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Old 20-11-2007, 10:21 PM   #1
FEM
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Respraying and Preparing

hey kids

im looking at getting a new lick of paint for my BG. what i will be doing in respraying is everything but the roof. I will be sanding back with a wet and dry untill the paint wears back. then i will be bogging the dings up and letting to dry only to sand that back till smooth. then i will be spraying a primer over that and then painting back to the standard red (or maybe the red on the new mazda 3's!!)

what do you think of the proccess? have i left anything out?

few questions:

1. what wet and dry sandpaper should i use to take the paint back and to sand ready for priming?

2. how should i let the paint cure and what is required after the paint has dried?

I am wanting to get a nice finish, not a perfect show room finish. If you have any recommendations to my list and process, please voice it!

thanks
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Old 20-11-2007, 10:36 PM   #2
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congrats on wantin to do it yourself...but if really dont no what to do id suggest to take it to a panel beater as theyd have it done a lot quicker as welll...
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Old 20-11-2007, 10:57 PM   #3
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its not hard to do, but it will take a long time. bourbs not everyone has 2k lying around for prep and painting.

when we fixed my car we used 240 grit sandpaper i think. it doesn't take long between coats to spray, i think 20-30 min. curing takes 24 hours to make sure its stuck. 3 weeks before you want to spill petrol on it...

you'll need to cut and polish after spraying, thats where the nice shiny finish comes from.

you don't have to sand it back all the way to bare metal, just to the point where there isn't any chips etc. get a filler primer to help clean up any little imperfections and give it a sand and bog after the first full coat of primer to remove all the marks that show up
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Old 20-11-2007, 11:08 PM   #4
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sounds good dave
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Old 21-11-2007, 11:26 AM   #5
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what about cleae coats to make it last longer...
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Old 21-11-2007, 11:56 AM   #6
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if the paint lasts 5 or more years then im happy
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Old 21-11-2007, 12:08 PM   #7
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i say clear coat...gives a bit more shine and wont go as dull over the years...
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Old 21-11-2007, 05:02 PM   #8
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When you are sanding for primer make sure you start with something like 400grit, then work you way up to say a 800 or 1200grit. If you use a coarse sandpaper then all you are going to get is scratches come out in the primer which will show in the base coat.

Then when you spray the primer on, do the same thing but just make sure you dont use too fine a sandpaper. You want the base coat to bond itself with the primer!

Take your time doing everything, prep isnt too hard if you just be patient. Brush up on your bogging (check youtube...they have videos on there) and make sure if you take the paint off the car in places (back to metal) you will need to use an etch primer, not just your ordinary primer.
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Old 21-11-2007, 06:45 PM   #9
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ahhh very interesting! thanks dru
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Old 22-11-2007, 01:50 AM   #10
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heh i was thinking 240 sounded a little coarse. the biggest pain for you will be getting the little dints on the corners of panels out, its a real b***h to continue the panel lines with just bog, try to punch them out and then bog them.

yeah a clear coat is the way to go, i haven't done one but i'd assume it'd be similar to normal, except you have to make sure you have absolutely no dust etc in the air, as that would fark up the coat. where's pete when you need him? his paint job on the pug was pretty impressive when i saw it
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

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'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 22-11-2007, 02:57 AM   #11
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yeah, maybe a 400 grit wet and dry might be the go.

my nose piece thing is like a face exfoliator.. so many stone chippies on it, might have to go a bit harsher on there.

well, i will be looking into some new paint in the next few days, i really really like that new 3 paint - looks awesome.

does anyone know where the codes are for the paint for mazda and what not?
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Old 22-11-2007, 02:59 AM   #12
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might end up getting the roof done professionally with the same color that i pick in the end, just thinking about it.... i will have a two tone effect. (not good). im off to bed, gotta be a slacks ck at 12 ahhhh... night all
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Old 31-12-2007, 06:42 PM   #13
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how would you paint the bumpers with out it peeling off?
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Old 31-12-2007, 06:48 PM   #14
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what? it shouldn't peel, just sand it back and use a plastic/abs primer then spray it. it worked for mine and the plastic mud guards.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

'97 1.8L Hardtop
'93 3.0L TT 3000GT
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:44 AM   #15
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thats it..rub it back well...if too far, plastic primer it first...then paint primer...then paint it...
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:29 PM   #16
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Firstly:
1. Compressor with moisture filter and pressure regulator
2. Industrial Air Brush with different nozzles (Talk to any paint supplier)
3. Are you using Acrylic enamel or 2pac?
4. Do you know about mixing ratio's with paint and thinners?
5. What environment are you painting the car? and what result do you want?
Personally, when i paint mine soon!!!
Im doin it in a well ventilated shed with a dust extractor, taking off the front bumper, rear bumper and bonnet. Sanding all the bumpers back to bare plastic and plastic primer, sanding back everything with a hard grade sand papaer and going thinner as i go, applying about 4 coats of primer to make it nice and even, letting it set for a day, spraying the first coat of paint and letting it set for a day, and again, and again, and again, finally clear coat and wait again, then buff 2 weeks later....Im doing mine Liquid Silver (32S)
Painting a car isnt hard its just long and patient, if you rush the end result and the money you put into it will be wasted, just make sure you tape everything up well, sand it back and fill it all in very well and apply the primer carefully....you might even want to strip the outside of the car ( taillights etc) so the job will be clean with thorough lines...
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:54 AM   #17
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and remember alot of water when sanding!
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