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28-04-2011, 01:10 PM | #1 |
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Location: Adelaide, Australia
Car: 07 Subaru Liberty GT Spec B tuned by STi
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Wheel Hop
So I found a problem with my car that's kind of popped up.
If I take off and give it too much gas the wheels don't simply spin smoothly without traction, like they do in every other Mazda fwd I've driven (my car used to spin smoothly too). Now I get a violent shaking of the whole front of the car, as if the wheels/struts are hopping. It's pretty bad in the wet where it's easy to lose traction. Haven't tried doing a burnout for a long time (actually with these tyres at all) but it feels like if I do it'll just start hopping like crazy. I can hard launch fine if that's related... But if I just give it enough to lose traction it hops. Not sure if it's the super grippy tires that have something to do with it or something else entirely. |
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28-04-2011, 01:14 PM | #2 |
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Replaced engine mounts at all?
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28-04-2011, 02:02 PM | #3 |
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Sounds like your rear engine mount is busted, time for some oem units or go awr
Best to do all of them at the same time..
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28-04-2011, 02:49 PM | #4 |
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Awr no longer stock the mounts. I have this problem as well, it's the rear mount. I'm waiting on my corksport mounts to show up from mps garage. I wish they would hurry up :P
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28-04-2011, 02:56 PM | #5 |
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Surprising
I would have thought there was still a market for them. Glad I have a full set As a bit of heads up, there are a few people having trouble with CorkSport at the moment. They are very slow to respond and/or send parts out
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Exhaust: Autoexe headers; Custom midpipe; Racing Beat catback Engine: AWR mounts; Twiggy cams; Custom CAI; RR Racing UDP; Mishimoto rad EMS: Microtech LT-10; J&S Safeguard; Gearbox: MSP LSD; Fidanza flywheel; 5th gear Rims/Suspension: MX-5 rims; Tokico Illuminas; Eibach Pro-kit; Progress RSB; AutoExe STB Exterior: MSP front lip & rear spoiler; Matt V headlights; AutoExe grill; EDM tails Interior: JVC AVX-77; Autometer gauges; DaveBs; B&M shifter Projects to come: Engine rebuild |
28-04-2011, 03:15 PM | #6 |
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Location: Los Angeles, SFV, Ca.
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2 things it could be:
1. the above mentioned motor mounts could be bad. these mounts are terrible and rip easily. if/when you buy new ones you can fill them with bathroom sealer caulk and that helps to stiffen them up and lengthen the life as well. not sure about your area, but the 1997 Mazda 626 (in the US) has the same factory front motor mount, but is much stiffer and already filled from the factory. here its a direct replacement, and its cheap at a local auto store. you might consider looking into that. 2. the other thing, which is well know in these cars, is the dreaded clutch chatter. this is when hot spots have burned themselves into the flywheel/clutch plate, making the clutch engagement feel like huge wheel hop. I went through this for years, finally found it was the flywheel with hot spots. so with a new clutch and resurfaced flywheel, I have a super smooth clutch with no chatter at all, and I have a broken rear mount to boot! lol have a look at this pressure plate. see the hot spots? same deal with the flywheel. hot spots = chatter which feels a lot like wheel. if its not the mounts, I'll bet you its the flywheel. I went through this and sounds all too familiar.
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28-04-2011, 03:26 PM | #7 |
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I checked all my motor mounts yesterday after seeing so many threads about them recently. As far as I can tell they're all good. Never seen a bad one so not sure exactly what I'm looking for. But they're not torn up, frayed, and they're still rubbery.. Don't have that new rubber feel like a set of tyres would have, but not dried and cracked...
Although couldn't get a great look at the rear while the engine was hot, just felt it with my fingers. Will have a better look next time I can. Does that chatter happen in between gears too? If so I think that's what my mum's car has (kind of like a small shudder near the friction point) but my clutch is as smooth as our mazda 6 with 10,000kms, just a little more worn. Thanks for the fast responses guys Keep them coming Could it be anything to do with the struts? Or is it likely a powertrain issue? |
28-04-2011, 04:24 PM | #8 |
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Could also be worn shock absorbers
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28-04-2011, 05:59 PM | #9 |
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I've got front & rear corksport inserts if anyone is keen.
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28-04-2011, 08:25 PM | #10 |
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28-04-2011, 08:38 PM | #11 |
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Thinking my struts are gone, but I honestly can't tell...
Did some research and seems like upgrading mounts is a cure, even if they aren't worn. So gonna cut up some garden hose, wedge it in the mounts do some burnouts, and see if it helps. (a suggestion on a different forum) |
28-04-2011, 09:05 PM | #12 |
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My car has done it since new , I took it back many times under warranty and they did nothing, mine was that bad it caused the exhaust to hit the underside of the car some where and it sounded horrid.
Its a lot better now with new front struts and lowered springs + new engine mounts. |
28-04-2011, 10:23 PM | #13 |
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This might be a combination of things. You can easily tell if your struts are gone as we as if your mounts are gone. Both can cause this when you loose traction so it's a little hard to say anything without physically inspecting it. To check your struts, simply pop your hood, put all your weight on the strut top to compress the spring a little, then let go and watch what the car does. If it comes back up and stays it's fine, but if it oscilates it's fubared you might actually get someone else to compress it for you so you can observe better. For the mounts you can see a few things. The obvious one is that there is a tear externaly. But the less obvious one is to have a close look and see if it has moved relative to the bolt. This might mean either a loose bolt OR a internally torn up mount.
But a combination of the two is the more likely, ESP if the mounts and shocks are the ones that came with the car |
28-04-2011, 11:12 PM | #14 |
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Thanks I'll have a better look on the weekend. I've tried pretty much jumping on the top of the strut but I honestly can't compress it more than a centimetre. I'm only light though, so I'll get some bigger friends onto it My other thought was jacking the car up a little then dropping it as fast as I can....
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29-04-2011, 04:09 PM | #15 |
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Try another one of your friends. You need someone else todo it to really see it properly. And you can also get someone to lift it a few cm by holding the wheel arch, then drop it. If it oscilates down, than up than down it's too much, but if it goes down than comes back to lvl it's fine.
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29-04-2011, 05:10 PM | #16 |
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also check your lower control arm bushes my rear lower control arms are torn sooo bad and the engine mounts are fine
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31-05-2011, 02:19 PM | #17 |
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*bump*
any new updates on this?
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31-05-2011, 03:54 PM | #18 |
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yer mine still does it too not as bad after replacing the mounts but still a spin chilling sound
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31-05-2011, 04:23 PM | #19 |
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Seems to have stopped by itself... Either that or I've just learnt to control the power a bit better. I can spin the wheels (somehow both) and it'll be nice and smooth :S Or going around a corner sometimes I can hear the inside wheel slipping.
Not sure if it's related or not but the click my suspension was making has also stopped... What's worse? When your car makes an unusual sound, or when it stops making that sound? |
20-06-2011, 09:49 PM | #20 |
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Hay daniel by any chance did u find anywere to get replacement strut mounts?
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