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Old 29-03-2006, 05:53 PM   #1
Red Frog
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Slipping *rage* Clutch....grrrr

My clutch is slipping - big time - and i've only done just ova 110,000kms. Would this be right? A mechanic told me that it may not be the clutch, but all that needs to be done is to replace the clutch fluid....but where is this? i was under the impression that the clutch and brake used the same fluid?? if so, this was replaced about 8 weeks ago.

neways, the clutch only really slips changing from 1st to 2nd gear and usually when the engine is cold and i've only been driving for a short period. then when the engine is warm, it's only slips now and again.

any suggestions?? obv the clutch could be replaced, but i'm trying to rule out everything else before forking out $400+ to replace it.

luv a very frustrated, grumpy frog.
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Old 29-03-2006, 07:38 PM   #2
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one good thing about our car having the clutch recalled...we got a new one at 50,000kms..yay
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Old 29-03-2006, 08:11 PM   #3
MitchEG
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hey there

your car seems to be the bizzaro world version of my car. same age, similar k's, same ford interior...and it rattles inside too! At 102500, my cluch judders occasionaly on upslopes, when ive got 4 ppl aboard and other high slip circumstances...seems to be the nature of it, my car was by no means thrashed in its pre-me lifetime. I also have some sort of bearing issue (throwout or input) with mine affecting shiftability which makes me want a new one even more.
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Old 29-03-2006, 08:20 PM   #4
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seems weird a clutch would normally slip all the time if it is buggered an more so wen hot , so it could just need a bit of adjustment an before everyone tells you its hydraulic an has no adjustment , well the little rod thingy that comes out of the cylinder to push the clutch fork on the side of the box has a lock nut with a little bit of adjustment
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Old 29-03-2006, 08:23 PM   #5
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could be a spriggor bearing

I had the same drama's with dad's laser at 155,000kms.

ended up doing the clutch while the box was out.

but hard to believe a $3.50 bearing was the cause of all our drama's

it could be that. hard to say without looking at it

Rob
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Old 31-03-2006, 05:36 PM   #6
Red Frog
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well it just passed rego. mechanic said IF he wanted to be picky, he wouldn't hav let it thru. hmmmm. so new clutch is sumwhere in the pipeline in the next 2 weeks

how much roughly for a standard clutch kit and labour, etc?

btw, for reference: the BJ1/Laser KN does NOT have an adjustable clutch, as it is hydrolic (sp ).
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Old 31-03-2006, 05:47 PM   #7
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i got my clutch looked at after i boosted my car since it wasnt drivable and the reason i had all my slippige was the flywheel was warped and wore out the outer half of the clutch plate... maybe that would be worth looking at
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Old 31-03-2006, 05:50 PM   #8
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maybe...he said it was the pressure plate or sth. but he just reckoned (of course) to replace the whole thing, flywheel and everything. but yeah i'll get a clutch place to look at it and see if we can just replace a part or two, instead of the whole thing.
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Old 31-03-2006, 09:51 PM   #9
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you'll need a clutch kit which entails

Clutch Disc, Clutch Cover and the Release Bearing.

Its also a good idea to have the flywheel machined while it is out

Rob
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Old 31-03-2006, 11:04 PM   #10
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yeah those bearing are a pain in the arse, my mate had to do one in his corona a few weeks back
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:19 AM   #11
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clutch kits on ebay for $150 to suit urs liegh just need sum-one to put it in
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laser the Amazer
you'll need a clutch kit which entails
Clutch Disc, Clutch Cover and the Release Bearing.
Its also a good idea to have the flywheel machined while it is out
Rob
aha! thanks for that rob. i love how u make it nice and simple for me lol it makes it so much easier to know exactly what i need to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by odd12c
clutch kits on ebay for $150 to suit urs liegh just need sum-one to put it in
yeah that's also another option. of buying a HD clutch and ringing around to find who has the cheapest labour to install it. that'd prob save me a lot. the only one i can find on there atm, rod, is for a 1.6L. i need the 1.8L. which one did u see rod? i'll ring fazda on monday to find out how much they sell their clutch kits for. my bet is that mazda will be way cheaper than ford....
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:06 PM   #13
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I'd be looking at daiken/exedy rather than mazda. Bound to be cheaper.

And i have a feeling the 1.6 and 1.8 clutch kits would be the same, as they use the same gearbox. But that'd be a question for ford/mazda
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupewrecht
I'd be looking at daiken/exedy rather than mazda. Bound to be cheaper.

And i have a feeling the 1.6 and 1.8 clutch kits would be the same, as they use the same gearbox. But that'd be a question for ford/mazda
thats is correct, all BJ/BJ2/KN/KQ lasers/astinas had same gearbox/clutches
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejayryry
thats is correct, all BJ/BJ2/KN/KQ lasers/astinas had same gearbox/clutches
Except the SP20s which use the G series gearbox (as opposed to 1.6/1.8 F Series) and therefore different spline
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:45 PM   #16
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yep the sp20 has a bigger diameter clutch , when i put my h/duty exedy into my motor when i turboed , i was going to put my sp20 into the bg but it is bigger an slightly different
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:00 PM   #17
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Hey Rupe do you still have that lightened flywheel and clutch for sale? I'm sure that would go nicely on Red Frog's car!!
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:02 PM   #18
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I do. i was just thinking about bumping the fs post up actually lol
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Old 02-04-2006, 12:52 AM   #19
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An exceedy HD clutch and machined flywheel cost me 400 bucks and we did the install ourself.
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Frog
btw, for reference: the BJ1/Laser KN does NOT have an adjustable clutch, as it is hydrolic (sp ).
Err just to be picky all hydraulic clutches to have limited ways of adjusting them.

The is either done at the slave cylinder end by increasing or decreasing the length of the actuator - but on some cars this is fixed.

However att he pedal box there will be adjustments for sure. The rod that goes from teh pedal to the clutch master cylinder can be adjusted to "move" the takeup point of the clutch. Too low and the clutch won't fully disengage. Too high and the clutch will not clamp properly.

We've been playing around with this in the lynx with good results to make it more friendly to shift (previously it wasn't fully releasing at full pedal depression)..

Admitted this won't help much if the clutch is just stuffed.... but it could be worth checking out - uses a 12mm spanner to loosen the locknut, then turn rod by hand. You'd want to make the rod shorter..)

A.
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