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21-08-2007, 10:17 AM | #1 |
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should I be able to see my driveshaft ?
was under the car last night because my neutral switch has died. Thats another story.
Anyway I notice that I can see an exposed section of my driveshaft, where it meets the bracket and then onto the extension bar to reach the gearbox. See the attached pics. See how the shiny greasy bit is exposed and the ring is not against the bracket. Is that normal !? It doesn't feel loose at all, there's no sideways movement. Last year I had the CV boots replaced. I just wonder if it hasnt been put back together properly, or if something else has happened to push that wheel further out. |
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21-08-2007, 11:41 AM | #2 |
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doesnt look normal...taken it to a CV/Driveshaft specialist?
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21-08-2007, 11:42 AM | #3 |
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I had the CV boots replaced last year.
I wonder if either a) they did a bodgy job b) the wheel has moved outwards, pulling the driveshaft with it. |
21-08-2007, 11:52 AM | #4 |
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Looks to be too much of a gap between the pale gold cover on the CV and the bracket... from memory that cover should butt up to the bracket
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21-08-2007, 11:56 AM | #5 |
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yeah it should be...
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21-08-2007, 01:03 PM | #6 |
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I thought so.
thanks and damn I wonder how long its been like that. Is there an 'easy fix' ? Is the length of this thing adjustable ? |
21-08-2007, 01:09 PM | #7 |
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Hahaha adjustable by cuttin mine had 15mm cut off of it...
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21-08-2007, 01:13 PM | #8 |
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Nah, not really adjustable. It's not a major thing, as the hub holds it in place...but being exposed like that wouldn't really be good for the bearing in there.
But i'd take it back to the place that did it and ask what the deal is! I'd suspect they might have used BG ones (as BA F series ones have a different spline so couldn't be that) or they've just stuffed up and haven't pushed it so the circlip has locked into place.
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21-08-2007, 01:24 PM | #9 |
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not going back to Type Factory ever !!
one day my car will be perfect. But then I'll be bored with it ! Am probably going to change my clutch in the near future and take a look at why the neutral switch isn't working. I think to do that I need to remove the driveshafts - and so will take a look at fixing this at that time. Until then I might just look up in the service manuals to see if there anything I can do. Is this shaft in 2 pieces, joined inside that bracket or is it one long shaft ? Last edited by Dogo; 21-08-2007 at 01:26 PM. |
21-08-2007, 01:39 PM | #10 |
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If you're lacking gearbox oil, your neutral switch wont work. every time i had the box out i'd wonder why it didn't work for a while until the contacts got coated in oil (as odd as that sounds). You can just unscrew the neutral switch from the back (i think it's the back) of the gearbox...but i'm not sure that that will tell you if it's working or not.
that shaft is 2 pieces - the intermediate shaft which goes into the box and the right driveshaft which goes between the intermediate and the wheel hub
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21-08-2007, 02:06 PM | #11 |
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interesting, thanks.
Do I need to drain the oil before unscrewing the switch ? Oil was changed recently but appears to be leaking mildly through the gasket between gbox and engine. |
21-08-2007, 02:17 PM | #12 |
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I think so, as the switch is at the back down low (from memory!)
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21-08-2007, 02:51 PM | #13 |
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hmm, dumb question, but what is the neutral switch?
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21-08-2007, 02:58 PM | #14 |
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The neutral switch is a switch in the gearbox which is triggered when the gearbox is in neutral.
The ECU uses the clutch switch ( triggered when the clutch pedal is pushed ) and the neutral switch signals to determine if the engine and the gears are connected. Mainly I guess for idling? The wires are joined - so it doesnt know or care which has been triggered. With the neutral switch not working my car is idling at about 1300rpm , and drops to normal if I push the clutch in. Last night I confirmed the switch is not working by testing the wires coming out of it with a multimeter. ( which is why I was under the car ) Last edited by Dogo; 21-08-2007 at 03:00 PM. |
21-08-2007, 03:08 PM | #15 |
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the neutral switch would be those 2 wires connecting to something (the switch?) on the back of the box approx 2/3 of the way down? ok i'll have to remember what it does. thanks
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21-08-2007, 03:44 PM | #16 |
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Oh wait, i'm thinking of the reverse switch! whoops!
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21-08-2007, 04:41 PM | #17 |
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reverse switch is near the filler hole
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21-08-2007, 05:05 PM | #18 |
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The length of the shaft isn't fixed like in the rear of an XJ Jag or type 1 VW. the shafts have some play to cope with suspension going up and down where the shaft would rather travel on an arc.
You may be able to just push it into place it should only be held in with a simple clip in the splines.
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21-08-2007, 07:29 PM | #19 |
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as above in reference to the movement. when you have your CV boots done. my guess is they didn't use grease on the splines in the wheel hubs. causing them to lock into place without movement and pull outwards slightly.
it's what dodgy mechanics do to save 15 cents and 15 seconds of time. when i did my lsd, i had the same problem - mine were so stuck in there that we had to heat the hubs with a welding torch to expand the hub to allow movement. can you say, "busted wheel bearings?" ryan |
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