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Old 16-12-2009, 07:00 PM   #21
marcs_sp20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70NYD View Post
under the passangers seat??
or if u wantto get creative on the opposite side of the boot, FRP in nicely
you'd have to relocate the boot light then, but thats not too hard
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Old 16-12-2009, 10:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70NYD View Post
under the passangers seat??
or if u wantto get creative on the opposite side of the boot, FRP in nicely
sounds good bro sweet but does it make the wiring harder?

my first time installing sub nd amp lol
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Old 16-12-2009, 10:54 PM   #23
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not really, as you would be running the power, ground and remote wire to the amp, it has far less to travel apposed to running the amp in the boot.

All you'd need is a longer cable to run from the amp to the sub
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Old 16-12-2009, 11:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcs_sp20 View Post
not really, as you would be running the power, ground and remote wire to the amp, it has far less to travel apposed to running the amp in the boot.

All you'd need is a longer cable to run from the amp to the sub
Thanks mate ill save on less cables to buy lol thanks really apreciate it
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Old 17-12-2009, 09:49 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by robm View Post
its a good sub...but maybe its time for a new sealed box . If you are gonna get a new box cause you don't like droniness, get a small box because they produce more clear and responsive bass than the larger ones . I'll re-edit the how-to to include your info on fleeces.
hey brother was wondering you think its worth me making a fiberglass sub box like yours? i do have the same car but saying u need a new one had me thinking lol
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:13 PM   #26
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nice man where abouts would i be able to get the fiberglass resin?...going to bunning today to have a look
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Old 26-04-2011, 04:01 AM   #27
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is it just the fact I'm using an iPad or is the how to gone?
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Old 27-04-2011, 07:54 PM   #28
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I can't see it either... Has it been removed or something?
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Old 27-04-2011, 07:57 PM   #29
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he never wrote anything if you read the comments under lol
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Old 27-04-2011, 08:15 PM   #30
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Ok now i'm really confused..
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Old 27-04-2011, 08:28 PM   #31
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The user has oddly enough deleted everything from the first post - weird!

Stolen from Mazdas247


Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
Well the wife is driving the P5 now and she wanted the spare tire back in. So I pulled the elaborate system and installed some of the gear from her old car. A PPI 5440 5-channel amp and an Image Dynamics IDQ 10" subwoofer. The amp runs DLS Iridium components up front active (tweets and midbass, no midrange this time) and sends 200w to the subwoofer.

The enclosure I built might be a little small for a 10" but I'm guessing it is a little over 0.5 cuft.

Step 1 was to build the base out of 1/2" MDF. I would have used 3/4" but I had a piece of 1/2 and didn't want to waste it.



Step 2, I added a few layers of double-sided sticky tape to the bottom. This represents the thickness of the carpet flooring in the car. If you skip this step, your box may not fit in with the carpet in place.



Step 3, Mask off the entire piece with painters masking tape.



Step 4, fiberglass! Make sure you build it up so that it is at least 1/4" thick all around, 3/8"-1/2" preferred. You can use cloth glass to start but you need the fiberglass matte to add thickness and stiffness. I precut the matte into 4x4" squares and then mixed about 8 fl oz at a time. Grab cheap plastic painters cups with measure markings on the side so you can accurately measure resin/hardener. Put the hardener in first so it mixes as you poor the resin. If you put it in last, it will stick to your brush as you mix and you won't get a good mix...trust me on that one. That is a priceless tip.



Step 5, After the resin cures pull out your mold and remove as much painters tape as possible (I can never get it all off).




Step 6, Using marker, mark where you want to remove the glass around the edges...I always go at least 1" beyond where I am going to cut. I use a jig saw to cut the excess fiberglass off.



Step 7, Mount your baffle (sorry I didn't photograph building the baffle...it is just a ring a little wider than the subwoofer with a routed edge for stapling fleece to.



At this point in my project my digi cam stopped working. It just took black photos. Yay! But anyway.

Step 8, stretch fleece across the front of the box. Use hot glue to secure it in place around the outside...stretch it is tight as it will go, any loose sections will sag and wrinkle once you fiberglass. Use a staple gun to secure it around the baffle ring.

