and injoy it man
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Old 14-08-2014, 02:40 AM   #157
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A few wires, an alternator and some welch plugs for the old injector holes is all that is needed to fire it up. Im getting nervy and procrastinating with the whole adaptronic setup and tune in.
Even I would admit im out of my depth there.
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Old 15-08-2014, 10:10 AM   #158
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Stock rod length etc. 7.6-7.7k rpm is the max I'd be comfortable going too.

Remember the higher you rev the more the rods are going to stretch
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Old 15-08-2014, 12:03 PM   #159
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Its cookies fault. He pointed and asked why im not running bigger spec springs to match the subs and it got me thinking, then ordering and spending....so yeah purely his fault.
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Old 16-08-2014, 09:00 AM   #160
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@Kris, the bp miata boys rev 8k all day. Some up to 9k. Purely better rods?
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