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Old 01-09-2010, 06:47 PM   #1
Ducati848
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Exclamation The Good old rough Idle problem. Same but differnet

Hey Guys,

My Girlfriend has a Ford Laser 96 (Mazda 323) 1.8L auto. It has the good old problem with the Idle where when it starts up cold it does not misfire but once it get hot it starts misfiring and does it more once the Aircon goes on. These are the things I have replaced

-spark plugs
-leads
-Air filter
-Fuel filter
-Rotor and Cap
-cleaned Maf sensor
-cleaned Throttle body
-Inspected vacuum lines
-and the last thing....... the Idle control valve

This is my issue at the moment, I tested the old ICV with a 9v battery to see if the motor works and all that happened was a clicking noise and no movement. So I thought I would go to the wreckers and get a New one. The problem is with this one is that it is doing the same thing and clicking with the 9v battery test. What are other tests could I do to test the Old and newer IAC and do you guys think the new one is faulty?

Before anyone says, yes I know I should take it to a mechanic but this car is not going to get the better of me!!!

Last edited by Ducati848; 02-09-2010 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:25 PM   #2
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Not really a test...
Give it an over night soaking in WD40 or similar. Sounds more like an ignition problem though.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:53 PM   #3
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Yea that's what I thought to start off with but the distributor is firing on all cylinders
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:07 PM   #4
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you sure it's misfire ?

have you run it hot then disconnected the leads one by one to find which one it is. if it goes around the systems I can't remember if it runs dizzy on that mdoel check the cap and rotor. if not you might have ignighter or similar issue.

misfires a min on intake control systems or even emission controls

it's most of the time ignition - timing related - I've seen cars iwth unchange timming belts slip and the cam changes it's position and it will mis fire hot due to massive retardtions or advancement.

then oyu have the fuel side of it. injectors sticking or failing when hot due to air leaks around old o-rings - allows extra air in
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati848 View Post
I tested the old ICV with a 9v battery to see if the motor works and all that happened was a clicking noise and no movement. So I thought I would go to the wreckers and get a New one. The problem is with this one is that it is doing the same thing and clicking with the 9v battery test. What are other tests could I do to test the Old and newer IAC and do you guys think the new one is faulty?

Before anyone says, yes I know I should take it to a mechanic but this car is not going to get the better of me!!!
9V battery does not have enough current to drive the solenoid valve.Thats why you hear a clicking noise with no movement. just use your 12v car battery and momentarily connect and you'll see a movement. basically if it reads 10-12 ohms that means the coil is good and your valve should work unless the shaft is stuck due to buildup of gunk (like cosmo said use WD40 or carby cleaner to clean it). I think both your valves are good and the problem may be ignition or fuel related. Like others said check the dissy cap & rotor and they are not expensive parts either.
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:39 PM   #6
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No worries guys, I forgot to say i've done the cap and rotor already. I think my next area to look at would be the injectors and see how that goes.

Thanks for the answer to the 9v battery test, I've been told that it does work but I did check the the ohms and its sitting at 10ohms, so it must be good. Oh well its all good I paid $10 for a ICV at the wreckers so no loss.
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:50 PM   #7
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Also its only jumpy at around 800RPM and below

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Old 03-09-2010, 05:46 PM   #8
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have you checked the earthing. Heat might causeing earth cable to be a little loose on connection
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Old 13-09-2010, 07:44 PM   #9
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no i haven't cheers
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