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Old 04-11-2007, 07:18 PM   #1
Lawsy
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My car has stopped selecting 2nd, 4th and reverse.... Under no stress =/

Hey guys,

Something really annoying has just happened.

Very suddenly, without a noise, jerk or shudder, I have gone to downshift (at about 40) into 2nd gear and it felt like the shifter was connected to a solid block of concrete. This was after a nice run down the m7 at about 120 (a few brief moments at slightly above that, some not so brief and some not slightly above that too... But no hard shifts or corners, just cruising speeds).

What has my little BG 1.8sohc broken?

Ok what I know.

Oil; still there,
Linkages; still 'linking',
1st, 3rd and 5th; feel 100% like normal.

Has my selector just quietly stuffed itself? And how much is it going to cost to repair/replace....

Or is someone willing to intrest free loan me 5 grand so I can buy this turbo motor and be done with it....?

I'm all ears!

Last edited by Lawsy; 04-11-2007 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:39 PM   #2
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i'd be thinking that 2nd and 4th would use the same selector so get under the car and check that the selector hasn't jammed somehow. get someone to shift whilst you take a look at whats moving or not moving.
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:54 PM   #3
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Time to replace you gearbox bushes and/or some of your engine mounts
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Old 05-11-2007, 12:32 AM   #4
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havingdone box's many times. Auto and manual- Let me say first auto's go quicker but easier to fix. - overall

but as for mazda box's LOL -

the fact you can get the top half 1st and 3rd says the forks are okay.
that eliminates most things.

you say 2nd and 4th are missing.

If you have no noise. - It eliminates - things like cracked shattered syncro's - always bad kills complete box - I did it to $2500 rebuilt one. LOL new syncros 3 pieces - 100km's home travel into 1000's and every other part useless

but back on your box.

The only realy way to tell is Drop the oil.
Drop the oil and you can tell right away what will be going on. In most cases.
lots of fine gold in the bse - syncro's dead - just fine mist of it and no large bits well normal wear
muddy black bits - metal on metal.

If you feel the magnet in the base for chuncks - answer.

What would I expect.

simple to me don't take offence but I've hear and answered many similar questions in my time,
- you noted turbo motor - or wanting, etc , you sound young.

Spyders in diff - teeth come off fall- into oil- float around magnet does not pick up - - into selector area - won't allow lower end of H to be selected- as the Reverse takes tow things ot enguage it's not as effected.

quickest soloution - get another box.

cheapest if it works - oil flush and refill. I've one worse in the 2nd hand car yard days. - deisel from the pump into the filler or speedo drive - if accesss - and spray it through . Gives a good clean in and out and removes all Banana's and and other bits that need outing. even better if someone selects whiles doing it.

oh but if you selling the car - add banana mash during the refill. ( note: I only means this if you trade in old trick used back well long before I gave up 2nd hand car yards)

oh and for your G-series and well 90% of mazda box's from the 80's onward

all the 5 speeds are 4 speeds with a 5th gear add on. But of course the FWD's are all true 5 speeds - sort of,

but 1st -2nd - same fork and selector - usually same or similar syncro
3rd and 4th - same fork and selector - in most - same syncro
5th on it's own same syncro as reverse -
but Note reverse does not use syncro to help the change but to actually select reverse and transfer the power.
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Old 08-11-2007, 10:37 PM   #5
Lawsy
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New (well nearly 100 thou less km's) box and and spankin new clutch is in....

Looks like I wont be doing the turbo conversion as the hip pocket is hurting a little bit after that one...

Is it even worth doing a nice mild mid range cam? Might as well if I can do it cheap... Maybe a slightly longer duration cam with the same lift and a bit of overlap wouldn't hurt... hmmmm
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:21 AM   #6
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any cam mod on EFI car needs some sort of adjustable or pre programmed ECU change.

Cheap on a Holden or Ford - done heaps good rewards but with out the ECu - absoloutly usless on a small capacity engine. You losoe so much with out a retune it's waste.

