Camber Bolts

bathtub · 20-06-2013, 10:33 PM

Hi Guys,

I've just had Whiteline Camber Bolts installed in the rear of my SR2 (SP20, same thing), and I keep getting conflicting information all over the net as to whether they are going to slip or not. I got them installed at a Tyrepower when I was getting an alignment done and I'm running a far dig of camber to get my tyres clearing the guards.

I do drive pretty aggressively on the regular weekend hills runs and I spend a bit of time at the track, but nothing insane! Are these things going to stay where they are or is there any risk of them slipping?

Cheers,
Alex

Clean_Cookie · 20-06-2013, 11:45 PM

Ran them, like many for two years with multiple installations and not a problem. However I'd rather an adjustable top instead. If they we super sketchy they wouldn't be allowed to sell them. Also the torque settings advised are (very low compared to what I usually tightened up the normal bolts (as tight as possible!)) So watch that too.

bathtub · 20-06-2013, 11:52 PM

Got them installed at a shop when I was getting an alignment so I can only presume they torqued them up to spec! Guess I'll just have to keep an eye on them. The guys there are usually pretty good and they seemed to think the whiteline ones were alright. Hopefully they don't move!

TheMAN · 21-06-2013, 04:39 AM

get them twice as tight as factory spec, then they will never slip

bathtub · 21-06-2013, 07:38 AM

Is it worth me retorquing them or should I just trust in what the shop did haha? I don't want to get another alignment! Doubt I'll get them back exactly where they were if I undo them to torque them again, I don't have a camber gauge.

Clean_Cookie · 21-06-2013, 07:46 AM

Just use a torque wrench to see what they are done up to. If you do them up too tight or loose you can strip/squash the spikes. Mat had one slip but it wasn't disastrous. Maybe if you're pushing to the limit in an apex and it slips to positive camber but its not worth worrying about. Just enjoy it.

bathtub · 21-06-2013, 08:01 AM

Shall doo! I'm a stresser haha. What torque value should I be looking for?

Cosmo Dude · 21-06-2013, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bathtub

Shall doo! I'm a stresser haha. What torque value should I be looking for?

Using a 600mm bar you should give at least a 3 second grunt when tightening them.

bathtub · 21-06-2013, 09:54 PM

Far out, that's pretty tight haha

I'm doubting more and more that the shop has put that much torque into the bolts..

Clean_Cookie · 21-06-2013, 10:01 PM

That's excessive. You'd be suprised how little force is required on any nut. Look up the PDF on whitelines website.

bathtub · 21-06-2013, 10:04 PM

Sounds like a hell of a lot to me.

Whiteline lists the torque required as 73Nm (approx 54 ft lbs). I'm pretty confident that they would have torqued them to whiteline's specs, I just want to make sure that it's enough. Maybe I should just get over it and drive the bloody thing haha!

Exodus323 · 23-06-2013, 06:40 PM

Just tighten them like any bolt make it tight,
Camber bolts are the top bolts the other lower bolt is the load bearing bolt, as long as they are tight you will be fine, chill

bathtub · 23-06-2013, 09:21 PM

Haha, they seem to be holding up fine. Thanks guys!

Exodus323 · 25-06-2013, 03:58 PM

Good to hear.

rodhog · 25-06-2013, 07:02 PM

IT's not commonly done but check them out often.

Pedders whiteline and some others found around simple bolt and some of the other units are quite poor in quality and reason to get them checked. Pedders use to sell a top quality product.

As mentioned strut tops are best. Hold and last longer.

The only other product which I understand is out of production and replaced by strut top . Is the old K-MAC camber bolt adjustment. If one ever finds that for your car and you don't want the harshness of pillow ball mounts of similar with strut tops. These were the best things around. The big difference to the normal camber bolts is bolt is better quality and the plates on the end. The common course for track cars was to have this welded on to the strut top. It was also often to see them on rally cars tack weld the pivot position washer in place. This allowed you to change springs or pull it apart put it back -put in your driveshaft replacement and no need to worry about camber re-set.

Oh be carefull on them whiteline bolts seen many stripped. the Tighten the F out of it or similar has been done on many cars. Especially important if you buy them from E-bay.

