Questions about auto transmission fluid replacement for 323

[wixy]

I want to replace the automatic transmission fluid for my 01 Mazda 323 SP20.

It's got about 110,000 km's on it and I'd guess it's never been changed.

Is it ok to just drain and replace? Or should the system be flushed?

If the latter, how to perform a flush? Is there a filter to replace?

Appreciate any advice.

[TheMAN]

yes, just a drain and refill is fine
it uses type M-V (not to be confused with Ford Mercon V)... either buy the mazda fluid, or find compatible fluid such as Castrol, Valvoline Maxlife, etc

if you're switching to synthetic, then a complete fluid replacement (flush) is recommended so that everything in the box will be synthetic.... but flush ONLY when the gearbox has been properly maintained or not much overdue from replacement

since your fluid was never replaced before, it probably isn't a good idea for a flush

you will need about 3 litres of M-V ATF

[maztech]

Rough = drain and refill , only do half the fluid that way
Do it properly and flush it to replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler use about 8 liters of fluid - fill through filler tube while flushing old oil out of oil cooler .

[TheMAN]

if you flush a high mileage auto box that never had its fluid changed, it will flush out all the sediment floating around in the fluid from the worn clutch packs... once that is gone, it doesn't take many miles for the gearbox to finally get stuffed.... so in these extreme cases, it is best not to do anything about the fluid at all...

but since his gearbox is only 60000km past due, he maybe ok with a flush, he maybe not... it depends on how the car was driven before

it is definitely safe to just do a drain and fill however
drain and fill at the recommended intervals never really have reduce lifespans of auto boxes over here in the US... many last over 300000km, which by that time the average car owner would have traded the car in for another anyway

[maztech]

And that's coming from an auto specialist with many years of servicing auto transmissions is it. And only flushing half the oil does a great job does it .

[TheMAN]

yes it was... my senior colleagues who worked many years for ford and chrysler
of course, they didn't mind up selling a flush service since it paid more service hours

those crappy american gearboxes have no drain plug too... have to drop the sump to drain them, making a big mess

but anyway, the worn out clutch material floating around in the fluid is what gave enough friction in the gearbox to allow those neglected transmissions to still barely work and once they were drained out, there wasn't much left of the clutch packs except to wear out some more then slip

[rodhog]

It won't hurt but

I've always done my autos with a correct. Filter - drop the pan and service. Normaly 20,000km service or I think it's 40,000km's for most mazda's. They normally just drop the pan change the filter - tighten- adjust the band and then refit and refill.
I use ot have place in Sydney a auto transmission place - was pre GST about $90 post $110 and before they changed owners $130.

I got Lexus to do the last one I needed done about $320.

Full Flush does not hurt too much. A more common practice done by a Dealership.
Suttons Holden charged me $90 to flush an old Commodore - $50 for labour and $32 fluids rest was Misc and GST.

Don't know what mazda would charge but it's worth just in those Km's to have it adjusted and serviced correctly. Any Auto transmission should be able to do it.

[project.r.racing]

I've been meaning to do mine on the 3 for some time. Just clicked over 80,000km. The transmission service kits only cost $30 +/- $3, so thought I'd do it properly. Pull the tray etc. Although I have no idea when it comes to autos.

The 323 need the fluids replaced also. 2L gearbox + 1L LSD fluid. Much easier. Undo lower bolt, pour away. Redo lower bolt. Undo front bolt, refill. Redo front bolt.

Will need something to pump the fluid into the front hole.

[rodhog]

Not sure on Mazda 3 if the - K frame member is in the way.

On earlier mazdas you were dropping off the k-frame and lower control arm to drop the pan and replace the filter. Mazda must have dropped service kits prices if there only $30 for the Mazda 3. Then again the new ones are not Jatco's from memory

[project.r.racing]

Nothing is in the way of the 3s pan. Very easy to access.

[TheMAN]

it's in the way of the fluid drainage path... but the drain plug is very easily accessible.... just remember to put a plastic bag right over the crossmember before you let the plug out! It'll splash all over the crossmember making a big mess! yes, sacrificing a plastic bag and making it a mess is worth it! It's much harder to clean fluid splattered all over the crossmember and control arm (get high on brake cleaner fumes)!

thank god the BJ doesn't have this problem

[project.r.racing]

yeah i thought about just using a piece of cardboard to block it. i did note when under there yesterday, that the hole was 30mm from that area. thats for the advice.

i had a look at the service kits part numbers. true that BJ and BK/BL are the same?

what fluid should i put in it? how much? do the 100s of bolts holding the pan on need to be torqued to a certain amount, or is tight + 1/8th turn enough?

[rodhog]

Most place use air ratchet so a handjob and a bit is more then enough

[project.r.racing]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260918658...84.m1497.l2649

i brought one of these, will make the job alot easier.

[rodhog]

I got like 3 of them in my garage only used one of them. They were like throwing them away at the Repco they closed in campsie.

They do come in handy for some jobs.

[TheMAN]

Originally Posted by project.r.racing

yeah i thought about just using a piece of cardboard to block it. i did note when under there yesterday, that the hole was 30mm from that area. thats for the advice.

i had a look at the service kits part numbers. true that BJ and BK/BL are the same?

what fluid should i put in it? how much? do the 100s of bolts holding the pan on need to be torqued to a certain amount, or is tight + 1/8th turn enough?

yes, BJ auto box and BK/BL 4 speed auto box the same
5 speed auto is a modified 4 speed box... it's very similar

capacities are about 8 litres for the whole thing... but drain and fill is about 3 litres

[project.r.racing]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mazda-3-A...item2312dc93a1

something like this okay to use? says 5.4L of fluid. if the pan is dropped, is that how much that will need to be replaced?

BJ box is F4A-EL isn't it? Only diff is the "N" for the newer 3 model autos?

[wixy]

Bringing up this old thread (cos I'm only just now getting around to doing the fluid change), and wondering:

1. How important is it to replace the auto transmission filter in the SP20?
2. What's the part number for the filter? Is it the one in the ebay link from the previous post?
3. What's the correct procedure for a flush and change in the SP20?

I'm thinking I'll follow this guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY

At what stage though would I drop the pan and replace the filter?

Really appreciate any advice.