HID install for BA Astina H1 version.

project.r.racing · 09-03-2011, 09:21 PM

Whom has done it?

The H1 kits come with 2 wires with 2 spades on the end for the positive and negetive. But the OEM loom has a female spade plug and a clamp on the outside for the other.

What do to? Solder one to the other clamp? Other solutions?

Clean_Cookie · 10-03-2011, 06:58 AM

Solder can vibrate and crack. I used what we call BP connectors. Tunnel screw connectors is the proper name. Strip, twist,screw they connector on and I put it all in a junction box...

Both sides as I didn't trust those flimsy connectors

70NYD · 10-03-2011, 10:22 AM

doesnt the OEM one have a male spade on the housing?
my astina used just the spade connectors for ~3 years (same ones, same bulbs, nothing blew and it was all from china

)

Clean_Cookie · 10-03-2011, 10:26 AM

I've noticed the Chinese ones from 2-3 years ago were higher quality than today's cheapies. My $280 set has outlasted 2 cheap sets of bulbs and ballast. The colour match have been terrible in the $35 kits! That said I'd still recommend them.

70NYD · 10-03-2011, 11:08 AM

yes the ones iv bought were extreamly high quality compared to the later ones. if you look at my low beam ballasts, the housing is machined/cast aluminum, where as my high beams the housing looks like its wrapped in very thin chrome plated sheet steel as it bends under ants footsteps

RedLineResident · 10-03-2011, 11:27 AM

I've opted for a kit from the state...
Ended up being around $80 delivered but colours have been spot on, and everything has nice fittings, and clips and doesn't seem to be cheap and nasty, which was a very pleasant surprise.

project.r.racing · 10-03-2011, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70NYD

doesnt the OEM one have a male spade on the housing?

no - as per 1st post.

70NYD · 10-03-2011, 05:38 PM

oh. my bad. my low and high are H3 and H1 and the oem looms both had female spades for low and high. Brain fart

mikey_something · 10-03-2011, 08:07 PM

Id try an make something secure out of connectors cause as mentioned solder can shatter.

Cosmo Dude · 10-03-2011, 08:22 PM

Your enemy with electrical joints is oxidisation. A tight twist joint soldered and heat shrinked won't fail. As long as you solder correctly

remember solder (not ROHS) is lead based which is pliable.

09-03-2011, 09:21 PM	#1
project.r.racing Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: n/a Car: n/a Posts: 10,929	HID install for BA Astina H1 version. Whom has done it? The H1 kits come with 2 wires with 2 spades on the end for the positive and negetive. But the OEM loom has a female spade plug and a clamp on the outside for the other. What do to? Solder one to the other clamp? Other solutions?

10-03-2011, 06:58 AM	#2
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	Solder can vibrate and crack. I used what we call BP connectors. Tunnel screw connectors is the proper name. Strip, twist,screw they connector on and I put it all in a junction box... Both sides as I didn't trust those flimsy connectors __________________ Worklog

10-03-2011, 10:22 AM	#3
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	doesnt the OEM one have a male spade on the housing? my astina used just the spade connectors for ~3 years (same ones, same bulbs, nothing blew and it was all from china ) __________________

10-03-2011, 10:26 AM	#4
Clean_Cookie obsessed-incomplete-broke Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: BA Hardtop/Hatch Posts: 5,441	I've noticed the Chinese ones from 2-3 years ago were higher quality than today's cheapies. My $280 set has outlasted 2 cheap sets of bulbs and ballast. The colour match have been terrible in the $35 kits! That said I'd still recommend them. __________________ Worklog

10-03-2011, 11:08 AM	#5
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	yes the ones iv bought were extreamly high quality compared to the later ones. if you look at my low beam ballasts, the housing is machined/cast aluminum, where as my high beams the housing looks like its wrapped in very thin chrome plated sheet steel as it bends under ants footsteps __________________

10-03-2011, 11:27 AM	#6
RedLineResident Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Car: BA V6 Hardtop 5 Speed & 97 Prelude VTIR Posts: 1,518 View Photos By: RedLineResident	I've opted for a kit from the state... Ended up being around $80 delivered but colours have been spot on, and everything has nice fittings, and clips and doesn't seem to be cheap and nasty, which was a very pleasant surprise. __________________ "Amateurs practice until they get it right." "Professionals practice until they can't get it wrong."

10-03-2011, 05:38 PM	#8
70NYD Veni, vidi, vici Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane Car: 1996 BA Hatch & 2005 RX8 Posts: 4,911 View Photos By: 70NYD	oh. my bad. my low and high are H3 and H1 and the oem looms both had female spades for low and high. Brain fart __________________ Last edited by 70NYD; 10-03-2011 at 05:44 PM.

10-03-2011, 08:07 PM	#9
mikey_something Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: NSW Car: 1998 Toyota Supra 3.0L Twin Turbo Posts: 1,413 View Photos By: mikey_something	Id try an make something secure out of connectors cause as mentioned solder can shatter. __________________ 1996 Mazda 323 Astina BA Hatch 1.8L - No Longer Mine

10-03-2011, 08:22 PM	#10
Cosmo Dude コスモ Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Location: Vic Car: Mazda '95 Astina I4, '86 B2K and '10 3 MZR-CD Posts: 7,888 View Photos By: Cosmo Dude	Your enemy with electrical joints is oxidisation. A tight twist joint soldered and heat shrinked won't fail. As long as you solder correctly remember solder (not ROHS) is lead based which is pliable. __________________ My 'stina Hatch

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