20-06-2013, 10:33 PM	#1
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Camber Bolts Hi Guys, I've just had Whiteline Camber Bolts installed in the rear of my SR2 (SP20, same thing), and I keep getting conflicting information all over the net as to whether they are going to slip or not. I got them installed at a Tyrepower when I was getting an alignment done and I'm running a far dig of camber to get my tyres clearing the guards. I do drive pretty aggressively on the regular weekend hills runs and I spend a bit of time at the track, but nothing insane! Are these things going to stay where they are or is there any risk of them slipping? Cheers, Alex

20-06-2013, 11:45 PM	#2
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	Ran them, like many for two years with multiple installations and not a problem. However I'd rather an adjustable top instead. If they we super sketchy they wouldn't be allowed to sell them. Also the torque settings advised are (very low compared to what I usually tightened up the normal bolts (as tight as possible!)) So watch that too. __________________ Worklog

21-06-2013, 04:39 AM	#4
TheMAN Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: USA Car: . Posts: 2,623	get them twice as tight as factory spec, then they will never slip __________________ Protege FAQ, the best 323/Protege/Mazda3 resource enjoyed worldwide for 10 years

21-06-2013, 07:46 AM	#6
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	Just use a torque wrench to see what they are done up to. If you do them up too tight or loose you can strip/squash the spikes. Mat had one slip but it wasn't disastrous. Maybe if you're pushing to the limit in an apex and it slips to positive camber but its not worth worrying about. Just enjoy it. __________________ Worklog

21-06-2013, 10:01 PM	#10
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	That's excessive. You'd be suprised how little force is required on any nut. Look up the PDF on whitelines website. __________________ Worklog

20-06-2013, 11:52 PM	#3
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Got them installed at a shop when I was getting an alignment so I can only presume they torqued them up to spec! Guess I'll just have to keep an eye on them. The guys there are usually pretty good and they seemed to think the whiteline ones were alright. Hopefully they don't move!

21-06-2013, 07:38 AM	#5
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Is it worth me retorquing them or should I just trust in what the shop did haha? I don't want to get another alignment! Doubt I'll get them back exactly where they were if I undo them to torque them again, I don't have a camber gauge.

21-06-2013, 08:01 AM	#7
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Shall doo! I'm a stresser haha. What torque value should I be looking for?

21-06-2013, 09:54 PM	#9
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Far out, that's pretty tight haha I'm doubting more and more that the shop has put that much torque into the bolts..

21-06-2013, 10:04 PM	#11
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Sounds like a hell of a lot to me. Whiteline lists the torque required as 73Nm (approx 54 ft lbs). I'm pretty confident that they would have torqued them to whiteline's specs, I just want to make sure that it's enough. Maybe I should just get over it and drive the bloody thing haha!

23-06-2013, 06:40 PM	#12
Exodus323 AstinaGT Regular Join Date: May 2005 Location: Western Australia Car: BA Astina Turbo Posts: 299 View Photos By: Exodus323	Just tighten them like any bolt make it tight, Camber bolts are the top bolts the other lower bolt is the load bearing bolt, as long as they are tight you will be fine, chill __________________ Peace Out (^_^)\|\| Paul

23-06-2013, 09:21 PM	#13
bathtub Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Adelaide, Australia Car: Ford Laser SR2 Posts: 105	Haha, they seem to be holding up fine. Thanks guys!

25-06-2013, 03:58 PM	#14
Exodus323 AstinaGT Regular Join Date: May 2005 Location: Western Australia Car: BA Astina Turbo Posts: 299 View Photos By: Exodus323	Good to hear. __________________ Peace Out (^_^)\|\| Paul

25-06-2013, 07:02 PM	#15
rodhog Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sydney Lakemba Car: mx-6 626 Gs300 Maz2 was 95 KF BA-HT Posts: 2,024 View Photos By: rodhog	IT's not commonly done but check them out often. Pedders whiteline and some others found around simple bolt and some of the other units are quite poor in quality and reason to get them checked. Pedders use to sell a top quality product. As mentioned strut tops are best. Hold and last longer. The only other product which I understand is out of production and replaced by strut top . Is the old K-MAC camber bolt adjustment. If one ever finds that for your car and you don't want the harshness of pillow ball mounts of similar with strut tops. These were the best things around. The big difference to the normal camber bolts is bolt is better quality and the plates on the end. The common course for track cars was to have this welded on to the strut top. It was also often to see them on rally cars tack weld the pivot position washer in place. This allowed you to change springs or pull it apart put it back -put in your driveshaft replacement and no need to worry about camber re-set. Oh be carefull on them whiteline bolts seen many stripped. the Tighten the F out of it or similar has been done on many cars. Especially important if you buy them from E-bay.