Step 9, add lots of fiberglass to the fleece but be very careful around the edges...any extra around the edges will have to be sanded/grinded off. Also be careful around the baffle. I designed my baffle with a 1/4" routed edge and made sure no fiberglass made it onto face of the baffle. That way I could just sand it smooth and not have to worry about a jagged mounting face for the subwoofer.

Step 10, add several layers of fiberglass matte on top of the fleece until it is at least 1/4-1/2" thick on the flat areas. Rounded portions are usually stiffer and don't need as much thickness.

Step 11, Sand off the edges with 40-60 grit and an orbital sander...or use a dremel and grinder bit. Sand smooth the face using 40-60 grit and an orbital sander...good luck if you don't have an electric sander.

Step 12, cover with carpet. That's right, if you are using carpet you don't even have to clean up the crappiness of the fiberglass face. It hides everything. If you want to paint or vinyl you've got lots more bondo and sanding to do.

And, now that you read all that, I'll grace you with some crappy camera phone pics I took last night...





It sounds pretty good. I did some initial low-volume tuning for my wife and found a crossover point of 50Hz was best at low levels while 80Hz was better for my listening levels. Below 30Hz it runs out of steam due to the small enclosure size but it is tight and there are not rattles thus far.

Total build time was about...hmm. I don't know maybe 8-12 hours including cure time. It could have been done in one very long day. I spent 4 hours on a saturday, another 3-4 on a sunday (getting the baffle to stay in place was a pain since I only had liquid nails...I'll need something stronger next time), and then another 2 hours the next weekend to sand a little and apply the carpet.


Supplies for the job...

* 1/2" or 3/4" mdf (2x4 sheet from Home Depot is enough)
* Fiberglass resin (large can)
* Fiberglass matte (3-4 packets)
* 5-10 cheapo paint brushes
* 2-3 mixing cups (with 4/8/12/16 oz markings)
* 3 rolls of painters masking tape (2 1" and 1 1/2")
* car wax (spread over tape to help mold release)
* drop cloths and clothes you don't care about
* lots of rubber gloves
* resporator (or hold your breath and work outdoors)
* 1 yard of fleece (pick your favorite pattern!)
* 1 yard of un-backed trunk liner
* 1 can of 3M Super 77 spray adhesive
* hotglue and glue gun
* staples and staple gun
* router and circle jig (or jig saw...but router is better)
* jig saw
* orbital sander with several 40-60 grit sanding discs
* sharp razor blades for cutting carpet
* drill with assorted drill bits
* 3' wooden dowl
* opt. polyfill and sound deadener
* opt. velcro to keep it from moving around
Cheers
Marc
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Old 27-04-2011, 08:45 PM   #32
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Thanks Marc,

That's really cool. I never would have thought of doing that.
I'll definitely have to give this a go when I get a sub.
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Old 28-04-2011, 12:47 PM   #33
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I had a good look on where you can buy the products (resin, hardener & fibreglass sheets), and found you can buy it all from Supercheap! Although not that cheap (its $12/pack for 1m x .5m of f/g sheets), you could buy all the materials for around $80. That doesnt include the final covering, but does give a clear cost of everything.

I want to hopefully do something like this in the coming months, as having the rear strut brace in the way means I cant properly sit a woofer in the car, and the added advantage of space saving has its perks

Cheers
Marc
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Old 08-08-2011, 05:52 PM   #34
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Well I'm back from FGI with some knowledge and supplies to build an enclosure for my 2nd used sub. I will be using less glass and more MDF to make a rough outline then fiberglass and bog the rest. Or i could try making the base out of mdf like above and try glassing the rest...
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001 View Post
Well I'm back from FGI with some knowledge and supplies to build an enclosure for my 2nd used sub. I will be using less glass and more MDF to make a rough outline then fiberglass and bog the rest. Or i could try making the base out of mdf like above and try glassing the rest...
With the shape of the Hardtop boot i found it easier to use mostly MDF.

http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11293
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