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Old 18-06-2010, 01:42 PM   #1
marcs_sp20
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The Photography thread

Hey guys,

Since most peps actually use camera's of there cars and whatnot, so thought best to make up a thread dedicated to taking photos, hints, tips etc...

Anyways I have a couple questions:

How do I find out from a photo I have taken, the properties I have used? is it possible?

for example:



Also, what settings should I use to get a clear night time photo, as using auto is just crap All my night pics come out grainy, abeit being in crap lighting....

Example:



Cheers
Marc
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Old 18-06-2010, 01:52 PM   #2
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YAY about time this came up

hmm with night time photo's its hard to do.. as very new to this game and have only really been playing with my camera 4 a good year now, i've found that it has to be a good mix of iso and appeture...

u don't want to much light in, but u also don't want a small iso as it gets very hmmmm how can u put it... smudgey... u know the oppersite to sharp...

i've got heaps of photos on FB where i practice night sports photos at the wednesday night drifts here in brisbane. its good 4 practice but i have the camera set up the best now and i don't really need to change it.....

now 4 still night time shots.. u wand a good lighting. as i have found in some cases that good lighting make the photo not a goot flash.....

in the photo below its with no flash what so eva...... and on a tripod.

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Old 18-06-2010, 01:54 PM   #3
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For low lighting you need to increase your exposure time. Long exposure times make for blurry images if you don't have a steady hand.

As for the image you posted (the first) it was **** with a 1 second exposure, 3.5 fstop at iso 200. According to windows, im not on the mac atm so don't have access to mah photo tools.

This is kind of a lot of information but my original edit got lost when Firefox crashed and cant be ****ed typing it all up again so:
http://forums.atomicmpc.com.au/index.php?showtopic=72

EDIT: Marc the problem you have with your 2nd picture is mainly the amount of light behind the object IMO.
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Old 18-06-2010, 07:18 PM   #4
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as Kris said, exposure time = good night pics. too much high iso will make you images noisy.
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Old 19-06-2010, 07:38 AM   #5
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Marc to find the properties on a pic right click and choose properties then click on the details tab.
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Old 19-06-2010, 09:40 PM   #6
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Marc to find the properties on a pic right click and choose properties then click on the details tab.
Doesnt always work.
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Old 23-06-2010, 05:03 PM   #7
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Hi Guys just thought I would put my 2 bobs worth in here,
I have been a Pro Photographer for the last 27 years and will check this forum often and hope to answer as many questions or help to fix as many problems as I can.
I might start by explaining what the main camera controls are, for those that already know please bear with me.
All photos are a combination of the three controls ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed to get the CORRECT EXPOSURE.
ISO stands for international standards organisation and it indicates the (speed)/sensitivity of the (film-- sorry old terminology) digital sensor CCD and each time you double the number the camera can take the same photo in half as much light problem here is if you start going over about 400 iso you start to introduce electronic noise to the sensor its sort of like static on a radio also the higher the iso the more grainy the pictures look. (just like it used to in the good old days of Film)
Apperture is the size diameter of the hole in the lens that lets the light through onto the sensor. Here the smaller the number the bigger the hole.
Apperture is used to control the depth of field(how much of the photo is in focus)
The smaller the number the smaller the depth of field(focus) . Its how you get the soft out of focus fussy backgrounds but the subject is sharp. Using a larger number eg f22 is how you get everything in the photo from foreground to background sharp. the depth of field is 1/3rd in front of the point of focus and 2/3rds behind the point of focus
Shutter speed is the amount of time that the shutter is open during the exposure and you use this control to stop movement of the subject eg if the car is moving you need to use the faster shutter speeds to get a sharp car or it will look blurey.
if you are using a shutter speed slower than 1/60th of a second you really should use a tripod night or day this stops the camera from moving. also if you are using telephoto lenses you really cant hold it steady enough at a shutterspeed less than the focal length of the lens. eg 300mm lens 1/300th of a second shutter speed
So my tip for night time photography would be this USE A TRIPOD, set the ISO to highest setting before your camera starts to introduce the grainey noise effect about ISO 400, decide how much of the photo you want to be sharp and set the appropriate apperture f number (small number=small area of focus, large number=large area of focus)
NOW because you are using a tripod the camera isnt going to move and neither is the parked car so you can use a shutter speed that is as long as you need to get the correct exposure could be a couple of seconds, can even be a couple of minutes if that is what is needed....
Marc the problem with the dark car against the light background is the light sensor is being tricked and averaging out the total amount of light in the photo
try zooming in to the photo so the car fills the view through the eyepiece or on the LCD press the shutter down halfway and keep it half pressed(this is when it takes the light reading) then zoom out to get the picture you want then press shuutter the rest of the way to take the photo.
Look the best thing we have now is DIGITAL unlimited amount of pictures so experiment it costs you nothing but time. When I was learning we had to pay for every single photo good or bad sharp or blurry under or overexposed and we had to wait to see results.
Sorry for the long post but I hope it helps.
FLY
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Old 23-06-2010, 06:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown View Post
Hi Guys just thought I would put my 2 bobs worth in here,
I have been a Pro Photographer for the last 27 years and will check this forum often and hope to answer as many questions or help to fix as many problems as I can.
I might start by explaining what the main camera controls are, for those that already know please bear with me.
All photos are a combination of the three controls ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed to get the CORRECT EXPOSURE.
ISO stands for international standards organisation and it indicates the (speed)/sensitivity of the (film-- sorry old terminology) digital sensor CCD and each time you double the number the camera can take the same photo in half as much light problem here is if you start going over about 400 iso you start to introduce electronic noise to the sensor its sort of like static on a radio also the higher the iso the more grainy the pictures look. (just like it used to in the good old days of Film)
Apperture is the size diameter of the hole in the lens that lets the light through onto the sensor. Here the smaller the number the bigger the hole.
Apperture is used to control the depth of field(how much of the photo is in focus)
The smaller the number the smaller the depth of field(focus) . Its how you get the soft out of focus fussy backgrounds but the subject is sharp. Using a larger number eg f22 is how you get everything in the photo from foreground to background sharp. the depth of field is 1/3rd in front of the point of focus and 2/3rds behind the point of focus
Shutter speed is the amount of time that the shutter is open during the exposure and you use this control to stop movement of the subject eg if the car is moving you need to use the faster shutter speeds to get a sharp car or it will look blurey.
if you are using a shutter speed slower than 1/60th of a second you really should use a tripod night or day this stops the camera from moving. also if you are using telephoto lenses you really cant hold it steady enough at a shutterspeed less than the focal length of the lens. eg 300mm lens 1/300th of a second shutter speed
So my tip for night time photography would be this USE A TRIPOD, set the ISO to highest setting before your camera starts to introduce the grainey noise effect about ISO 400, decide how much of the photo you want to be sharp and set the appropriate apperture f number (small number=small area of focus, large number=large area of focus)
NOW because you are using a tripod the camera isnt going to move and neither is the parked car so you can use a shutter speed that is as long as you need to get the correct exposure could be a couple of seconds, can even be a couple of minutes if that is what is needed....
Marc the problem with the dark car against the light background is the light sensor is being tricked and averaging out the total amount of light in the photo
try zooming in to the photo so the car fills the view through the eyepiece or on the LCD press the shutter down halfway and keep it half pressed(this is when it takes the light reading) then zoom out to get the picture you want then press shuutter the rest of the way to take the photo.
Look the best thing we have now is DIGITAL unlimited amount of pictures so experiment it costs you nothing but time. When I was learning we had to pay for every single photo good or bad sharp or blurry under or overexposed and we had to wait to see results.
Sorry for the long post but I hope it helps.
FLY
thanks for this fly. iv had my camera for nearly 6 months now, and i learned how to use it in the 1st few hours by taking close to 100 photoes and seeing what each setting does. i forget now where the ISO setting are, i think its set to auto and i only play with aperture and shutter speed. i love my tripod and taking photos of the night sky or anything at night with low light and very long exposure (5" plus, few times used bulb setting to get a very exposed shot of just the night sky and even caught a plane moving in it) one thing that buggs me is the lenses.. there should really be a shutter that covers the mirror compartment as soon as the lens is released, not even removed just released. i got a massive dust flake on my CMOS sensor and i spent over 100 geting it cleaned (i did the cleaning my self, the 100 was for pure alcohole, sensor swabs etc..) i mean its not even hard to get a secondary shutter in there, same as the shutter for the sensor but just infront og the merror.
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Old 23-06-2010, 08:06 PM   #9
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I love long exposure shots taken at night. Took some awesome shots of the brisbane river with a D90 and was really impressed with the quality.
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Old 23-06-2010, 09:11 PM   #10
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Yeah rusty I love the night shots too. Ive got a few nice shots of my gtr taken at night just using the light from the front door of my house the headlights and the interior lights of the car during a lightning storm I was using long exposures hoping for a lightning strike during the long exposure It was really frustrating every time the shutter closed the lightning would strike big only got a few small strikes when the shutter was open. kept happening for about half an hour. oh well there is always photoshop
70NYD there used to be a setting for mirror lockup on most of my old film cameras now only found on high end pro cameras it is a pain that all of them dont have it. It used to be used when taking macro photos as the miror moving up actually shakes the camera and with little tiny subjects even tiny movement would show so you would use mirror lockup then wait 30 secs till all vibrations had stoped then use a cable release to fire the shutter.
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Old 21-07-2010, 11:43 PM   #11
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here is mine..

