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Old 11-11-2015, 12:15 PM   #10821
93BGASTINAGT
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Location: Hawthorn, Victoria
Car: Mazda 323 Astina SP 1993
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Put in new/old radio and equalizer

The new equalizer I bought from DIY autos needs a refurbishment.

But I managed to notice that on the new radio the buttons light up at night.

Which means that I can see then while driving.
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Old 28-08-2018, 12:14 PM   #10822
SoPowerful20
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Car: 2002 SP20
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Oil change, Oil filter and clean out the pod filter. re oil her up.
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Old 05-09-2020, 08:21 PM   #10823
paulmac
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Join Date: Aug 2015
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Car: Astina BJ auto
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5 year Astina BA & 6 year Astina BG review.

It's been a while since i posted anything. When I bought the BA Astina five years ago, it needed some work. I changed the dizzy as the coil inside it was bung, and had a mechanic, who turned out to be a shonk put a new timing belt, and, allegedly, new oil seals in it. (he didnt). It badly needed all its engine/trans mounts renewed, which I did myself, except the rear mount. A real pig. New to the car I took the easy way out and filled the stuffed mount with sikaflex 252. It has lasted 5 years but now the remains of the original rubber has died and gone to Bush heaven. I now know that to get the mount nuts the cross member has to be lowered, but even the front nut, which I can get to, is on so tight I cant shift it even 6 feet of additional leverage on my socket wrench. Not in the mood for taking the dash to bits to take the heater out to cut holes in the firewall to get to the back two nuts (Im an animal, except animals are nice), today I succeeded in removing most of the sikaflex and original rubber from inside the metal part of the mount. I have two photos of progress to date. the mount with the rubber 99% removed. still working on it. https://nuclearhistory.wordpress.com/img_0264/ The three nuts from hell (or the Jaguar gearbox mount Far Eastern Division, apparently) Ive given up on removing them short of nicking a nuclear warhead and detonating it directly below the offending the nuts. I have a short reach 17mm universal socket (universal joint integral with the socket) to see if I can get it in there out of interest) and I have ordered a deep reach large offset 17 mm ring spanner, with the same interest, though neither of these will likely work. However, I measured the internal diameter of the circular hole in the metal portion of the mount - I make it about 65mm. or so, give a mm or three. And I spent a few hours looking on ebay for new polyurethane bush inserts with a diameter of 65mm. I found that particular Camry poly mount insert is 65mm in diameter and though the size of the crush tube and the width of the insert are not given, Im going to give it a go. I intend, when it gets here, to glue it into the metal part of the mount with sikaflex 252 (hence I dont need absolutely accuracy, this is an eccentric and lazy and cheap way to experiment. It may not work. Do not copy me. ) Apart from that the BA has served me well these last five years. Time flies when you are old and cheap. In the beginning, the BA lights were bad and experimented with cheap Chinese leds and found that four sided ones worked fine, so long as they were focussed properly (by moving them in and out of the stock projector until the light pattern on the garage door was right. The standard depth of seating of these cheap Leds is way out, and I used high temp silicone to glue them into place once I had them focussed. Then I discovered (by getting another set of headlights from the UPull it wreckers ) that not all BA headlights are bad. Must be just my model or something. And that improved things. The leds worked even better. However, I did invest in a decent Hid kit, using Vikom Hid globes of the right type, and well they just go in and are properly focussed to start with and work fine. So that's that. I did try chinese projectors but really, that's a mistake. A decent set of standard BA headlights work fine . Still cant work out what is wrong with the ones that came with my car originally. No other real dramas. Pity about that rear mount. Part of the problem is I spent most of my life driving air cooled VWs and I could work on those almost without thinking, which is fine by me. Come to the BA and well, Im a babe in the woods. However, in contrast, with the BG, I fitted new brakes, and a full set of engine mounts when I bought the car, even though I learned as I did the jobs. Simple. So much easier than the BA. The BA has been no trouble and still goes well. I put a new set of front struts on it and that wasnt hard. Largely because I had a decent set of spring compressors from when I had a VW Superbug. The BG has its advantages for sure. I dont know how long I will keep the BA, it has heaps of blow by (which I cope with by an additional breather hose to the air box and Im about to fit an oil catch can as it gets missy when Im thrashing it on the highway) . It depends on whether I can fix that rear mount successfully or not. I aint taking the cross member down. I refuse. Dummest engine mount locating nut placement I have seen in my entire life. But that is the only thing I dont like about it. Maybe Ill find a cheap Miata. I dunno. It was worn out and flogged when I bought the BA. the previous owner used thongs (the rubber footwear) for the front engine mount. The idiot abused it and I bought for cheap for Im a tight arse. The worn valve stems seals have been kept under control with that veal stem seal repair in a bottle ($70 each). every oil change. Never buy a used car that you havent not started from dead cold first. I did. Like an idiot. But its still going and the chemical is still working 5 years later.
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Old 21-10-2020, 02:48 AM   #10824
mikestanley464
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Car: Toyato, suzuki
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TRp

Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.
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