Do some saveing first a good 12 months - yeah it's olong but you may find things have change from - income to life situation and your plans may go from small to bigger to totally different.

Just my advice.
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:18 PM   #7
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And not that what you say isn't good advice...

But, I'm thinking of a very mild, longer duration cam only.. All that will do is increase mid range torque, the computer will compensate for what will appear to be a slightly leaner mixture, and everything else will be nonethewiser...

When you increase lift and have a lot of overlap is when you have the biggest problems, as the air velocity has a huge inrease on air mixtures for differing RPM ranges...

I'll simply be looking at getting the cam built up on the leading part of the intake lobe, and the trailing part of the exhaust lobe, then have that grinded for only a few degree's of increased duration....

The computer won't have to do much at all.... As having the valve open slightly earlier on the intake allows for only a little bit more air and fuel to enter the chamber, and having the exhaust valve open slightly longer simply lets more of the spent gases out...

Which will make good use of my extractors... Infact, the overlap doesn't change this way.... And overlap is probably the biggest ECU problem as overlap has vastly different effects on high and low RPM performance...

I probably won't do anything at all, its just that if I dont drop in a new turbo motor, then I'll have to have the head reconditioned anyway... Might as well do something with the cam while its out =/

Last edited by Lawsy; 09-11-2007 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawsy View Post
And not that what you say isn't good advice...


You mean to say you understood what he said ?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?

damn hog, i can't make heads or tales when you speak.
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Old 10-11-2007, 03:37 AM   #9
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You mean to say you understood what he said ?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?

damn hog, i can't make heads or tales when you speak.

It's because I don't do much typeing or Writing or anything along those lines
I'm no internet guru or crap I know it as in past tense - Did Websdte desgin back in my Tafe/Collage days
I'm the guy who does the stuff. You know weld it - fit it make it machine it.

BUt not for Cars' - Not enough money I work on things that might only be size of say a turbocharger - worth more money then some people's houses.

As for the Cam Idea. Well, I work with a fe workshops in sydney.
I would not take your money anyway I'd send you to soemone else.
But I guess it's just me.
I hear the same idea's same this and that, Theory's etc that this will work etc.

I put it like this. You blew the box and have limited Funds. Don't waste your time or limited money one doing such work. You will be disapointed when a New SP23 blows your doors away and he's running a auto box as well.

I say it how I see it. Because everytime I visit well know tuning shops around sydney - Well known enough to have young males turn up in various cars Talk or ask about wild ideas. You tell them the cost any the Jaws drop.
Nothing is for free.
Ask anyone who has Done real modifications to there car, on this board. Ask them to work out the full cost.

Now go look at all the Hack half done cars. I still have alot to do with some 2nd hand car yards. Usually ones who want to off load car's they can not sell. I buy them Repair them EG return to stock or make them run and sell them.
The amount of cars with modifications that makes cars go backwards - is amazing. Some are good others are all wrong.

like a 18psi on 200Sx or WRx with maybe and exhuast. Over fuel on the rear bar and add in Hot air intakes Or BOV's. Car's run like crap, I even get people telling me the former owner got owned by civic in one case. 2 weeks later, with the right corrections. Most of the time they run alot stronger.

As I note for me it's about money. I don't expect people to take my advice as after all most of the time I charge for it.
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Old 30-12-2007, 12:12 AM   #10
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I don't understand most of this technical talk.

What I'd do is take of in 1st, rev hard, pop it into 3rd, wait for a bit hop into 5th.

See no problem.

If you need to do a reverse put your car into neutral. get out. push the baby back and your off.

Easy as 1,2,3.