Location: Harvey Norman, Oxley
Camera: Panasonic TZ10
Setting: Aperature F4.5, ISO 100, Shutter speed 8 seconds.






im still learning so ive no idea what im doing. i would like to know how to use all of the functions on my camera and was wondering where some good abandoned buildings are.

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Old 02-08-2010, 12:00 AM   #12
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just wondering what gear everyone is using.

Location: Kangaroo Point, Brisbane
Camera: Panasonic TZ10
Setting: Aperature F4.5, ISO 100, Shutter speed 40 seconds.

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Old 02-08-2010, 11:58 AM   #13
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bah watercolor mark ruins that last photo almost IMO.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:11 PM   #14
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bah watercolor mark ruins that last photo almost IMO.
haha yeah. but i dont want people stealing it since its such an awesome shot
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:15 PM   #15
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here is a smaller version that does not have a watermark.. although not as awesome as the larger version

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Old 02-08-2010, 07:38 PM   #16
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Just move the watermark or make a watermark down the bottom Photo by Chewyryce or something mate, will make for a better photo without taking from the awesomness.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:40 PM   #17
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Just move the watermark or make a watermark down the bottom Photo by Chewyryce or something mate, will make for a better photo without taking from the awesomness.
yeah ive been meaning to do that for sometime now with some of my photos. probably do that sometime this week. will update it and maybe other photos that i have on my DA account
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Old 20-08-2010, 10:40 AM   #18
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i have signed up for an online photography course...first half of it is basically theory hahahaha but then it goes into the practical stuff
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Old 20-08-2010, 11:28 AM   #19
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got some new goodies come soon hee hee
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Old 20-08-2010, 11:55 AM   #20
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got some new goodies come soon hee hee
what ya order? i want an L series lens and some wide angle + fish eye lens
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