Oil burning up?

[Trev323]

Hi guys. I just changed the oil on my 95 BA and found that there was hardly any oil left infact there was barely 2litres left after 5000kms of driving. I haven't noticed any leakage. Any ideas?

[project.r.racing]

lots of black soot in exhaust pipe? if so, burning could be the answer. piston rings or valve stem seals it might be.

for now, change your oil to synthetic oil. and don't run car past 5,000 rpm. mineral oils then not to stick well and will slip past worth seals etc easier.

i was buring 1L of oil per 1000km using mineral 20w-50, (or 3L/3000km.) then change to sythetic 10W-30 and it still burnt out but only lost 1L in 5000km. werid cos 10W-30 is thinner but it worked. the difference between mineral and synthetic is amazing.

ryan

[Trev323]

I dont see any black soot...might need to double check. I had a quite look in the engine bay and didn't notice anything major. Right now i'm using a thick 30w60 oil to see how it helps with the lifters. So far so good.

[Rupewrecht]

how many kms has your engine done?

[Trev323]

Only 105000 ish. Previous owner didn't service it regularly and the lifters were tapping fairly bad when i picked it up. My mech put in penzoil 20w50 at 100,000kms which worked. I noticed some tapping after 5000kms so changed the oil again. I haven't noticed anything unusual tho. Seems to be a bit of oil here and there but nothing major. I'll need to go under to get a better look tho but i dont notice oil in my driveway or anything so don think theres a leak.

[deusexmacaroni]

Well, after being a lurker for a few months I finally have something to post about. This gives me an explanation of the black soot coating the exhaust tip of my 97 BA (1.8L, 208000Kms). Not to mention the soot that coats the rear panel and makes me clean the car once a week for little gain... It also explains why I have had to add oil after only 3000k's.

I am about due for a 5000k service, so I will raise that with my mechanic. I had already planned to switch to synthetic oil, but now I have a good excuse. I only bought the car a few months back (and I would love to know who the previous owner was so that I don't have to keep 'discovering' various undocumented modifications like the bypassed alarm circuit, or the concealed sub wiring). But I rant. Any ideas on costs for replacing piston seals etc? Any recommendations on a good mechanic in Canberra (my current one is good, but a fair drive from my place)?

Thanks.

[Astro Boy]

Originally Posted by deusexmacaroni

I had already planned to switch to synthetic oil

Why?

[Savvyfx]

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ventional_oil/

[Astro Boy]

Originally Posted by Savvyfx

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ventional_oil/

Sorry... It'll take more than that... A website which refers to everybody as 'racers', discusses nothing other than engines which get rebuilt after every 300km, talks about finding the last couple of hp from Ford’s prototype 392 small-block stroker crate engine on an engine dyno, Nascar's "trick" of chaning oil between qualifying and races, and the viscousity of oil at minus 62 degress....

Now which one of the above points had any relation wotsoever to an astina in australia???

[deusexmacaroni]

Oh no, I've opened up a can of worms! *ducks*

[bourbon]

Originally Posted by Astro Boy

Sorry... It'll take more than that... A website which refers to everybody as 'racers', discusses nothing other than engines which get rebuilt after every 300km, talks about finding the last couple of hp from Ford’s prototype 392 small-block stroker crate engine on an engine dyno, Nascar's "trick" of chaning oil between qualifying and races, and the viscousity of oil at minus 62 degress....

Now which one of the above points had any relation wotsoever to an astina in australia???

the engine rebuild after every 300km if your names nate and your in team grey or you havea red turbo car...

[Astro Boy]

Oh no, I've opened up a can of worms! *ducks*

Not really, this has been discussed MANY times before...

Its just people have too much faith in advertising, and so keep coming back...

*QUICK! Go buy magnatec! Its fully magnetic bro!!!*

For about the 67th time, choose from the following...

- Penrite HPR (Mineral),
- Caltex Havoline (Mineral or Synthetic, both exceptionally good quality given the price and avaliability),
- Motul (Mineral Series, 4100 i think from memory, what i run in the rally car, OR the 300V Synthetic Series if you're serious, don't bother with their run-of-the-mill synthetic, just stick to the mineral)

Read this...

[deusexmacaroni]

Fair enough, I will keep that in mind.

[Savvyfx]

I was hoping you'd be a little more informative with your 'why?' comment.
Besides, in the article I read there was more power w/ the synthetic and less contaminants. No matter how small. You asked why and there are valid reasons there.

I use Penrite synthetic. 5wX iirc
As far as I know, magnatec is full of ****.

[skitz]

even if it is full of **** your car would warm up faster lol
well at least it did in my last car it took about half the time!!!!

[Trev323]

What type of oil is HPR30?

[Rupewrecht]

Originally Posted by Trev323

What type of oil is HPR30?

As in brand or viscosity?

Penrite HPR30 (20W60)

[Astro Boy]

Originally Posted by Trev323

What type of oil is HPR30?

Mineral, or as the spin doctors put it, 'semi-synthetic'...

Penrite 5wX is mineral too, unless its their sin range...

[Trev323]

Thanks I just wanted to know if its mineral or synthetic. So far its definitely better than the 20w50 penzoil my mechanic put in. I hear no tapping from the lifters even on cold starts whereas the penzoil tapped for a few seconds. Haven't had time to check the oil level yet but i'll see if I can do it 2moro.

[Trev323]

After 3500kms of driving, I had to add in about 1litre of oil which was left over from my previous oil change for the oil to rise to the Low indicator on the dipstick. Exhaust is black as well but not so bad that the panels are covered in soot. Is this a major problem?