Have fun.
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Old 30-12-2007, 01:27 PM   #11
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Id replace the box.

get the air intake extractors and exhaust done and tune it. After that i would stop working on the engine. With limited cc's you will get limited gains without going the turbo option, but instead put your $$ into suspension components and tires.
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Old 30-12-2007, 03:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cinncinatus View Post
You mean to say you understood what he said ?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?

damn hog, i can't make heads or tales when you speak.
I have always thought the same thing but im just to nice to say anything...

Did you ever end up pulling the old box apart to see what had happened? If you had done this you might have gotten an insight into what happened and why? just a thought!

I say save the money and get a BP or a BPT, a regrinded cam isnt cheap (unless you know something or someone i dont) and in a SOHC the difference would be a waste...
As for the auto's are easier to fix comment, thats debatable....like i said dont waste you money mate, a BPT 1/2 cut is only $1800 without the box, im an apprentice and i know that this isnt easy money to get ahold of but im savin my pennies and rebuild, get a good enough 1.2 cut and throw it straight in, no need for a rebuild, especially if it has low k's....
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Old 30-12-2007, 08:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLineResident View Post
get the air intake extractors and exhaust done and tune it. After that i would stop working on the engine. With limited cc's you will get limited gains without going the turbo option, but instead put your $$ into suspension components and tires.
dude what does this post have to do with this topic...pm me your story so it doesnt clutter up this topic...




on a side dont just jump into replacing the gearbox just yet...its a SOHC engine...gearbox will be cheap...but you may as well take it to a gearbox shop to get them to check what the issues are...unless if you know anythin about the gearboxs them selves...
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Old 30-12-2007, 09:00 PM   #14
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rebuilt box = $1500
used box = $700

buying used box will also mean less time off the road

simple?
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Old 30-12-2007, 09:19 PM   #15
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swap the box out.

No need to pull it apart.

80% of the time it's the same issue.

All FWD box'es have the same achillies heel.

Diff in the Box.

with RWD when diff has problems it leaves it's dystruction in the rear or unless it locks up and turns your shaft into your floor pan into well. I've been there and let me say - TAILSHAFT LOOP saved my LIFE.

I think most will want to know this
Problem is FWD diff's are almost always running at different speeds, it's why even in a AWd , not many run a LSd in the front.

the CV's when turning also multipy the restrictive force.

This loads the intenral gears up. Fine if your not dropping clutches, it's also fine if you don't lock your wheels and give it.
This goes for auto's as well.

Your diff is inclosed in your box. So when the spiders in the diff - these are your small gears inside give they usually chip off or Chipp of in large amounts. In RWD it's alot more notice able. because it's mounted to the car and most older cars no sound deadening . Next thing it gets into the crown gear and pinion and wel if your lucky it just mildly damages it. It does not lock it up on Pass down WSID.

but in FWD your magent in the bottom of the bo should hold it. But it does not always do this. if it's an auto you want it too. No ifs not buts- because if it goes in to te converter or even the valve body. let me just say $20,000 on auto boxes at oh say average of $3500 rebuilds???

effectivly I'd guess you have not changed the oil very frequiently in the MTx. but it's normal - only under high stress - like a truck or a Race car does one need to do it often. So to clear the junk out. Be it even minor fillings.

But yep over time some bit has ended up in a position that's stopping the box from selecting.

Just swap it out with one a place can warrenty for 1 month or more. basicly one they test before hand to be selecting.

drive more easily on the box.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:29 PM   #16
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hmmm

my gearbox had the same issue bro i went to a mazda wreckers and scouted out a gearbox that looked heeps clean and it looks like its recently been rebuilt i can tell that cuz of the seals around the bastard and i know the suspect at the wreckers knew it too thats y he wanted 600 for it but i kept pushing and got it for 400.... shes in now and runs like a beauty ...shop around bro u may be able to pick up a cheap one and as was said b4 an auto is easy as hell to replace ureself in know because i never did it b4 n i did it 1st go no problem...just make sure u ask as much about a gearbox as u can n try reading the log books n check the seals on the box because u dont want to get a box worse than the one uve already got haha :P
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