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Old 05-05-2005, 11:12 PM   #101
Mark.T
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I've not noticed much difference having added the rear strut brace, but I'm sure it will let it's presence know when I push the car! I'm having 'issues' trying to get a front strut brace.

I've done the bushes (not caster though), camber kit, springs, shocks and wheels. Every mod just made the car handle better and better!!

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Old 06-05-2005, 12:25 AM   #102
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i didn't think whiteline had a rear strut brace??

be good if they do...
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Old 06-05-2005, 04:07 AM   #103
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Yeah its for the hatch only (in BA that I know of) but I am wondering how much cut and fit will be necessary for the hardtop. I might go and have a look at Andys fitment to his and then decide how plausable it will be in mine. As thats all I am missing from the catalogue bar the spring/struts. And every little bit that will help on the track will be greeted with open arms
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Old 06-05-2005, 07:18 AM   #104
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The parcel shelf on a BA h/top acts as a strut brace and is more integrated than what you'd put into a hatch. I'd had a look on my ol' h/top and the amount of strength you would need to cut out in order to add a strut brace would IMO be counter productive.
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Old 08-05-2007, 05:06 PM   #105
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I just became a member of the Swaybar club last friday and god is it GREAT !! Wish I installed it when I first bought my ASTy!!!

just one question to all the BA hardtop drivers, after the first fitment we found the swaybar to slide right across to hit the right rear strut. We called whiteline only to find we had to buy a Locking kit (!) which was two more bushes and ring clips.... I have noticed that the bar has still shifted about 1 inch, what have you guys experienced and found as effective remedies?
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Old 08-05-2007, 07:37 PM   #106
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If you replace their pathetic snap clamps with proper clamps that you can tighten right up, that should be your best bet.

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Old 08-05-2007, 08:04 PM   #107
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If you replace their pathetic snap clamps with proper clamps that you can tighten right up, that should be your best bet.

Gav.
If it's what I think you are talking about I used hose clamps around bits of rubber on either sides of mounting brackets and it stops it sliding around. I think I have some pictures somewhere.



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Old 08-05-2007, 08:38 PM   #108
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That will do it! I got the Whiteline clamp kit, and in classiqué Whiteline style they dissappointed me with the most POS friggin clamps you can get, now I am still needing to buy proper hose clamps like yours. Frontbums... These days I look at Nolathane, Pedders and Noltec before I even bother to check if Whiteline have a product, although it may still come down to cost where there's no advantage on the other brands...

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Old 08-05-2007, 09:00 PM   #109
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That will do it! I got the Whiteline clamp kit, and in classiqué Whiteline style they dissappointed me with the most POS friggin clamps you can get, now I am still needing to buy proper hose clamps like yours. Frontbums... These days I look at Nolathane, Pedders and Noltec before I even bother to check if Whiteline have a product, although it may still come down to cost where there's no advantage on the other brands...

Gav.
And Whitline customer service bites the big one. If you can find a similar product elsewhere then IMHO give whiteline the finger.
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Old 08-05-2007, 09:04 PM   #110
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And Whitline customer service bites the big one. If you can find a similar product elsewhere then IMHO give whiteline the finger.
I have a Pedders SportsRyder strutbrace on the TX3, and the tie-downs are so much better quality than that flaking/rusting pig steel that Whiteline uses... I'm going to use Pedders again for the rear strutbrace when the time comes.

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Old 08-05-2007, 09:25 PM   #111
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Thanks for your comments guys.... its exactly what I am talking about.... And "customer service", I wonder if Whiteline management even knows how to spell it.. I had to wait about 3 weeks for the bar and then a further 2 weeks for the "locking kit", had I of known I would have used Ripper's idea.
to be sure, I might put the hose clamps on the outside of the swaybar mounts as well.
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Old 08-05-2007, 09:25 PM   #112
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for the rear swaybar...i have tightened my D bush brackets up pretty tight...should i have done this or not...ie: the poly D bushes are kinda sqeezing out the side of the clamp...and hell doesnt a 22mm swaybar make a difference to the roll centre of the car....has anyone else looked at different roll centres when they lowered their cars or just gone on aesthetic use? i just finished reading this complex guide on suspension with my latest issue of Autosalon and its wicket.....really technical and easy to understand...
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:06 PM   #113
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so what does stopping the swaybar from sliding around do?
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:58 PM   #114
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A 20mm swaybar that slides from side to side is prolly only as good as an 18mm swaybar that doesn't. When they shift from side to side they aren't working like they should be, plus they are loading up the uni-joints in the endlinks too...

Gav.
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:12 PM   #115
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yes, but stopping it sliding probably increases the chance of breaking the endlink tabs on the struts too, hard to replace...
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:26 PM   #116
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But you get the heavy swaybar for the challenge of breaking your endlinks! And yes, endlink tabs are not fun to break...

Nice box,
Gav.

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Old 09-05-2007, 12:02 AM   #117
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arn't they meant to move? the whole "sway" bar thing?

if you've seen them in motion you'll see them tying the left movement to the right movement

but they shouldn't move so much that they scrub!!
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:44 AM   #118
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arn't they meant to move? the whole "sway" bar thing?

if you've seen them in motion you'll see them tying the left movement to the right movement

but they shouldn't move so much that they scrub!!
they are meant to move, but only in a twisting motion. As one side of the suspension moves differently to the other side, or even when going over say a speed hump, the sway bar should twist in the D mounts. It shouldn't move side to side. As then it starts to put uneven pressure on one side of your suspension. Even my factory BJ11 rear swaybar had the clamps either side of the D bracket.
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:45 AM   #119
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That will do it! I got the Whiteline clamp kit, and in classiqué Whiteline style they dissappointed me with the most POS friggin clamps you can get, now I am still needing to buy proper hose clamps like yours. Frontbums... These days I look at Nolathane, Pedders and Noltec before I even bother to check if Whiteline have a product, although it may still come down to cost where there's no advantage on the other brands...

Gav.
Hey Gav, they are expensive hose clamps!!!
About $1.50 each from super cheap I think!!!!
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:33 AM   #120
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Oh well, atleast I have nice gay matching yellow jambstop bushings...
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